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· Banned Since 2003
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just want to make sure my 96 GTS is in the acceptable range.

The gauge fluctuates from the first mark past the 190 and goes up about an 3/16 inch or so and then comes back down when the fan kicks on. This is in about 70 Deg air. I am guessing it ranges between 200 and 210?

My 400 HP small block Chevy in my 69 Camaro runs much cooler so I was wondering if this is normal operating temp.

Thanks
 

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Keep a sharp eye on it Toby!! I've had to sell Vipers because of this very thing! I've been stranded on the side of the road because of overheating issues. With fluid "gushing" out from underneath my Viper.

1st you need to buy a Service Manual from Dodge. The ones the Viper Techs use. You get a discount with your VCA meembership and they can be found on ebay as well. You'll see exactly where the normal operating temp is for your year/model GTS. Which is hot naturally btw. You may want to take your Viper in to have it serviced specifically for this problem as well. It may need to be burped as air/bubbles may be trapped in the line. One of the myriad of stories Dodge told me was that the plastic impellar in the water pumps were defective (because of the fact they were plastic...go figure) thus making the Vipers overheat. They said that they dropeed the company that they were using and have since changed the impellar. And all new water pumps had the upgraded impellar. That didn't work for me btw. You may also want to change your radiator. You may want to upgrade your thermostat as well. However you will see no difference in temperatures unless your wide open on the highway with the thermostat upgrade. Some say you will but I'm here to tell you, unless your on the freeway, you won't. Normal driving, stop & go, and it's the exact same as the factory t-stat. Adding water-wetter is a good way to lower the temps. Good for several degrees. Also remember the "turning the heat on" trick you should've learned reading your owners manual. Or was that on the video that came with the Viper? Should be in both.

Anyway, hopefully you won't be driving around in the summer time, and notice that your AC is suddenly blowing jet hot air, only to look at your temp gague for it to be in the red. Good luck.
 

· RIP - Gone But Not Forgotten
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Sorry Trey, I missed it in there. /images/graemlins/freak3.gif Must be going blind.

Smoke, I have used the stuff before it's just I have not seen it mentioned here before. Eye thing again. /images/graemlins/freak3.gif

I know that ultimately the thermostat controls the min. water temp but the Water Wetter helps be eliminating the hot spots.
Some funky stuff, but hey, it works.

Edit: is that you Trey or Smoke? Now you got me realy confused. :doh:



 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the info but I don't think there is a problem (is there?)...I just wanted to see what the normal operating temps were.

I sat in an E-check line last Saturday for almost 20 min. and the gauge never went farther than when I drive the car. I heard the fan click on and the temps came right back down too about 200.

Also...both tanks have fluid in them.


I thought if you had a air pocket the car would overheat?


I am just not used to the temp moving around so much I guess.

I will do the Water Wetter thing, thermostat for good measure and a good flush. The VCA has a great article on burping and doing a flush correctly.

Thanks
 

· Schadenfreude Connoisseur
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Jerome Sparich said:
I am not sure of your cooling systems capacity but you might want to use two bottles of Water Wetter in it. Maybe Trey or Smoke(Trey again) could answer this.
Its trey and Smoke, and trey, but this time its really smoke. I had some water wetter in my cooling system, doenst really help noticeably. The best bet is to do a 180 degree thermostat and drill a couple of holes in it. That REALLY lowers the running temp noticeably.
 

· RIP - Gone But Not Forgotten
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Yes a lower temp thermostat will help more, but the W.W. will help with all those localized hot spots. It does this by breaking the surface tension in the water allowing it to adhere to the metal and not form air pockets.

The thermostat dictates the lowest temp the engine will operate at. You can not run cooler than the thermostat because it will just close until it reaches its opening point.


How in the hell am I supposed to know who I am talking to, Trey or Smoke. /images/graemlins/freak3.gif

Man you guys are too much /images/graemlins/laughing.gif



 

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Toby,

My solution was to crank up the water % to 75, and run 25% glycol, distilled water of course. Ideally 100% water would be the best, leaving internals to corrode. 25% was the min. I found on the net to still have all the anticorrosive properties, although not popular in the Viper crowd, I didn't feel anything was Viper specific as far as % of each. Luckily were not the only punks with alot of alum. internals.

In addition to that kicked in 2 bottles of Water Wetter, as per some dug up threads on the morgue.

I was concerned when I first bought my 97, and gave everything a once over, and did the above for good measure.

Of course within 2 weeks of buying my car, and before any of the above, I puked out the timing chain gasket cover, pissing coolant everywhere. Had to pull the oilpan and rehit that as the front of the cover extends down into the front bolts of the pan, something like 40 of them, nice.

Think I drive a little harder than the old owner, test drove it for a few hours (him driving) when I bought it and no problems.

Talk about wondering what the hell I got myself into, dropping $300 in gaskets and under the car wrenching the thing on maybe the 2nd tank of gas, not good.
Chalk it up to a bonding experience for now, so far so good going into year 2!

take care,

If you happen to agree with any of my advice, a nice kicker is having to flush in the fall pre storage with 60/40 ish glycol for a positive winter safe mix. Come spring you have to flush the rad out and rehit with the summer mix, forcing coolant maintenance on a yearly deal. A good idea with any car, moreso with this finicky thing.

Good god, my first tech reply on the alley, might move my chair a little to the right. :rofl:
 

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Nice post Ryan. Lots of advice in there.
 

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TobyT said:
I just want to make sure my 96 GTS is in the acceptable range.

The gauge fluctuates from the first mark past the 190 and goes up about an 3/16 inch or so and then comes back down when the fan kicks on. This is in about 70 Deg air. I am guessing it ranges between 200 and 210?

My 400 HP small block Chevy in my 69 Camaro runs much cooler so I was wondering if this is normal operating temp.

Thanks
TobyT,
Wait till July!didn't like driving my viper in traffic,it would get so hot i'd have to shut off the a/c! /images/graemlins/redface.gif driving a black viper w/out a/c sucks! /images/graemlins/cry.gif
 
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