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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
a screw, about a 1/4" with a phillips head on it???????? just got the car a few weeks ago, so this is my first oil change? few other questions about maintanence. i know the car takes 10 qts, but i only used 9.5 and it is to the full line. also, brake fluid is a bit low, what is the factory filled with, Mopar? what can i use, any recomendations? next, i dont have a owners manuel. the coolant makes me nervous if i dont change it out every year, the car has now 16k miles. the service manual that was faxed to me from Steve, (thanks Steve) says not to change it till 51k miles. what are ur thoughts on that?

thanks u all,
chan
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yea that screws got me a bit concerned. still under warranty, but i just got the car, only 16k miles on it. ill take it in next week, after the rains go away.

thanks,
chan
 

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That screw is from a plate that separates the crankcase from the sump in the pan. You don't need to fear it getting into anything, as the windage tray protects the crank, and a very well executed screen covers the oil pickup in the pan. However, if one is loose, the three others could be too. The dealer should handle this under warranty. Just make sure they clean the threads with brake cleaner and put a drop of Loctite on the screws when reinstalling.

As for the brake fluid level, it tends to drop as the pads wear. If you fill it up and install new pads, the fluid may overflow when the pistons are retracted to make room for the thicker linings. If you drive mostly on the street, then replace the fluid about once a year, and everytime you change pads. If you track the car, you should change the fluid at least twice a year.
 

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For street driving, pretty much any DOT 4 fluid will do. Lots of people use Motul 600. It's available at some auto parts stores, but lots of motorcycle shops.
 

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I'm not worth a damn at smack, but I know Vipers.
 

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GTS Dean said:
That screw is from a plate that separates the crankcase from the sump in the pan. You don't need to fear it getting into anything, as the windage tray protects the crank, and a very well executed screen covers the oil pickup in the pan. However, if one is loose, the three others could be too. The dealer should handle this under warranty. Just make sure they clean the threads with brake cleaner and put a drop of Loctite on the screws when reinstalling.

As for the brake fluid level, it tends to drop as the pads wear. If you fill it up and install new pads, the fluid may overflow when the pistons are retracted to make room for the thicker linings. If you drive mostly on the street, then replace the fluid about once a year, and everytime you change pads. If you track the car, you should change the fluid at least twice a year.
Sure sure...but BUT...what color is it... /images/graemlins/laughing.gif :cheers:
 

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Be sure to have your technician check and or remove all of the baffle screws and apply locktite once removed. I usually completely disassemble the oil pan when doing any major engine work to remove any unwanted metal or buildup and have found quite a few loose over the years.
 
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