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I can't see it adding any power to a stock motor.
Actually - I can't see the point in using it on a stock motor, unless
you're trying to correct a glitch.
The VEC is used to bring the A/F in line, for modded motors that have
stretched the limits of the stock PCM. In certain situations, correcting
the A/F may allow you to find more HP, but generally the mods give you the power, and the VEC gives you the safety.
 

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Why wouldn't you expect it to add HP to a stock motor?

Mine is a Gen II, but I picked up 44 RWHP on a stock motor -- that's back-to-back dyno runs from zeroed to being set properly. Actually the car was a bit hot on the last run, as there were two runs in between where we were still making adjustments. The only serious non-stock thing about my car is no cats and no muffler.

On a stock motor, mostly it'll help you dial out the extreme rich conditions that plague the stock PCM. I'm in the camp that believes the older PCMs made a bit more power, so I imagine the difference may be less -- and then there are the other Gen I / Gen II diferences, too -- but I'd think if you set it up on a dyno, you'll still see something.
 

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Who really keeps their car stock. By the time you add smooth tubes and
pull the cats, you have altered the fuel demands. What I was getting at
was the WOT conditions, of a stock motor, leave little gains to be made from
A/F manipulation. But all Vipers aren't created equal, and I know some
stock motors will net gains on the low end. I guess what I was trying to
do was put things in perspective - you generally find more perceived benefit
from the VEC after mods. And if you are going that route, and get a good
deal on a VEC first - latch onto it. Especially with the A/F monitor. :cheers:
 

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I am putting my VEC1 in this weekend - especially after seeing the A/F numbers drop straight off the chart at 3,500rpms at the dyno last week...

I was think more of the 15 to 20 HP range... The Torque drops off as well...

The dyno simply said that stock - it is trying to tell the engine that those CATs are getting way too hot at WOT... Which is obviously not needed since a majority of people do not have CATs - including myself...

IMO - it is a significant difference - just adjusting the mixture at idle you can tell the difference when feeding the beast...

For around $200 - what more could you ask for...

This weekend we are going to see if we can make both knobs a little more stealthy - possibly out them inthe ash tray or the glove box...

Then I'll Dyno again next Friday and post both slips... i expect a fairly significant difference...
 

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To me "stock motor" meant stock internals. No rockers, no cam, etc... I just assumed tubes/filters, and exhaust work is a fairly safe assumption.

Bang for the buck, you can't beat a VEC.
 

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Dennis...You don't have to use the LED Air Fuel gauge, as it works totally independent from the VEC1...

You can use an AutoMeter gauge like [color:"blue"]this one...[/color] matches our dash gauges perfectly...and then when you get on the spray, you can add an AutoMeter electric N20 pressure gauge, like [color:"blue"]this one...[/color] again, matches our gauges perfect...Or any other 2 1/16" gauge for fuel pressure, exhaust temp, etc...

And you'll need a gauge pod from Scott (Vipermed) at [color:"blue"]Elite Motorsports[/color] He has them for the RT/10 now...

The end result will look like this...except I don't have my new pod yet, this pod is for the GTS, but Scott modified it so it would fit, but the new ones fit perfect...

[image]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-6/215043/NFNVX-DSC00142.JPG[/image]
 
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