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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone,

I’m building a pro-touring ‘69 Barracuda with a coil over suspension, T56 magnum trans, and a 96RT v10 crate engine. I’m pretty familiar with small and big block mopars but, this is my first time digging into a v10. A Ram SRT10 is what inspired the build. I absolutely loved the characteristics of the 8.3. The low end torque is so much fun on the street. Feels like a big block stroker except reliable.

To the point, I have a 0 mile 96 Gen 1.5 v10. It’s been sitting for 24 years awaiting the right project. I’m going to be using the MS MS3pro evo ECU. Besides the power steering cap, what else would you all recommend I change/inspect prior to firing up this engine? Plan will be to run it N/A for 3-4 years before looking at boost.
 

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Cool project, there have been some p/s pulley failures. I think a company called Ipsco makes an aluminum replacement. If you are certain to add boost I would add injectors large enough to support the calculated output so that your n/a tune would be complete. The MS3 has an internal MAP sensor so it would be very easy to safely tune for boost pressure having a reliable n/a tune as a base. Enjoy this joining of Mopar Madness.
 

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The engine is basically an LA 360 with more stroke and 2 more cylinders added. Other than length, you should not have the sort of fitment problems that plagued the A-body, B-engine installs from the factory. The wet sleeve motors are also about 75# heavier than the Gen 2 engines.

The only significant flaw with the wet sleeve Gen 1 motor are the head gaskets. Having never been run, you shouldn't have any issues. The '96 cars were the first year that used the JTEC ECU which is OBD-2 compliant.
 

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Install wise, i could see the older style exhaust manifolds being not fun to find a good flange for. This can be fixed by getting gen2 headers, or aftermarket, or on the cheap by welding Vband flanges to them to make quick add/remove a thing.

I believe rock-auto has a power steering pulley that is steel if you want to replace it with something other than aluminum (either is fine tbh as long as its not the oem pulley).

Otherwise looking forward to seeing how this comes out! Very interested to see how you get along with the MS3 Pro and how that works out.
 

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It's going to be hard to beat the OEM thin wall cast iron headers for compactness and ease of servicing. They flow well - maybe better than the tubulars on the later cars, but do carry a weight handicap. Depending on fender well, torsion bar and steering gear clearances, the V-clamp tubulars may work out better. I think the port flanges are the same?
 
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Discussion Starter #6
I’m 100% certain I’ll be adding boost. Just not sure which method. I would love a Roe roots blower if I could get my hands on one.

Space is extremely limited with the ‘69 fish. I’ll be moving my firewall back 5”. The Gerst coil over suspension helps create extra room for header options. I may need to look at oil pan options.

Dealing with the MS3 Pro setup is going to be a steep leaning curve for me. I’ve yet to play with a FI setup (carbs are just so easy).

I’m really excited for the build. The car was a family heirloom until my father sold it in 1990. I found it and bought it back in 2014. I’ve now got a deadline of 01AUG21 to finish the car(drivable at least). I’ll be submitting the car in my grandfather’s name to Hot August Nights in Reno.

Power goals for the car are 450hp/500ft-lb at the wheels in NA form and 600hp/625ft-lb at the wheels on boost.
 

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Not sure what rear you are going to run, but 3.55s make a big difference over the stock 3.07

Great backstory, please keep posting. I love these projects even if I don't have the ability to do it myself.
 

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With 3.73's and a 26-27" tire you'll be shifting constantly. 3.3 or 3.5 are very good sets for the Viper, but so much depends on tire diameter and trans gearing. I assume you will tub it and run taller rubber, so your gear set may be fine. Quite a few folks have done Paxtons on their Vipers, and that let's you keep the trademark intake manifold.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
I’m actually running a 28.5” tall tire. It’s the largest I can go with the stock wheel well (10” wide). Squeezing a pro charger into that small engine bay would be pretty difficult. Even with pushing the firewall back 5” I’m going to have to place the fan in front of the radiator.

I’m not attached to the gen 1/2 intakes so, going roots wouldn’t bother me at all. Is it possible to flip the exhaust manifolds upside down? That would make retrofitting twins a little easier.
 

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It's going to be hard to beat the OEM thin wall cast iron headers for compactness and ease of servicing. They flow well - maybe better than the tubulars on the later cars, but do carry a weight handicap. Depending on fender well, torsion bar and steering gear clearances, the V-clamp tubulars may work out better. I think the port flanges are the same?
They are indeed the same flanges. I have them on my 01 with vband flanges welded to them for the twin turbo setup.
 
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