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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I have a 2005 twin turbo Viper which was built by Racing Solutions, looks like maybe back in around 2008-2010. I've reached out to RSI to try get some information about the car, but they don't seem to know much about it. I had some issues with the car not wanting to build more than 5 psi of boost, and turbos were leaking oil, so I took everything apart and am now trying to update some of the components.
I've rebuilt the GT35R turbos with new seals, hopefully that will solve the oil leak problems.

The car was tuned with the old style Paxton Fuel Controller and a Split Second piggy back. It looks like extra fuel pumps were added, in order to provide extra fueling. I did some reading of some older posts, and people were removing all that and installing extra fuel pumps into the tank and using SCT tuning.
I was going to go with AEM Infinity stand alone, but Holly bought out AEM and they stopped making the Infinity. I was left with either going the Motec route or trying to find something else. RSI sold me a Series 2 unit, alone with a wiring harness for a decent price, so I just got that. I only recently came across the system offered by John Reed Racing, they offer a Motec system for around $5,000. I'm not sure if that includes what I would need to control a twin turbo car, but anyway I'm going to try and use the Series 2 unit I got from RSI.

I reached out to them to find out what I should do about the fueling, they recommended their stage 2 fuel system which comes with RSI Twin Pump Fuel Hanger, RSI Twin Pump Hanger Harness, Two Walbro 267 Fuel Pumps, RSI Fuel Rails & Brackets, Fuel Pressure Regulator & Bracket, lines, Fuel Filter, Bosch 1000cc Injectors. Is this the route I should be going? The system is a little pricey at $2400, but I'm not sure if there's another more cost effective option.

My other question is about the standalone install. Where do people typically mount their stand alone ECU's? It looks to me like the wiring harness is long enough to go through the hole in the firewall on the driver side. There is currently wiring and a vacuum line going in there on my car for the Greddy Boost controller, which I'll be removing obviously. Should I be mounting the box inside the car somewhere? I'm assuming it's not water proof and should go inside. I was thinking about putting it where the current Split Second box is and the extra fuel pumps, which I'll be removing.

RSI also sent me a few extra sensors that the harness does not seem to have plugs for. Do those sensors get wired into the factory harness? They sent me
AEM MAP 3.5 BAR
AEM Fluid pressure sensor
Mopar Knock Sensor
AEM IAT
These are the instructions I got from RSI

  1. The IAT on the harness may have used the OEM sensor.
  2. The fluid sensor is for the oil pressure, it may have also used the OEM sensor check for that plug
  3. There was a MAP sensor wired into that harness as the vehicle that it came off of was a turbo car and did have a 3.5bar sensor
Also, does the Series 2 need a Fuel Pressure sensor?

Here are some photos of the current setup. If you guys have any other ideas about what I should do, please let me know
Thanks

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Yeah, I was hoping they would be a bit more helpful. I went to them since they are the ones that built the car, so I figured they would be the most knowledgeable about it.
I would start with a complete new fuel system and HP Tuner to dial in the car. Get rid of the outdated paxton stuff. I just noticed you have an AEM, not sure if you need that at this point.

Isaac
 

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First thing is kick the previous owner in the ass for the dirty engine compartment. Then get rid of the spaghetti mess on the left rear. After that, it comes down to funds.
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I have an RSI built Gen 3 that went to Dan at DC performance, spent another $50k to fix things that RSI didn’t do right (2006-2008)
I’m currently installing a Pro EFI stand alone engine management system with traction control, anti lag, etc. I spoke with John Reed about the Motec and it would have been $12k for everything needed, while motec is the best hands down, I opted for pro Efi due to the cost and customer support provided by Jason and his team.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
how much is the Pro-Efi set up costing you? I ended up ordering the Stage 2 fuel kit from RSI, along with braided power steering and oil cooler lines, as mine were leaking. Hoping to get my car back together once all that stuff arrives.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
well I'm still waiting for my fuel system to show up from RSI. Haven't made any progress on the car. I'm also going to get a catch can kit from them, hopefully collect all the oil out of the intake pipes
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well I got all my stuff from RSI. Now time to install everything. I'm working on the AEM and the catch can set up. Need to know where to put the AEM knock sensor. Should I remove one of the factory ones under the intake manifold? Also, since I'm installing a catch can, should I remove the line running from the driver side valve cover to the bottom of the intake? I was going to plug the port in the intake and run a line directly from the valve cover to the catch can.
 

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My can is up front and both lines from valve covers attached. I would want the AEM to read both knock sensors.
 

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My experience with catch cans is that the valve covers contribute only about 5-10% of the oil entraiment problem. Put a big can on the crank case vent circuit and be done with it.
 

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Chuck's got we curious as well. Never had issues on either tt car coming off the valvecovers.
 

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I am not acquainted with the particulars of the Gen3/4/5 PCV systems. I think you still need to investigate where the block vents and goes to the intake. As you can see in this thread, even the Gen 4 cars will load up the intakes with oil. I have experimented with 1 catch can plumbed into both valve cover breathers vs the block vent. The block will push 75-100x more oil out - most likely due to crank assembly windage.

 
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