[V10 MOJO]

opinions and input here. is it HP, is it shifting, is it tires blah blah blah...lets here from you as to what you think the key to a good sixty foot time is

 

[BigCarrot]

It sure aint shifting! It's a combination of traction, gears, launch rpm, hp, torque, and luck!

 

[Nole]

It is 90% seat time. The remainder is power and traction.

Chad

 

[Chuck 98 RT10]

With a stock 500 torque Viper I'm voting traction, traction, traction.

 

[PRVT JET]

the key is how long do you want the clutch to last, you have to ride the clutch just right. if you let go too soon, you will bog, too late and you will slip and fry your clutch.

 

[Cudaman]

ET streets 3800 -4200 rpm, dump the clutch




Pilots 1200-1400 rpm simultaneously, but evenly steadily letting out the clutch and by the time you have the clutch out you are giving the gas steady ...never dump the clutch nor stab the gas pedal/images/graemlins/drive , once you are into second gear go for it.

Cudaman:flag:

 

[Hisserman]

Respect what Cudaman says, he's been there!

 

[Mak]

The key is in the first 59 feet. It is all down hill from there.

 

[pauls]

Rich you bought some real slicks in BG, didn't you? If you have M/Ts it should be no problem getting 60s. Get the good half shafts and preload the drive train with the clutch in the staging lights. That takes the slack out of the driveline and will save your shafts. Then wind her up like Wayne says. My best sixty was on the rev limiter at BG. But for some practical life of components plan on about 4800. Air the tires so their just turning over slightly (16psi for me). You don't want them to dead hook and bog the engine down. You have to be able to drive through the tires and clutch in first gear to get your best 60.

 

[BigCarrot]

Rich you bought some real slicks in BG, didn't you? If you have M/Ts it should be no problem getting 60s. Get the good half shafts and preload the drive train with the clutch in the staging lights. That takes the slack out of the driveline and will save your shafts. Then wind her up like Wayne says. My best sixty was on the rev limiter at BG. But for some practical life of components plan on about 4800. Air the tires so their just turning over slightly (16psi for me). You don't want them to dead hook and bog the engine down. You have to be able to drive through the tires and clutch in first gear to get your best 60.

What do you mean by preloading the drivetrain? My car always seems to move when I let the clutch out. :screwy: What do you guys do on BFG's?

 

[tito]

Rich you bought some real slicks in BG, didn't you? If you have M/Ts it should be no problem getting 60s. Get the good half shafts and preload the drive train with the clutch in the staging lights. That takes the slack out of the driveline and will save your shafts. Then wind her up like Wayne says. My best sixty was on the rev limiter at BG. But for some practical life of components plan on about 4800. Air the tires so their just turning over slightly (16psi for me). You don't want them to dead hook and bog the engine down. You have to be able to drive through the tires and clutch in first gear to get your best 60.

What do you mean by preloading the drivetrain? My car always seems to move when I let the clutch out. :screwy: What do you guys do on BFG's?

ahahahaaa. i was thinking the same thing, my best guess he's got a line-lock.

 

[ROLLMODEL]

What do you mean by preloading the drivetrain? My car always seems to move when I let the clutch out. :screwy: What do you guys do on BFG's?

What he means is let the clutch out till it just barely 'grabs' something, I.E. the drivetrain. The clutch should be engaged enough to stop a car from rolling backwards-if someone were to push on it from the front (much the same as you would do while starting off going up a hill), but NOT enough to make the car go forward.

Much like an auto it 'loads' the driveline much more, although not NEARLY as much. This keeps the tires from getting shocked on the launch, providing more initial bite, and helps out the longevity of driveline components.

 

[Manny_C]

What do you mean by preloading the drivetrain? My car always seems to move when I let the clutch out. :screwy: What do you guys do on BFG's?

What he means is let the clutch out till it just barely 'grabs' something, I.E. the drivetrain. The clutch should be engaged enough to stop a car from rolling backwards-if someone were to push on it from the front (much the same as you would do while starting off going up a hill), but NOT enough to make the car go forward.

Much like an auto it 'loads' the driveline much more, although not NEARLY as much. This keeps the tires from getting shocked on the launch, providing more initial bite, and helps out the longevity of driveline components.

Great info! Doing this have you accidentally rolled forward a tad and red lighted? How far forward does one need to go to redlight?

 

[BigCarrot]

Damn, I would think I'd redline every time! I usually let the clutch out until just before it starts to grab, just to improve my reaction times.

 

[ROLLMODEL]

What do you mean by preloading the drivetrain? My car always seems to move when I let the clutch out. :screwy: What do you guys do on BFG's?

What he means is let the clutch out till it just barely 'grabs' something, I.E. the drivetrain. The clutch should be engaged enough to stop a car from rolling backwards-if someone were to push on it from the front (much the same as you would do while starting off going up a hill), but NOT enough to make the car go forward.

Much like an auto it 'loads' the driveline much more, although not NEARLY as much. This keeps the tires from getting shocked on the launch, providing more initial bite, and helps out the longevity of driveline components.

Great info! Doing this have you accidentally rolled forward a tad and red lighted? How far forward does one need to go to redlight?

I've never redlighted using this technique. Just let the clutch out till you hear that noise difference of friction when the clutch starts grabbing the flywheel, and you are set to go. When the last yellow drops, GO!!! This launch is much more smoother than just violently dropping clutch and shocking the driveline and tires.

In response to your other question....You have two staging lights, Pre-stage, and Staged. The first light will light up when you are prestaged, then both of them will light up when you are staged. HOWEVER, if the first light goes off (in case you roll forward a little bit) and only the second light is illuminated, YOU are now deep-staged. This is not a redlight, but at some tracks and events it is sorta frowned on. BUT, this gives you a little room for error if you were to ever roll forward like you said. (This will also give you a better 60' hypothetically since you are farther ahead of where you would normally start.)

But some tracks have a light that is illuminated on the tree in the center of the 2 rows of lights, and I forgot what color it was...(I'm guessing blue) that when lit, Deep-staging is NOT allowed. This usually happens during events and such...you will never encounter this at a test 'n tune night.

 

[GTSnake]

So loading the clutch just means that your left foot is holding the clutch down enough to not let the car roll but high enough so the drive train is under slight load?

You would have to hope that the starter starts the tree right away. /images/graemlins/surrender

 

[FlyBryViper]

Deep staging increases 60' times, but you leave latter on the tree.
Shallow staging decreases 60' times because you get more of a head start before the back edge of the tire lets the beam pass, but you leave earlier on the tree.
Normally, but this is true for "most" street cars. Some of these Vipers are running the time & speed to lesson the effect.
The biggest effect on how you should stage is you. What is most comfortable for you. Your tire circumfrance, or rollout, also plays a big role here as well.
After I light the pre-stage, I slowly creep into the stage beam, slow enough to make it flicker sometimes. I want all the headstart I can get!