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Sexist
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m sure SnakeBitten can answer this one.

I have a 3,000 mile road trip coming up and my stock stereo cuts out periodically. Even an Ironman like me needs a Gonzo fix on a trip that long. So what’s the problem? Receiver or amp? Recommendations please.
 

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I suspect you load the trunk to the max, and the amp gets too hot...cuts out long enough to cool a bit, then comes back on...It has built in thermal protection...

This is most likely to occur on long trips...don't pile stuff around the amp...just leave it a little breathing room...
 

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Sexist
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The sound stops then comes back on after a little rest. Seems like if I keep the volume under 24 it doesn’t happen so much. Unfortunately Ted, Aerosmith and AC/DC can only be played at 36 (my right ear should be going deaf in another year or so). I was guessing the cutout problem might be the amp. Jeeze now I need an amp cooler? Would a better amp resolve the problem?
 

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Chuck 98 RT10 said:
The sound stops then comes back on after a little rest. Seems like if I keep the volume under 24 it doesn’t happen so much. Unfortunately Ted, Aerosmith and AC/DC can only be played at 36 (my right ear should be going deaf in another year or so). I was guessing the cutout problem might be the amp. Jeeze now I need an amp cooler? Would a better amp resolve the problem?
A better aftermarket amp will probably solve your problem - but Gerald is right - you are probably packing crap against the amp in the trunk on long trips which causes it to overheat and shut down.
 

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Chuck 98 RT10 said:
Would a better amp resolve the problem?

Yes, it would...but then you're opening a whole other can of worms, since DC poked us with the DIN plug between the amp and the deck...

You could just get an audio shop to install a couple of 12V fans to move air across the amp...this is cheap and effective...and don't pile all of your road whore gear on top of it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
All I have in the trunk is my soft top. I'll try to pull it away from the amp.

I thought about the fan option. No go. With all the use I get loading and unloading the top I just bust the fans up. If a better amp will fix it then I'll have to go that route. Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No new speakers. A bud gave me his old speaker.

Budget with some quality. This tin ear don't need no hi-dollar getto blaster.
 

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snakebitten,

that din connector from the deck can be changed. Is that why you haven't gone to an aftermarket stereo or is it just not a need? there's several avenues you can take with that din connector.
 

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The amp has a diagram for the DIN plug. Anybody even half-competent with a soldering iron should be able to wire in a replacement amp without any problem.

Chuck -- 3000 mile trip? Back to Tejas?
 

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Schadenfreude Connoisseur
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McGuireV10 said:
The amp has a diagram for the DIN plug. Anybody even half-competent with a soldering iron should be able to wire in a replacement amp without any problem.

Chuck -- 3000 mile trip? Back to Tejas?
There is no way that that DIN plug can even come close to approaching the sound quality of a good pre-amp output. No matter what its going to be a high-level input which will most likely introduce a ton of noise... you may luck out though.
 

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A couple of well placed holes just behind the wheel well should do it! /images/graemlins/supergrin.gif
 

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Makaha said:
Snake Bitten,

that din connector from the deck can be changed. Is that why you haven't gone to an aftermarket stereo or is it just not a need? there's several avenues you can take with that din connector.
Like Smoke said, the problem with the DIN, is that it is shit...They used a "speaker common" for the negative side of the outputs/inputs, which turns out just to be the shield of the cable...No matter how I wired it up, there was insane, rediculous noise...

Now, I have heard of other owners that used the deck, and replaced the amp, or vice versa, but they had an audio shop do it, and they did not elaborate as to how they did it...It's true, there is a wiring diagram on top of the deck, as well as on the bottom of the amp...

My advice would be to punt the deck and amp...Run RCA's...and enjoy...anything else is gonna be a "patch"...

Budget deck/amp combo: Alpine MRV-F340 (Same size physically as the factory amp, $240) and ALPINE CDA-7995 MP3/CD Receiver ($350)

There's not a ton that can be done in the RT, as opposed to the GTS...No sense in tossing a ton of cash at it...
 

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SmokinV10 said:
There is no way that that DIN plug can even come close to approaching the sound quality of a good pre-amp output. No matter what its going to be a high-level input which will most likely introduce a ton of noise... you may luck out though.
He's talking about the stock equipment. Sound quality isn't an issue.

I agree with SnakeBitten, just replace the whole thing, but knowing Chuck, I suspect he's not interested in that.
 

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Snake Bitten said:
There's not a ton that can be done in the RT, as opposed to the GTS...No sense in tossing a ton of cash at it...
If you're going to make me get serious....Gerald's right (I hate saying that).
And anyway, if you're going to listen WHILE DRIVING (as opposed to parking or cruising with Tony Manero) you can't hear quality audiophile sound. Go with a reasonable receiver upgrade and upgrade the speakers.
 
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