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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Thanks Dean, once I can confirm it's all back together correctly with no leaks I'll post a write up!
And thanks for the info. I did mark the rack gear and the master flat with a sharpie so I should be able to get them back together centered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Update: I located both bearings on the pinion. One of them is really easy to find, the other I can only find overseas. Ordered one from the UK. Won't get here until end of November lol.

P/Ns for reference:
INA FC65769
KOYO 6201 C3 OPEN
 

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Were you able to remove the LH inner rack seal? I have heard others say the couldn't get to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
the bearings had part numbers but I also measured them to confirm. They are the same.

Dean, just to make sure, is it the seal near the center of the rack? Maybe a little more on the LH side but close to center.
 

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Correct - I believe it's close to the juncture between the aluminum casting and the steel pressure tube. There has to be a seal to hold pressure between the center rack piston and the LH side of the rack.
 

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If the bearings are still good, why replace them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
One of the bearings was shot. The other didn't feel bad but I'd rather have the peace of mind knowing it's not on it's way out anytime soon.


Dean, for that seal I used a 3/8 drive 3/4in socket on extensions from the driver side and tapped it out. there's just enough lip on the seal that it'll catch. I say 3/8 because my 1/2 drive socket was a hair too big.

Before I started tapping I looked thru the RH opening to made sure the socket was seated on the seal and not stuck in the passageway. Also kept checking to make sure socket was centered on the seal every few taps.
 

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That sounds like the sort of solution I would have expected to use after first hearing of the situation, but not personally having SEEN it.
 
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Dean, for that seal I used a 3/8 drive 3/4in socket on extensions from the driver side and tapped it out. there's just enough lip on the seal that it'll catch. I say 3/8 because my 1/2 drive socket was a hair too big.

Before I started tapping I looked thru the RH opening to made sure the socket was seated on the seal and not stuck in the passageway. Also kept checking to make sure socket was centered on the seal every few taps.
Do you or can you take a picture of how you did that? We are fighting with the seal now. I guess there is a purpose-built tool for the one seal, but cost $600.
 
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Do you or can you take a picture of how you did that? We are fighting with the seal now. I guess there is a purpose-built tool for the one seal, but cost $600.
Just posted a writeup! :)
Step 9
 

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Just posted a writeup! :)
Step 9

That is awesome, thank you!!
 
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i was think as I read your DIY post, maybe you can find a washer (metal or thick nylon) that you grind down to size to knock the seal out where you used the 3/4" socket for. Heck, you might be able to find one with an OD almost exact if you are luck.

there is always a different way.
 

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If you were to put a flat washer with the right OD on the driver's side tie rod stud and then spin a nut down behind it, it would pull that end seal along as the rack piston comes out. How snug was the center rack piston seal when tapping it out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
yes that would work as well. probably will take some experimenting to find a washer that's just the right size that it catches on the seal. It didn't take much effort to break it loose and even less to tap it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
been researching what grease to use on the rack/pinion teeth. i looked up general r+p grease and it looks like it's similar to ball joint grease. in that case would redline CV2 work?
 

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You want a very tacky, heavy EP grease that is stable at up to 250F. Open Gear Lube would be ideal, regular ball joint grease is probably just fine..
 
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