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· Landscaping Professional
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so very many threads available just using the SEARCH feature....
 

· Landscaping Professional
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· Landscaping Professional
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I most definitely would! FYI - you need to be careful when you insert the pinion to get the master flat clocked correctly with the rack gear centered in its travel. Check the coupling on the steering shaft when the wheel is level across to confirm the correct orientation.
 
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· Landscaping Professional
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Were you able to remove the LH inner rack seal? I have heard others say the couldn't get to it.
 

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Correct - I believe it's close to the juncture between the aluminum casting and the steel pressure tube. There has to be a seal to hold pressure between the center rack piston and the LH side of the rack.
 

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That sounds like the sort of solution I would have expected to use after first hearing of the situation, but not personally having SEEN it.
 
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If you were to put a flat washer with the right OD on the driver's side tie rod stud and then spin a nut down behind it, it would pull that end seal along as the rack piston comes out. How snug was the center rack piston seal when tapping it out?
 

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You want a very tacky, heavy EP grease that is stable at up to 250F. Open Gear Lube would be ideal, regular ball joint grease is probably just fine..
 
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I snapped this photo of mine when I was changing out tie rods last year. It looks pretty much like ordinary wheel bearing grease to me - still coating everything it's supposed to be.
Motor vehicle Automotive exhaust Automotive fuel system Gas Automotive exterior
 
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