SRT cats removed HELP
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O2 sims
They can be bought at Jegs, Summit, or one of the Viper vendors.
I think they may be cheaper at Jegs and or Summit.
They can be bought at Jegs, Summit, or one of the Viper vendors.
I think they may be cheaper at Jegs and or Summit.
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But they may not work. If you want the real deal, call Bill at APEX MotorSports. He's got the O2 sim thing down pat!
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BTW, just so you know, the rear O2 sims help control the A/F mixture. Chances are that you are running rich right now. When you get the sims and the ECU is fooled, you'll like it mo' better. I went through that when I removed the CATS on my ACR. I installed three sets of sims from Roe Racing and Hennessey (God bless'em for trying) and then called Bill at Apex. The ones he sent had correct connectors, were easy to install and more importantly, worked like a hose!
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Paul - you seem to know what you are talking about, so let me ask, should I go with a high flow cat or a straight pipe (replacing the cat altogether) on my Durango? Will I need to get 02 sims for a Durango?
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Don't know about the Durango. In the Viper, there are two sets of O2 sensors, one before the CATS and one after the CATS. The O2 sensors produce a signal that is tied to the computer (ECU) that tells it that everything is OK. This results in the computer allowing an Air/Fuel mixture that is suitable for the condition being encountered. (like hard acceleration) If the O2 sensor does not deliver the appropriate signal (in volts) back to the computer, (which it won't if the CATS are missing), the computer richens the mixture to insure a 'safe' A/F condition (not lean). Although the 'rich' condition is safe, it certainly is not conducive to making max power. The trick is to fool the computer when the CATS are off. This requires an O2 simmulator that plugs into the connector that the O2 simmulators plug into. The O2 sims produce the signal that the ECU requires to lean the A/F mixture out and provide max smoke. The trick to this is getting the right O2 sim that duplicates the signal that tells the ECU to 'let'er rip'. Call Apex, tell them what you have. Either he'll have the sim that you need or he can tell you where to go to get it. Since this is a Durango, Jerome may be right (although that would be a 1st) and Jegs or Summit may heve them. I'd call Bill 1st though cuz I swear, he's the man!
Hope this helps. If not, you're hopeless and you should be driving a Volvo. /images/graemlins/supergrin.gif
Hope this helps. If not, you're hopeless and you should be driving a Volvo. /images/graemlins/supergrin.gif
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Thank you very much for the explanation Paul.
Think I'll just get a Volvo.
Think I'll just get a Volvo.
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Hey now! /images/graemlins/laughing.gifPaulB said:
Think about all it does. It just feeds a signal back saying all is ok downstream of the cat. If you get the correct one, proper number of wires and in the correct order it will just feed back what is should read with a properly functioning cat.
Just call up or e-mail the companies who make them and ask which one you need. Or call up Jegs or Summit.I have done it before for other cars.
The Durango is OBD2 and should have downstream O2's and will need sims. No biggie.
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Is sims the offical word for the part(s) I need? I typed in sims at the Jegs site and got 310 results?!
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I theory you're right. The signal is in milli-volts though and it has to be the exact right signal. I tried several before I found APEX's. None of the ones I tried worked and it was a hassle trying to get them too.Jerome said:
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Here is the list from Jegs.vipernathan said:
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=120328&prmenbr=361
I would check with them or the maker and see what they say for the correct ones.
Let them do the legwork and find the proper ones for your Durango. Then if it should be wrong the will have no problem giving you your money back or getting you the correct ones.
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Paul I will call up and check to see which man. makes some for the Viper. Jegs will be my first call.PaulB said:
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Here you go Nathan, read the following link.
http://www.dodgedakotas.com/boards/v8/1083.html
Now we have to see if fixumm still needs help???????? We have not heard back from him..........
http://www.dodgedakotas.com/boards/v8/1083.html
Now we have to see if fixumm still needs help???????? We have not heard back from him..........
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Jerome - You're the man!!
thank you very much!
thank you very much!
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Glad I could help.
Report back and tell us your findings if you do this.
If I had access to a Viper I would find out what value is needed and build some cheap O2 sims for the boys. :nod:
Report back and tell us your findings if you do this.
If I had access to a Viper I would find out what value is needed and build some cheap O2 sims for the boys. :nod:
Thanks All not on the computer on the weekends. well what i did is change the muffler and while i had it off i cleaned out the rear cat so now i only have the front cat on each side working. so is this going to make a big differance on the type of chip???????Jerome said:
Strange things happen.....after taking the kats off and going around the block a few times the engine light came on so i Left the snake at the shop over the weekend, locked up and keys on my desk.Came in monday to start it and the battery was dead???? no reason why, no lights on inside even if they were they turn off by them self.Charge it up and no more engine light what gives.. I did disconnect the battery and that did no reset the light before.. :arcade:
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I put the SIMs in prior to starting up - therefore didn't trip the sensors...
I believe that check engine light will stay on - you need to clear that code... Takes two seconds - but we used Snake Bitten's dealie-bob to plug in and clear the check engine code...
I believe that check engine light will stay on - you need to clear that code... Takes two seconds - but we used Snake Bitten's dealie-bob to plug in and clear the check engine code...
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