Overview
This is a review of my experience performing a DIY coilover installation on my 2001 Dodge Viper GTS. The coilovers I purchased were from a Canadian company called Scale. I'm going to share a brief overview and cut-to-the-chase on the results in the third paragraph for those who don't want to read the entire writeup, which follows. But first, I need to qualify a few things for my opinion to mean anything.
I enjoy working on my cars and do anything I can to avoid taking them to the shop. I have performed suspension mods on two cars... a Triumph GT6 and a 2002 Corvette Z06. My Viper is the first car I have ever installed adjustable coilovers on, so I have no basis of comparison except for the before-and-after result with my Viper. My purpose and expectations for installing coilovers were twofold. First, I wanted to address the large wheel well gaps. Second, I wanted to tighten-up the handling and reduce the car’s tendency to become upset when navigating rough road conditions at speed. While the Viper’s steering is precise with crisp turning response, I felt it lacked stability at speed when on uneven or rough roads. Minimally, I wanted upgrading the suspension to adjustable coilovers to result in ride and handling to be at least comparable to the stock suspension and certainly not worse. So, my decision to purchase adjustable coilovers was largely driven by aesthetics.
I have no intention of tracking my car and intend to only drive it on the road. Anything I do to one of my cars must follow a “form follows function” approach and not degrade performance in any way. Any suspension mods must result in improved or comparable handling.
The Outcome
What I did to adjust the ride height and set the dampening was a combination of estimations and trial-and-error. I lowered the height by approximately 25-40mm (1-1.5”). The dampening setting I settled on is 8 from a range of 1-24 with 24 being the firmest setting. I am happy with the ride height and smaller wheel well gaps. The ride quality is comparable to stock. If it handles better, I can't say. I am satisfied with the build quality of the Scale coilovers and impressive customer support. Next, I will provide a thorough review of my coilover installation experience.
Before coilover installation
![Image]()
After Scale coilover installation
![Image]()
Scale Coilover Installation Project
Viper aftermarket adjustable coilover options are limited. On top of that little information can be found from Viper owners or even on Viper forums. My decision on which coilover to buy was based upon price, quality, and the few testimonials I was able to find.
Choices available for a Gen 2 Viper include KW, BC Racing, Aldan, Silvers, and Scale. The most popular one is BC Racing. With BC Racing, I found as many negative opinions as I did positive ones. KW coilovers begin at $5300 and even KW had negative reviews including a tendency to leak after just a few years. Beyond KW, prices skyrocket to over $8500 and only for newer Vipers. Regardless, that was more than I was willing to pay. The brands mentioned all cost less than half of KW with Silvers being the least expensive. I came across negative reviews with most coilovers but Aldan took the cake. The fact you need to reuse the OEM rear fork component with Aldan was reason enough to eliminate them from consideration.
I chose Scale coilovers for a few reasons. I found nothing but positive reviews from browsing Audi R8, BMW, and Infinity G35 and G37 forums to name a few. I found no Viper owner who installed Scale, making me the “mule.” So be it. In addition to the positive comments about the build quality, the customer service and support people claimed to receive from Scale were particularly impressive. This was confirmed when I emailed Scale and asked how their Alpine series coilovers compared to BC Racing. I received an immediate reply stating among other things that Scale uses gravitational bearings in all of their coilover lines. I had to look up what that meant. I did confirm that BC Racing uses standard bearings. To me, that indicated a commitment to quality for what is basically an entry-level coilover for my Gen 2 Viper.
The only option Scale offers for a Gen 2 Viper is their Alpine series. An upgrade to Swift springs is available for an additional $300, an option also available with BC Racing for $420. I went with the Swift spring upgrade at the recommended spring rates... 10K front and 12K rear. This is also what BC Racing recommends for street use with their coilovers. Similar to pounds per inch, the metric equivalent is kilograms per millimeter, thus the higher numbers. A 10K spring equates to 560 pounds/inch with 12K being 672 pounds/inch. Not surprisingly, these are the OEM spring rates for a Gen 2 Viper.
Scale agreed to a $100 discount if I sent them a summary of my experience. They didn't have any feedback from a sub-Gen 3 Viper owner and were interested in mine. Members of the Viper community were also interested in me being the “mule” to share my experience. I was happy to do so, especially since I expected it to be a positive one. I am a DIY car guy and enjoy working on my cars. In addition to performing all of the routine maintenance, I particularly enjoy performance mods and the satisfaction of doing the work myself, especially upgrades. SU-SPEN-SHUN upgrades are my favorite.
The Purchase
My communication with Scale was mostly through email and included at least one phone call. Josh was my sole point of contact. Although Scale is a Canadian company, Josh works from a sales office in Arizona. I can’t say enough good things about him. Upon placing my order, I was informed it would take 3 weeks to build the coilovers before shipment. Scale is a build-to-order business. It was closer to 4 weeks before they arrived due to a spike in sales. They arrived double boxed, bubble wrapped, and in perfect condition. The kit includes the adjustment wrenches common with a coilover purchase.
![Image]()
![Image]()
Coilover Settings During Installation
The coilovers arrive preloaded and ready to install. Preloading means the springs are locked in place in a neutral setting-- close to hand tight. What I didn’t know was where to begin with setting the height and dampening. I was told by Josh that the highest height setting would be equal to OEM height. I asked Josh, “How do I determine where the highest height setting is?” The coilovers have a groove on the threaded portion about 1” from the bottom of the shock barrel. He informed me at least 1” of the threads need to be threaded into the barrel, which is right at the notch line. I figured it was there for a reason. That was what I used for my initial height setting.
![Image]()
Next was where to set the dampening. I came across at least two articles that suggested starting at the mid-adjustment level and going from there. With 24 dampening settings, this equated to 12-clicks.
As it turned out, setting the height at the thread groove position jacks-up the car more than stock height, so what Josh told me was incorrect. Adjusting the height is easy, but does require removing the wheel, so be prepared for doing that multiple times. This includes when you are adjusting the dampening setting, too. I knew about this and was ready for an afternoon of jacking the car up and down and removing and mounting heavy Viper wheels. An evening hot bath helped soothe a sore back.
The Installation
It is easier to perform the coilover installation with all four wheels off the ground. I own a QuickJack lift and am so glad I bought it. Even with all four wheels lifted you still might experience difficulty removing and installing the coilovers. That's because there might be some torque effect on the suspension that could cause the coilover to twist or move at an angle making bolt removal difficult. Go slow and take your time to figure out what is happening. With enough effort and technique, you will get the bolts out. Having a hammer, block of wood, and metal rod of some kind to punch the bolt free will likely be needed.
A floor jack is needed to support the lower suspension arm and lift the bottom of the coilover so the upper portion of the coilover can be moved straight up into position. The mounting space to insert the upper portion of the coilover is a tight fit. Getting the coilover into position to install the bolts is the main issue. Use of a floor jack makes this possible, especially when working alone. You just may be fortunate and have all four go in without a problem. However, our cars are hand-assembled. What works easily on one side may be a pain with the other. Also, the experience of one Viper owner, even if the same year and model, can be different than yours.
Installing this style of aftermarket coilovers in a Gen 2 Viper means NOTHING needs to be removed except two bolts per wheel and, of course, the stock coilovers. The wheel well liners don’t need to be removed. It’s tight, but with a little finesse, you can use a small hammer and steel rod to gently punch-out the upper bolts. Also, you may come across one or more vids on YouTube that say you need to remove the sway bar end links to access the front lower coilover bolts. You don’t! All you need to do is turn the wheel enough to allow room to remove the bolt. It’s tight, but just enough to get it done.
Tip: Do apply anti-seize lubricant to the coilover barrel threads. It will make height adjustments easier, especially when the car is exposed to the elements after months or years of driving.
![Image]()
![Image]()
Small Problem
The front OEM coilovers were removed and the front Scale coilovers were installed without issue. Now, my Viper only has 13,000 miles and is in pristine condition, thanks to the previous two owners and my TLC. So, I didn’t need to wrestle with rusty hardware or worse. When it came to installing the rear coilovers, I noticed a sizeable gap of about 3/8” with the lower fork bolt mount. I also couldn’t align the coilover fork with the mounting holes. The gap was a big concern. If I did get the bolt aligned I would have to compress the fork 3/8” to tighten it. This can’t be right. I then compared the distance between the inside of the OEM fork mounting holes to that of the Scale fork. The Scale fork was 3/8” wider.
I contacted Josh and explained the problem. He said that Scale uses forks for 2003-2010 Gen 3 and Gen 4 Vipers as they do for Gen 2 Vipers. OEM Gen 2 forks are narrower than Gen 3 & 4 by about 12mm (0.47"). He said Scale could not justify the cost of manufacturing a different fork given the limited sales thus far. So, a bushing kit is included. The bushings and washers are used to address the gap. I was not supplied with the bushing kit, something that Josh apologized for and quickly sent me.
Installation Challenges and Tips
The problem with the rear coilovers is the wider forks make aligning the holes a real pain. Two sets of hands would definitely have been easier than what I had to manage by myself. The left coilover aligned without issue. The right side took about 40 minutes to finally get aligned so I could gently hammer in the bolt. Even with the car lifted and with the aid of a floor jack, the fork and lower suspension structure geometry can make alignment seem impossible. Just be patient. Our cars are hand-made and variations like this will happen.
The kit included two bushings along with 4 washers per side. Scale also supplied replacement bolts and nuts. If you were to damage the OEM bolts while removing the OEM shocks, then having replacement bolts would be quite helpful. The hardware looked of high quality, but I reused the OEM bolts, which were in good shape. I used two washers per side as I could not get the bushings to work for me. The limited play from jiggling the fork by using the supplied bushings made hole alignment impossible. The difference in thickness between one bushing and two washers per side, which I used, was small but just enough to get the fork positioned so I could insert the bolt. Again, I used two washers in place of one bushing.
There is still a small gap when using two washers per side (each side of the fork mounting bolt), but nothing to keep you from tightening the bolt without issue and without damaging the fork. Josh told me about this and said the OEM forks were likely bent in a similar way. Upon inspection, he was correct. This kind of communication gave me the confidence I needed during my coilover project. For me, there is little worse than uncertainty.
The rear coilovers are more difficult to install. The last bolt to install was on the left rear coilover. The bottom bolt went in without too much difficulty, although some maneuvering and jostling was required-- that plus a couple of hits with a hammer on the bolt. The upper bolt was another matter. The coilover was torqued outward and towards the front of the car. It did not line up with the bolt mounting location. Jacking up the suspension did not help. Attempts to push and leverage it into place proved futile. Then, I got the idea to shorten the coilover almost all the way. This did away with the angled torque and allowed the shock to be pushed in by hand and line up underneath the mounting area. Now, jacking it up into place and tapping with a piece of wood and hammer is all that it took. Yay! All bolts were now in place and secured.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
Setting the Ride Height
My main concern for setting the ride height was to be able to clear driveways, speed bumps, and navigate typical streets without damaging the front of the car. My golden rule is, “form follows function.” I measured the distance of the front spoiler “bib” bottom to the ground left and right before starting the project. The right side clearance measured 4 3/8” and the left 4 1/8”. I didn’t want to go any lower than 3”. I used what I found to be a simple way to keep track of making height adjustments. I measured in mm the threaded gap between the coilover lower and upper lock rings. The best way to measure is with a digital micrometer. If you don’t have one, buy one. I also measured from the center of the wheel hub to wheel arch. I was pleased to learn that this measurement when comparing each side left and right was almost exact. Some have complained about a large variance between OEM left and right side ride height. For me, this was one less thing I had to think about.
4-Wheel Alignment and Rake
I read and was told that when installing coilovers it takes two or more weeks for the suspension components to settle in before the true ride height is set. I did not experience this. I measured the ride height after first installing the coilovers and saw no difference after the first drive and even after one week of driving. Nonetheless, I waited two weeks before taking the car to have a 4-wheel alignment performed, just to be on the safe side. I took my Viper to West End Alignment, a small business based in Huntington Beach. Darin Nishimura is the long-time owner. The first time I went there was when I had an alignment performed on my Corvette. Darin's son Chris did the work. Darin is a real pro with 30 years of experience modifying and adjusting suspensions. I asked him about the rake and if he would measure it. I estimated the rake (rear higher than front) from my adjustments to be 3/4". After measuring it, he looked at me with a smile and confirmed that the rake was indeed 3/4”. I said Viper experts recommended a rake of 1-1.5 inches. While not an expert on Vipers, Dan scoffed at the notion of rake saying it hinders handling in turns. Regardless, I was satisfied with my rake setting.
Setting the Dampening
As I already stated, I began in the middle of a 24-click dampening range with a setting of 12. On my first test ride, I felt the ride was a bit bouncy. I then increased the dampening to 15. I found the ride to still be on the bouncy side. I increased the dampening to 18. The ride still felt bouncy and becoming a tad harsh. I was conflicted as to whether it was bouncy or bumpy, with bumpy being due to a firmer setting. I was aiming for a firm and compliant ride to increase driving confidence at speed and when encountering road undulations. I was willing to trade some comfort for compliance. Then, I further increased the dampening to 20. The ride still felt bouncy. What’s going on? Frustration set in.
I again contacted Josh and told him what I was experiencing. He didn’t seem prepared to offer any advice but did mention the option of going with higher rated springs, something I was definitely not willing to consider. I contemplated just accepting ride quality that was worse than before-- not what I wanted. After getting the 4-corner alignment performed, I experienced a problem with my door locks that gave me something else to deal with, so I put the coilover matter aside for a while.
A month later, I was able to resolve and fix my door lock problem. I could now refocus my attention on the coilovers. While lying in bed, I had an epiphany. A bouncy ride may be due to the firm dampening setting directing too much energy to the springs. I’m no engineer or physicist, but this made sense. When I increased the dampening firmness, the bouncy ride does not diminish. The standard spring tension the coilovers come with match the OEM spring rates. So, a firmer ride would require firmer springs to get components to work together right. This was my thought process. Consequently, I needed to decrease the dampening setting to direct more energy to the shock dampening and less to the springs. This should hopefully eliminate a bouncy ride.
The next day, I was eager to test my theory. I put the car on the lift and softened the dampening to a setting of 8 from a setting of 20. My hunch was confirmed during the test ride where the bounce was gone and replaced with a smooth ride. It felt similar to the stock shocks as best as I could tell. This achieved my minimal objective… a lowered car with better or similar ride quality. Mission accomplished.
The Verdict
I’ve driven my Viper at speed on the freeway navigating over some rough road conditions. I also purposely drove on bumpy streets making aggressive turns. The coilovers performed without issue. So, from my short experience, I can attest that Scale is a good option for Viper owners.
Had I known about the default spring rates, I would have ordered springs with a higher rating. Perhaps springs that are about 25% stiffer would allow a firmer dampening setting while avoiding a bouncy ride or a ride that is too harsh for street driving. But no matter. I’m satisfied with what I have and the modest amount of money spent for a quality product and company with outstanding customer support.
This is a review of my experience performing a DIY coilover installation on my 2001 Dodge Viper GTS. The coilovers I purchased were from a Canadian company called Scale. I'm going to share a brief overview and cut-to-the-chase on the results in the third paragraph for those who don't want to read the entire writeup, which follows. But first, I need to qualify a few things for my opinion to mean anything.
I enjoy working on my cars and do anything I can to avoid taking them to the shop. I have performed suspension mods on two cars... a Triumph GT6 and a 2002 Corvette Z06. My Viper is the first car I have ever installed adjustable coilovers on, so I have no basis of comparison except for the before-and-after result with my Viper. My purpose and expectations for installing coilovers were twofold. First, I wanted to address the large wheel well gaps. Second, I wanted to tighten-up the handling and reduce the car’s tendency to become upset when navigating rough road conditions at speed. While the Viper’s steering is precise with crisp turning response, I felt it lacked stability at speed when on uneven or rough roads. Minimally, I wanted upgrading the suspension to adjustable coilovers to result in ride and handling to be at least comparable to the stock suspension and certainly not worse. So, my decision to purchase adjustable coilovers was largely driven by aesthetics.
I have no intention of tracking my car and intend to only drive it on the road. Anything I do to one of my cars must follow a “form follows function” approach and not degrade performance in any way. Any suspension mods must result in improved or comparable handling.
The Outcome
What I did to adjust the ride height and set the dampening was a combination of estimations and trial-and-error. I lowered the height by approximately 25-40mm (1-1.5”). The dampening setting I settled on is 8 from a range of 1-24 with 24 being the firmest setting. I am happy with the ride height and smaller wheel well gaps. The ride quality is comparable to stock. If it handles better, I can't say. I am satisfied with the build quality of the Scale coilovers and impressive customer support. Next, I will provide a thorough review of my coilover installation experience.
Before coilover installation
After Scale coilover installation
Scale Coilover Installation Project
Viper aftermarket adjustable coilover options are limited. On top of that little information can be found from Viper owners or even on Viper forums. My decision on which coilover to buy was based upon price, quality, and the few testimonials I was able to find.
Choices available for a Gen 2 Viper include KW, BC Racing, Aldan, Silvers, and Scale. The most popular one is BC Racing. With BC Racing, I found as many negative opinions as I did positive ones. KW coilovers begin at $5300 and even KW had negative reviews including a tendency to leak after just a few years. Beyond KW, prices skyrocket to over $8500 and only for newer Vipers. Regardless, that was more than I was willing to pay. The brands mentioned all cost less than half of KW with Silvers being the least expensive. I came across negative reviews with most coilovers but Aldan took the cake. The fact you need to reuse the OEM rear fork component with Aldan was reason enough to eliminate them from consideration.
I chose Scale coilovers for a few reasons. I found nothing but positive reviews from browsing Audi R8, BMW, and Infinity G35 and G37 forums to name a few. I found no Viper owner who installed Scale, making me the “mule.” So be it. In addition to the positive comments about the build quality, the customer service and support people claimed to receive from Scale were particularly impressive. This was confirmed when I emailed Scale and asked how their Alpine series coilovers compared to BC Racing. I received an immediate reply stating among other things that Scale uses gravitational bearings in all of their coilover lines. I had to look up what that meant. I did confirm that BC Racing uses standard bearings. To me, that indicated a commitment to quality for what is basically an entry-level coilover for my Gen 2 Viper.
The only option Scale offers for a Gen 2 Viper is their Alpine series. An upgrade to Swift springs is available for an additional $300, an option also available with BC Racing for $420. I went with the Swift spring upgrade at the recommended spring rates... 10K front and 12K rear. This is also what BC Racing recommends for street use with their coilovers. Similar to pounds per inch, the metric equivalent is kilograms per millimeter, thus the higher numbers. A 10K spring equates to 560 pounds/inch with 12K being 672 pounds/inch. Not surprisingly, these are the OEM spring rates for a Gen 2 Viper.
Scale agreed to a $100 discount if I sent them a summary of my experience. They didn't have any feedback from a sub-Gen 3 Viper owner and were interested in mine. Members of the Viper community were also interested in me being the “mule” to share my experience. I was happy to do so, especially since I expected it to be a positive one. I am a DIY car guy and enjoy working on my cars. In addition to performing all of the routine maintenance, I particularly enjoy performance mods and the satisfaction of doing the work myself, especially upgrades. SU-SPEN-SHUN upgrades are my favorite.
The Purchase
My communication with Scale was mostly through email and included at least one phone call. Josh was my sole point of contact. Although Scale is a Canadian company, Josh works from a sales office in Arizona. I can’t say enough good things about him. Upon placing my order, I was informed it would take 3 weeks to build the coilovers before shipment. Scale is a build-to-order business. It was closer to 4 weeks before they arrived due to a spike in sales. They arrived double boxed, bubble wrapped, and in perfect condition. The kit includes the adjustment wrenches common with a coilover purchase.
Coilover Settings During Installation
The coilovers arrive preloaded and ready to install. Preloading means the springs are locked in place in a neutral setting-- close to hand tight. What I didn’t know was where to begin with setting the height and dampening. I was told by Josh that the highest height setting would be equal to OEM height. I asked Josh, “How do I determine where the highest height setting is?” The coilovers have a groove on the threaded portion about 1” from the bottom of the shock barrel. He informed me at least 1” of the threads need to be threaded into the barrel, which is right at the notch line. I figured it was there for a reason. That was what I used for my initial height setting.
Next was where to set the dampening. I came across at least two articles that suggested starting at the mid-adjustment level and going from there. With 24 dampening settings, this equated to 12-clicks.
As it turned out, setting the height at the thread groove position jacks-up the car more than stock height, so what Josh told me was incorrect. Adjusting the height is easy, but does require removing the wheel, so be prepared for doing that multiple times. This includes when you are adjusting the dampening setting, too. I knew about this and was ready for an afternoon of jacking the car up and down and removing and mounting heavy Viper wheels. An evening hot bath helped soothe a sore back.
The Installation
It is easier to perform the coilover installation with all four wheels off the ground. I own a QuickJack lift and am so glad I bought it. Even with all four wheels lifted you still might experience difficulty removing and installing the coilovers. That's because there might be some torque effect on the suspension that could cause the coilover to twist or move at an angle making bolt removal difficult. Go slow and take your time to figure out what is happening. With enough effort and technique, you will get the bolts out. Having a hammer, block of wood, and metal rod of some kind to punch the bolt free will likely be needed.
A floor jack is needed to support the lower suspension arm and lift the bottom of the coilover so the upper portion of the coilover can be moved straight up into position. The mounting space to insert the upper portion of the coilover is a tight fit. Getting the coilover into position to install the bolts is the main issue. Use of a floor jack makes this possible, especially when working alone. You just may be fortunate and have all four go in without a problem. However, our cars are hand-assembled. What works easily on one side may be a pain with the other. Also, the experience of one Viper owner, even if the same year and model, can be different than yours.
Installing this style of aftermarket coilovers in a Gen 2 Viper means NOTHING needs to be removed except two bolts per wheel and, of course, the stock coilovers. The wheel well liners don’t need to be removed. It’s tight, but with a little finesse, you can use a small hammer and steel rod to gently punch-out the upper bolts. Also, you may come across one or more vids on YouTube that say you need to remove the sway bar end links to access the front lower coilover bolts. You don’t! All you need to do is turn the wheel enough to allow room to remove the bolt. It’s tight, but just enough to get it done.
Tip: Do apply anti-seize lubricant to the coilover barrel threads. It will make height adjustments easier, especially when the car is exposed to the elements after months or years of driving.
Small Problem
The front OEM coilovers were removed and the front Scale coilovers were installed without issue. Now, my Viper only has 13,000 miles and is in pristine condition, thanks to the previous two owners and my TLC. So, I didn’t need to wrestle with rusty hardware or worse. When it came to installing the rear coilovers, I noticed a sizeable gap of about 3/8” with the lower fork bolt mount. I also couldn’t align the coilover fork with the mounting holes. The gap was a big concern. If I did get the bolt aligned I would have to compress the fork 3/8” to tighten it. This can’t be right. I then compared the distance between the inside of the OEM fork mounting holes to that of the Scale fork. The Scale fork was 3/8” wider.
I contacted Josh and explained the problem. He said that Scale uses forks for 2003-2010 Gen 3 and Gen 4 Vipers as they do for Gen 2 Vipers. OEM Gen 2 forks are narrower than Gen 3 & 4 by about 12mm (0.47"). He said Scale could not justify the cost of manufacturing a different fork given the limited sales thus far. So, a bushing kit is included. The bushings and washers are used to address the gap. I was not supplied with the bushing kit, something that Josh apologized for and quickly sent me.
Installation Challenges and Tips
The problem with the rear coilovers is the wider forks make aligning the holes a real pain. Two sets of hands would definitely have been easier than what I had to manage by myself. The left coilover aligned without issue. The right side took about 40 minutes to finally get aligned so I could gently hammer in the bolt. Even with the car lifted and with the aid of a floor jack, the fork and lower suspension structure geometry can make alignment seem impossible. Just be patient. Our cars are hand-made and variations like this will happen.
The kit included two bushings along with 4 washers per side. Scale also supplied replacement bolts and nuts. If you were to damage the OEM bolts while removing the OEM shocks, then having replacement bolts would be quite helpful. The hardware looked of high quality, but I reused the OEM bolts, which were in good shape. I used two washers per side as I could not get the bushings to work for me. The limited play from jiggling the fork by using the supplied bushings made hole alignment impossible. The difference in thickness between one bushing and two washers per side, which I used, was small but just enough to get the fork positioned so I could insert the bolt. Again, I used two washers in place of one bushing.
There is still a small gap when using two washers per side (each side of the fork mounting bolt), but nothing to keep you from tightening the bolt without issue and without damaging the fork. Josh told me about this and said the OEM forks were likely bent in a similar way. Upon inspection, he was correct. This kind of communication gave me the confidence I needed during my coilover project. For me, there is little worse than uncertainty.
The rear coilovers are more difficult to install. The last bolt to install was on the left rear coilover. The bottom bolt went in without too much difficulty, although some maneuvering and jostling was required-- that plus a couple of hits with a hammer on the bolt. The upper bolt was another matter. The coilover was torqued outward and towards the front of the car. It did not line up with the bolt mounting location. Jacking up the suspension did not help. Attempts to push and leverage it into place proved futile. Then, I got the idea to shorten the coilover almost all the way. This did away with the angled torque and allowed the shock to be pushed in by hand and line up underneath the mounting area. Now, jacking it up into place and tapping with a piece of wood and hammer is all that it took. Yay! All bolts were now in place and secured.
Setting the Ride Height
My main concern for setting the ride height was to be able to clear driveways, speed bumps, and navigate typical streets without damaging the front of the car. My golden rule is, “form follows function.” I measured the distance of the front spoiler “bib” bottom to the ground left and right before starting the project. The right side clearance measured 4 3/8” and the left 4 1/8”. I didn’t want to go any lower than 3”. I used what I found to be a simple way to keep track of making height adjustments. I measured in mm the threaded gap between the coilover lower and upper lock rings. The best way to measure is with a digital micrometer. If you don’t have one, buy one. I also measured from the center of the wheel hub to wheel arch. I was pleased to learn that this measurement when comparing each side left and right was almost exact. Some have complained about a large variance between OEM left and right side ride height. For me, this was one less thing I had to think about.
4-Wheel Alignment and Rake
I read and was told that when installing coilovers it takes two or more weeks for the suspension components to settle in before the true ride height is set. I did not experience this. I measured the ride height after first installing the coilovers and saw no difference after the first drive and even after one week of driving. Nonetheless, I waited two weeks before taking the car to have a 4-wheel alignment performed, just to be on the safe side. I took my Viper to West End Alignment, a small business based in Huntington Beach. Darin Nishimura is the long-time owner. The first time I went there was when I had an alignment performed on my Corvette. Darin's son Chris did the work. Darin is a real pro with 30 years of experience modifying and adjusting suspensions. I asked him about the rake and if he would measure it. I estimated the rake (rear higher than front) from my adjustments to be 3/4". After measuring it, he looked at me with a smile and confirmed that the rake was indeed 3/4”. I said Viper experts recommended a rake of 1-1.5 inches. While not an expert on Vipers, Dan scoffed at the notion of rake saying it hinders handling in turns. Regardless, I was satisfied with my rake setting.
Setting the Dampening
As I already stated, I began in the middle of a 24-click dampening range with a setting of 12. On my first test ride, I felt the ride was a bit bouncy. I then increased the dampening to 15. I found the ride to still be on the bouncy side. I increased the dampening to 18. The ride still felt bouncy and becoming a tad harsh. I was conflicted as to whether it was bouncy or bumpy, with bumpy being due to a firmer setting. I was aiming for a firm and compliant ride to increase driving confidence at speed and when encountering road undulations. I was willing to trade some comfort for compliance. Then, I further increased the dampening to 20. The ride still felt bouncy. What’s going on? Frustration set in.
I again contacted Josh and told him what I was experiencing. He didn’t seem prepared to offer any advice but did mention the option of going with higher rated springs, something I was definitely not willing to consider. I contemplated just accepting ride quality that was worse than before-- not what I wanted. After getting the 4-corner alignment performed, I experienced a problem with my door locks that gave me something else to deal with, so I put the coilover matter aside for a while.
A month later, I was able to resolve and fix my door lock problem. I could now refocus my attention on the coilovers. While lying in bed, I had an epiphany. A bouncy ride may be due to the firm dampening setting directing too much energy to the springs. I’m no engineer or physicist, but this made sense. When I increased the dampening firmness, the bouncy ride does not diminish. The standard spring tension the coilovers come with match the OEM spring rates. So, a firmer ride would require firmer springs to get components to work together right. This was my thought process. Consequently, I needed to decrease the dampening setting to direct more energy to the shock dampening and less to the springs. This should hopefully eliminate a bouncy ride.
The next day, I was eager to test my theory. I put the car on the lift and softened the dampening to a setting of 8 from a setting of 20. My hunch was confirmed during the test ride where the bounce was gone and replaced with a smooth ride. It felt similar to the stock shocks as best as I could tell. This achieved my minimal objective… a lowered car with better or similar ride quality. Mission accomplished.
The Verdict
I’ve driven my Viper at speed on the freeway navigating over some rough road conditions. I also purposely drove on bumpy streets making aggressive turns. The coilovers performed without issue. So, from my short experience, I can attest that Scale is a good option for Viper owners.
Had I known about the default spring rates, I would have ordered springs with a higher rating. Perhaps springs that are about 25% stiffer would allow a firmer dampening setting while avoiding a bouncy ride or a ride that is too harsh for street driving. But no matter. I’m satisfied with what I have and the modest amount of money spent for a quality product and company with outstanding customer support.
