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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I haven't done this before, nor did I read the manual yet. I figured I'd just throw up a post here in case anyone has any pearls of wisdom about something that might not be clear in the manual.

I need to clean some crap out in the radiator and I'm putting in brake ducts.
 

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There are bolts underneath and then a set of smaller ones in the wheel well. Also, a few snaps on top between the headlights. I remember a carbon fiber suppor tin the center and I think its easier if you unbolt the piece from the car and remove it with the fascia.
 

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Easy job Mark.. pulled mine twice. There are two schools of thought on this.. One is to undo the fiberglass bumper at the horns and pull the entire assembly. The second is to snip the plastic fasteners and just pull the fascia itself. I opted for the second method as getting to the bolts on the front bumper horns was just too difficult. For the second method, clip the fasteners (you need to replace them anyways), undo all the bolts along the bottom of the fascia, as well as the ones in each wheel well (I think 4 on each side). Once you do this you grab the fascia next to the wheel well and peel it off the wheel well support. You can now easily reach in there and disconnect the side marker lights (no fogs to worry about with the ACR). Peel the other side back, disconnect the marker light then just slide the entire fascia forward.. and you are done. To pull the fascia would take me 30 minutes or less once it's been done before. When replacing the fascia, you can get the fasteners at almost any auto paint shop.. just make sure to bring one of your old ones with you. When reinstalling the front fascia.. the fasteners go in real easy if you boil em first (softens the plastic for a couple of minutes).


I am including a couple photos to make the job easier hopefully
 

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I concur with removing the whole thing as an assembly. Getting replacement push pins seated back in some of the holes is a serious pain.

You need to remove all the fenderwell and behind-the-airdam bolts, the hood release handle bracket, and 4 of the 6 nuts that Roadkill shows. Getting it back on and aligned is easier with an extra set of hands. I have also found that it helps to remove the Gen2 intake air blockoff plate (from in front of, and above, the radiator) to feel the backsides of the carriage bolts on the frame horns.

Good luck!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks everyone. This sounds like one of those jobs to just dive into and then I'll be an expert.
 
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