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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I see companies make the type that opens the vavle and then the solenoid type.


Do both work good or is one better than the other?


I guess the solenoid could fail may be a drawback for that type. What about the other? Any negatives?


John
 

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valve John, mine is tied in with my bottle heater....won't heat until valve is open and stops at 900 psi..
 

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J DAWG said:
I see companies make the type that opens the vavle and then the solenoid type.


Do both work good or is one better than the other?


I guess the solenoid could fail may be a drawback for that type. What about the other? Any negatives?


John
Most of the failures that I've heard about with remote bottle openers are related to pressure. The valve just seems to "wear out" under the constant (or relatively constant) high pressures. They then either get stuck open or closed. I'd venture a guess (I have no proof of this just guessing), that of all the nitrous users out there, only a very small number of them use a remote bottle opener. They just open the bottle by hand when needed.
 

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I just cant see spending $250 on a part you can turn by hand in less than 5 seconds??? I mean if you're feeling froggy, just open it before you leave the house, then turn it off when you return home...anyways, just my $.02
 

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cmon johnny, just get your lazy ass outta the bucket and go open it. you tech geek :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
V10 MOJO said:
cmon johnny, just get your lazy ass outta the bucket and go open it. you tech geek :D


:rofl: like you have room to talk mr. gadgetman. good to see you are still alive and kicking.

just like Chad said it only takes one crotchrocket coming up along unexpectedly to make me wish I had put the damn thing on. beatings of Vipers spread quick 'tound my lil town. gotta keep up with the jones.


Is the NOS brand the kind that fits on the vavle? It seems(once I think about it) that the solenoid type would work as long as it has a big enuf opening. And since I mainly spray a 100 shot, maybe it would surfice.


Take care
John
 

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sounds about right. i dont see why you wouldnt initially just turn bottles on whenever you get to going out cruisin though? one thing about my setup i do like is the ball valve in the floor under my seat, on/off from right there. kind of a ghetto remote :D plus less nitrous wasted in lines

oh and for the record, i know im lazy, hell, i practice the fine art of laziness as often as i can. sometimes just getting off the couch to go take a leak seesm like a hassle to me :D if cathters werent such a bitch to self-install/uninstall id put a setup next to the couch and remote control :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Rich, I could just see your lazy ass running around with a Foley and bag attached to your leg :lol:


I forgot about the ole ball vavle in the floor thing. Being as inexperienced as I am with the juice my main concern would be a solenoid failing. but I guess there is no way to predict that and shit can happen.


John
 

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Jdawg

The solenoid type openers have always been a problem, that is why everyone has finally come out with a motor operated unit. The physical properties of the solenoid type opener causes the nitrous to go from liquid to gas, this is what cause the surging that is associated with this type of device. Anytime the nitrous changes to gas (before it enters the engine) it has a negative impact on performance.

There is a book that is out of print, but, available used thru Amazon, "Nitrous Oxide Injection", by David Vizard, hands down, it is the best book ever written on nitrous, it has a whole section on the issues of converting the nitrous to a gas.

All of the motor operated openers look like they came out of the same mold, they are rather simple and merely replace the bottle knob with a gear and the opener then mounts over the gear. I just bought the model from dyno tune. Food for thought, if you have the remote opener, you then need a remote gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks Jack.

The book sounds like a valuable read for me. Just trying to figure out in my head what physical properties of the solenoid opener would make the nitrous turn into a gas? If the solenoid opener would cause this then wouldn't the regular solenoid up front do the same thing? I know I do not understand the mechamics that well, but are the solenoids different? I guess I thought they were the same and essentially either open or closed by current. Is the orifice a different design between the 2 possibly that one would cause the mixture to change or is it the location of a solenoid so far back?


I know alot of ?'s and I appreciate your response. Also why a remote gauge if I have pressure transducer controlling the pressure of the bottle within a certain range? Don't get me wrong I would certainly like to know what the pressure is without looking in the trunk, but I was just trying to determine if you meant it was necessary or just a convienience.


Thanks
John
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
ps - does a purge remedy the mixture problem associated with that type of opener?


I also guess I know what you are referring to when U say "negative performance effects" because right now without a purge my car hesitates for a second when I hit the nitrous. I guess the time it takes for the liquid to reach the motor. Car feels like it stumbles and I get that spike in a/f.
 

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wouldnt the sputter only be on the FIRST shot...then after that the purge isnt needed.

or is That too simple thinking?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
plumcrazy said:
wouldnt the sputter only be on the FIRST shot...then after that the purge isnt needed.

or is That too simple thinking?

I know when I am out on the street mine seems to have the "sputter" everytime I get on it, but not from gear to gear. So if I get on it in 2nd it initially hesitates, but then doesn't when I hit 3rd and 4th. Then if I drive a few minutes and then hit it again it repeats the process. Probably just my car. It has been quite unique it seems, but runs pretty good.:thumb:
 

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John, I ownder if you have a small leak on your nitrous feed line or at the bottle or solonoid. It should not sputter after only a few minutes. Understandable on the first shot of the day if you don't purge but even a half hour shouldn't cause the sputter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Chad, very valid point and I don't know if I am explaining what it is doing correctly. Not really a sputter, but it hesitates when it kicks in. kinda like the car falls on its face for a split second then picks up like it should. Just one quick action, not several actions linked together like sputtering.


But my nitrous people are convinced I have leak or nitrous delivery issue since my tq is not what it should be. Once I find the lost 100 ft/lbs I should be all into the 9's.

John


ps - other than listening or feeling for coldness is there any other way to check for leaks? Nitrous is fun but can be a pain in the ass.
 
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