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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good morning all!

Weird situation here—neither avenue to open my driver's side door (door handles or emergency lever) are working. I've been Bo-Duke-ing it for a while but this certainly isn't something I'd like to live with forever. Once I get the door open, I'll be able to address the wiring problems and the emergency lever, but she's pretty stuck for now.

Does anyone have experience prying the doors open themselves? Is it even possible without damaging the door?

Passenger door worms, so I might have to take that one apart and do some reverse engineering, but if any of y'all have experience that could help me, I would greatly appreciate it!

Thank you!
 

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Once I get the door open, I'll be able to address the wiring problems and the emergency lever,!
The emergency levers utilize a mechanical cable system.

It is not odd that you would have issues with the electric system if there is damage int he wire loom in the door jam, it IS ODD that it would effect the cable mechanism in the slightest. It sounds more like the door is fused at the mechanism.

I wouldn't suggest a crowbar, yet.

If you remove the body panel ahead of the doors, it will expose the hinge assembly. If you disassemble the hinge assembly, the only.thing keeping the door on would be the lower door jam and the locking mechanism(s). Maybe you could finagle it from there.

Other than that, crowbar.
 

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You could break the glass and then replace it. That way, you wouldn't fuck up the bodywork. However, as hard as glass is getting to find for Vipers in general, maybe fiberglass repair is a better bet? Nah.

Maybe drill the rear hatch lock cylinder out and use a big screwdriver to open the hatch. The lock cylinder is held in by a large nut, so a slide hammer may not work.Then reach through by the fuel door and open the passenger door with the manual latch. Do NOT - under any circumstances - fuck up the glass, or the door channel run/stanchion cover!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It is not odd that you would have issues with the electric system if there is damage int he wire loom in the door jam, it IS ODD that it would effect the cable mechanism in the slightest.
Yeah it's two separate issues. The mechanical latch hasn't worked since I bought the car, but I (was an idiot and) couldn't be bothered to take the door panel off to fix it. I didn't anticipate the wiring to fail too.

Maybe drill the rear hatch lock cylinder out and use a big screwdriver to open the hatch. The lock cylinder is held in by a large nut, so a slide hammer may not work.Then reach through by the fuel door and open the passenger door with the manual latch.
I can get into the car through the passenger door, back hatch, and windows (I do have the keys). It's just that both the popper and mechanical latch on the driver's side that don't work
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So is the latch binding or the lock locked?
You can apply voltage to the popper if you think the latch is not binding.
The electric signal from the door to the controller (relay under the steering wheel) is there, I can hear it when I pull the handles. But the connection isn't working from the relay to the popper.

I think that'll be the best way to go, if possible. As unintrusively as possible getting voltage to the poppers
 

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Check the wire loom in the cover going into the door.

Sounds like the latch is binding.

You might need to remove the pins in the hinges or the hinges themselves. But would be the last thing i would do.
 

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So can you lower the window?

My passenger door drags a little some people think it cannot open.
Is it remotely possible that the door is simply dragging to much on the sill that you think you cannot open it?
Perhaps the door has sagged (the hinge is loose that allowed the door to drop) etc.

Might make more sense to see if you can pull on the mechanical cable and get the door open then just fix it.
 

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I've had to address this twice on a Gen 1. It sucks, but in a GTS, might be impossible. But in the RT, remove the driver's seat to have better access to the door screws, pulling the door panel back to get access to the locking mechanism. I think I used a custom bent screwdriver to pull down and open the latch. You should have to have the replacement latch next to you to see how it operates.
 
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Yes, it is. That doesn't mean it's easy, just accessible. Having the door open helps as well. Loosening the plug inside the footwell gives you some more length to work with, but it is a PITA to release.
 

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If the manual latch lever does not move, indicating that the latch itself is seized but the cable is still attached, then maybe flooding the latch with Liquid Wrench in a spray can from the outside, aimed into the door gap at the latch might work. You can buy extended length spray can straws on eBay.
Cable Event Automotive exterior Wire Automotive window part

Automotive tire Wheel Bumper Rim Bicycle part
 

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So can you lower the window?

My passenger door drags a little some people think it cannot open.
Is it remotely possible that the door is simply dragging to much on the sill that you think you cannot open it?
Perhaps the door has sagged (the hinge is loose that allowed the door to drop) etc.

Might make more sense to see if you can pull on the mechanical cable and get the door open then just fix it.
RVJohnMD: I have seen in the two Gen II vipers that I have had that if someone lays their weight into the door getting in and out of the viper, it tweaks the hinges. Because of that, the door drags causing exactly that. My suggestion is to lift up hard on the door when trying to open it. Hope it works ! John 2001 Viper GTS
 
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