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Not exactly sure which hole you are referring to, but I'll take a stab. If you are looking at the central cast void with the drilled orifice - and the other tiny hole to the lower right - then I would speculate the tiny hole is a casting flaw and I would recommend a heliarc repair to plug it completely. It looks like a problem to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes thats the hole I'm talking about but definitely not a casting flaw. That picture isn't from my housing I'm not home and didn't have a picture so I grabbed one off the net.

Mine has the same and the timing cover has a matching hole. The gasket has a matching hole so it is intentional. I've seen several other housings they all have the same hole.

Thanks for trying though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Don't know, look at where it matches up on the block, looks real as apposed to a casting flaw to me.

Drain the oil back to the pan? or some kind of filter bypass.

I dont think it drains to the pan since if you look at the back of a timing cover there doesn't seem to be a exit for it.

My suspicion is that it routes back to the pump itself but not sure.

I'm wanting to for now make a plate that eliminates the filter since I don't like the selection of filters and I'm going to replace the oil cooling system.

I would like to not have to take the timing cover off to further investigate since I know myself and that would lead to a full on rebuild and more money into the void lol. Which is why im here see if anyone knowns. My train of thought.... if I want to take off the cover it would be easier outside the car, if the engine is out of the car let's change the stupid tight bearing clearances and re gap the rings... if im doing that let's just build the engine lol.
 

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You can get the timing cover off in the car. It helps a lot if the shock tower strut is removed and the steering rack is unbolted from the frame (KEEP TRACK OF THE SHIMS ON EACH SIDE) and the steering shaft. You can let it lay forward out of the way.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you take the housing off, then clean it and inject some oil or water (but with water you have to flush it with solvent and dry) and see where it exits from.
Yeah thats a good idea, right now I'm a bit tied up fabbing the single turbo kit so probbaly would be a while. But I guess that will be last resort.

Thanks for the reply.
 

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Here are some photos of the timing cover and oil filter adapter.
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This one indicates the difference in flow paths between the ACR unit (left) without bypass and the standard filter adapter.
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This photo is of the remote filter adapter that is used with the Dailey Engineering external oil pump setup.
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Man thanks for the reply seems like daily blocks it since all that's there is the return that goes from the timing chain cover to the feed galley hole.

I think due to where it is maybe it's feed by the pump and then maybe to the back of the slider valve that changes the flow direction to eliminate the cooling system flow.

Maybe it's like a pressure reference. I know the slider uses a spring for sure. I dont know its just a guess at this point.
 

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Here are some photos of the timing cover and oil filter adapter.
View attachment 153666


View attachment 153668

This one indicates the difference in flow paths between the ACR unit (left) without bypass and the standard filter adapter.
View attachment 153669

This photo is of the remote filter adapter that is used with the Dailey Engineering external oil pump setup.
View attachment 153670
I've said it once, I'll say it again. Dean IS THE MAN with his posts!!

Worth his weight in gold.
 
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Been there. Done that. I have t-shirts and photos! The one view we still need to complete this analysis is the side view of the front cover where the adapter bolts on to see how it is ported.
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I KNEW I had seen some detailed porting photos somewhere and here's the link!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I KNEW I had seen some detailed porting photos somewhere and here's the link!
That's a good find im gonna read the thread later. I skimmed it and its going into the galleys I had mentioned from pics of timing covers.

I think im gonna shelve this and just wait till next year and install a external oil pump and just eliminate the factory pump and oiling system.

I really love this car but damn so many thing are black holes and voids in information. I'm just going to make some trap doors for the oil pan since it's remarkable that they shipped this car with about the dumbest designed oil pan I've ever seen on anything. I happen to have a 8.5 qt pan but need to keep it to allow for the cross over for the turbo setup. But 10 qt is just as bad no trap doors at all.
 

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How do you plan to use the car - mostly street blasts? What kills crankshafts is sustained high-G, high rpm turns.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It's going to be drag and general street. I already have a accumulator I'm installing. Normally drag cars have issues at the end of the run where the oil slushes to the front. Have to pull a good amount of G for that so it's harder under acceleration but the oil pan design is so bad that I'm sure even then it might have issues so im covering my ass. These are all the same trick you do on big nitrous big blocks and crazy turbo ls which is more my background.
 
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