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Offficial Polyurethane bushing group buy!

22674 Views 122 Replies 36 Participants Last post by  ryans13
5
So it is final! The polyurethane control arm and shock bushing kits are ready to start taking orders! My very first call looking for parts for my car was for polyurethane bushings over 2.5 years ago. Nobody made them. I have finally gotten so sick of the wet sponge feel of my cars handling, I have decided to make them! This first group buy is for 1996-2002 GTS and RT/10
For those not familiar with Polyurethane bushings, there is alot of advantages. Polyurethane is chemical resistant, will not break down like rubber, alot firmer than rubber, and in the case of the Viper, you no longer need to buy a full control arm or shock to replace worn bushings!
The stock rubber bushings allow for alignment change and control arm movement when subjected to cornering, braking, and acceleration forces. On cars with skinnier tires, this change is less noticeable. But, the viper being able to create greater forces than most cars, and larger tires then most cars, this alignment changing relates to a car that feels loose or unpredictable when being pushed near the limit. With the poly you get far more predictable handling, and far longer bushing life.
Not only is there the obvious performance gains to the poly bushings, but it can be looked at as a maintenance part also for the Viper. Upon pulling my car apart (97 GTS) i noticed the stock rubber bushings were in far worse shape than originally thought. Every bushing on the entire car was cracked, some even with chunks missing. Even not all of the stock bushings are available without the purchase of a whole new control arm, or new shock. My shock bushings were approx. 1/8" offcenter with no weight on them out of the car. With weight on them, and figuring in where they bolt onto the control arm, this could equate to about 3/4" or more in dropped ride height, and the first 3/4" of rebound being nothing but bushing play! The bushings are not dampened by the shock, so it can induce a slight amount of bounce. Not good for handling!
So in this initial group buy you will recieve all control arm bushings, all shock bushings, related hardware, and an alignment lock kit that is installed once your alignment is set. These are all parts made in short runs specifically for the Viper. All hand made in the U.S.A.!!
I understand some of you already have aftermarket shocks that have uniball or some type of solid mount already. In that case just let me know and i can subtract the price of the shock kit.
Instructions will come with each kit. Some of the stock bushing outer cases are kept, and some inner cases are kept. This is all outlined in the instructions. Polyurethane bushings must be greased, so we include grease taylored to this. A special oil has also been added to all of the bushings to help eliminate sqeeking.

Group buy price is $640 shipped anywhere in the U.S. I will be holding that group buy price for an entire month!! After March 15th, price will go to $700 shipped. They will ship via usps priority. Paypal is preferred method of payment. I have over 330+ positive feedback on Ebay with a 100% score, and about 500 total paypal transactions.
My cell phone # is 503-504-1037 (Scott) and can be reached at that number to help with install questions or tips. The website will be up very shortly and am reviving the name SVRTech (the name of my parts business i had before my day job got too busy!). A quick search and you will find many videos posted by customers about prior products on the 350Z/G35 chassis. As far as i know, I still have the highest bolt on power record for exhaust designs.

Now the pics!!


Full kit you will receive with group buy price


Control arm only kit


Shock only kit


installed upper front control arm


Pic of how bushing goes together for all lower control arms with s.s. washer thrust surfaces.


All alignment lock shims are 304 stainless. All lower control arm bolts are fine thread grade 8 bolts with grade 8 nylock nuts. All thrust washers are also stainless. All center bushing material is drawn over mandrel steel.

This first group by is for all 1996-2002 GTS and RT/10. Gen 3-4 is right around the corner with gen 1 right after that.

Pm me or post questions here!
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This is a new Miller Special Tools - Viper Essential Tools - Kit No.6990 in an opened box.
It consists of the following :
Part # 6989 - qty 2 - Inclinomter ( transducers - in sealed packages )
# 6996 - qty 1 - Caster Alignment Inclinometer Switch Box
# 6969-1 - qty 1 - Spacer
# 6969-2 - qty 1 - Deep Cup
# 6969-3 - qty 1 - Threaded Rod w welded nut & loose nut
# 6969-4 - qty 1 - Nut
# 6969-5 - qty 1 - Sleeve & Contact Piece
# 6961 - qty 1 - Remover
# 6916 - qty 1 - Right Side Ajustable Bracket
# 6916 - qty 1 - Left Side Adjustable Bracket
# 6915 - qty 2 - Bar w Spring loaded stud
# 6925 - qty 1 - " Torque to 42 FT-LBS "
# 6962 - qty 1 - Narrow Cup
# 6983 - qty 1 - Horseshoe Spacer
# 6914 - qty 2 - Spring-Loaded Square Tubes
# 8101 - qty 1 - Inclinometer Operating Manual



Is this whats all needed?
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I did the fronts a year ago, probably took a few evenings. That was with makeshift tools though. I just did the rears and it took maybe 4-5 hours per side, but I also did a bit of cleaning while I was there and had problems separating the ball joints. BTW, I hate ball joints. Good (and the right) tools are your friend for this project. I have a 12 ton press and that part was pretty easy, they pressed right out and the new ones pressed right in. Hate that grease though. And ball joints.
3
We replaced all the ball joints, tie rods(inner/outer), wheel hubs, coilovers, and control arm bushings. Took awhile for sure, though we had to wait until our control arms were powder coated. We also wire brushed everything that was rusty and covered it with a matte black anti rust paint.

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This is a new Miller Special Tools - Viper Essential Tools - Kit No.6990 in an opened box.
It consists of the following :
Part # 6989 - qty 2 - Inclinomter ( transducers - in sealed packages )
# 6996 - qty 1 - Caster Alignment Inclinometer Switch Box
# 6969-1 - qty 1 - Spacer
# 6969-2 - qty 1 - Deep Cup
# 6969-3 - qty 1 - Threaded Rod w welded nut & loose nut
# 6969-4 - qty 1 - Nut
# 6969-5 - qty 1 - Sleeve & Contact Piece
# 6961 - qty 1 - Remover
# 6916 - qty 1 - Right Side Ajustable Bracket
# 6916 - qty 1 - Left Side Adjustable Bracket
# 6915 - qty 2 - Bar w Spring loaded stud
# 6925 - qty 1 - " Torque to 42 FT-LBS "
# 6962 - qty 1 - Narrow Cup
# 6983 - qty 1 - Horseshoe Spacer
# 6914 - qty 2 - Spring-Loaded Square Tubes
# 8101 - qty 1 - Inclinometer Operating Manual



Is this whats all needed?
More than enough. With a DRB-3 equipped with a PEP module, you can do your own alignments.
We replaced all the ball joints, tie rods(inner/outer), wheel hubs, coilovers, and control arm bushings. Took awhile for sure, though we had to wait until our control arms were powder coated. We also wire brushed everything that was rusty and covered it with a matte black anti rust paint.
WOW-- those look pretty!!!! worth spending the time to do that!! great job
We replaced all the ball joints, tie rods(inner/outer), wheel hubs, coilovers, and control arm bushings. Took awhile for sure, though we had to wait until our control arms were powder coated. We also wire brushed everything that was rusty and covered it with a matte black anti rust paint.
That's an unusual looking toe link. Is that off a Gen3?
Honestly I don't know what a stock one looks like, that's the rear toe link in the picture and we only replaced the outer tie rod there. They could have been changed out though since the rear had upgraded Unitrax half shafts. Though replaced the diff with an OS Giken and axles with DSS CV axles.
I was referring to the outer tie rod end. I have never seen one with that square wrench flat on it. I'm sorry I wasn't specific.
OZ1, check your pm's. I want to order a set for a G2.
OZ1, check your pm's. I want to order a set for a G2.
Got it. Calling now. Thx!
Not for a number of years.
Check Energy Suspension
they dont carry anything for the 3rd gen + models.
I don't really like them (the Energy Suspension ones for a 2nd gen). It's like they bind and it takes considerable force to make them move. If I attempt to do a shock test by bouncing the rear or front end, it's difficult to make it move at all. I'm sure the ride suffers because of this.
If I were to do it again, I would just get new stock bushings or control arms- if they are available.
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they dont carry anything for the 3rd gen + models.
3rd Gen Bushings would be 2 rear Gen2 sets in either Energy, or Nolothane(brand name). Both will list nothing for gen3, but gen3 use the same bushings as the gen2 rear arms
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I don't really like them (the Energy Suspension ones for a 2nd gen). It's like they bind and it takes considerable force to make them move. If I attempt to do a shock test by bouncing the rear or front end, it's difficult to make it move at all. I'm sure the ride suffers because of this.
If I were to do it again, I would just get new stock bushings or control arms- if they are available.
ended up doing delrins from DSE.
Does DSE have Delrin bushings for more than just the sway bars? Those are the only ones listed on the website.
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