jack russel terrorist------I almost snotted beer on my keyboard!
I have both of the above installed as well. The solid rack bushings were harder of the 2 to install and took a little more time trying to manuver the power steering rack around to slide the bushings in and get a wrench on them, but steering did get more precise.thanks mamba!
i really recommend adding in the solid rack bushings and some poly end links (neither i myself offer but they are easily found) as it really rounds out everything and makes steering very precise.
IPSCO, Pantera, Viper, Mechanical Parking Brake, Remote Thermostat Housing, E-Brake Kits, Big Brake KitsStupid question... Where / how to buy these?
I pressed out the center bushing using a vice, then pressed out the rubber the same way, and then took a hack saw for the outer bushing. I used a propane torch to get the rubber off of the center bushing (heated up the rubber so it becomes brittle...it comes right off with scotchbrite after that). Didn't leave a mark on anything...but it wasn't funIt was a bit of a job to do these bushings. I found a 1-1/4 hole saw works nice on a low speed. The shock bushing collars are very tough to remove, even with an air hammer. I took my body saw and split them, they practically fall out then.
Nice. I tried using my press a bit and didn't care for it. Either way, I don't want to do another set.. lolI pressed out the center bushing using a vice, then pressed out the rubber the same way, and then took a hack saw for the outer bushing. I used a propane torch to get the rubber off of the center bushing (heated up the rubber so it becomes brittle...it comes right off with scotchbrite after that). Didn't leave a mark on anything...but it wasn't fun
Fixed that for you. ^^^^^Hi,
Yes polyurethane bushings are really gooder than the rubber original
Its named in one of the posts and spelled out in the link text that I think you are referring to.Any can someone type the name of the grease used? This link to AZ doesnt work.
you da man! thanks!!Its named in one of the posts and spelled out in the link text that I think you are referring to.
Here is a working link to what was talked about:
Valvoline Cerulean heavy duty grease
Thanks for the feedback. Does forever to install mean like an hour per arm? I do know getting the old ones out can be a bitch. I do have a press and plenty of tools so I know I can do it but I am trying to figure out the time required overall to pull the arms, then R and R the bushings, then reinstall said arms.Love mine, no squeaks yet, or downside. Think I have 3 years on mine now.
It seemed like it took me forever to install the bushings, something I don't want to do again. If you did enough of them, I'm sure you could refine the process.
I have access to a new, top of the line, hunter alignment setup, so I can play around with my alignment whenever I want. I have to say it was much easier to adjust after the poly bushing install. Tried some aggressive camber for autoX, but suspect it makes it a little unstable above 140mph.
I am ordering a kit now. and the C-4150 ball joint separator you suggested in another thread- thanks Dean!!!Find someone with a Miller Tools 6990 Viper kit. If you can't borrow one, then go to Ebay and buy one for yourself. Use plenty of never seize on the tool threads and the bushings come right out of the wishbones.
On a related note, If you are trying to get the old, worn bushings out of the OEM sleeves, put one in a vise, use a torch and very gently heat the outsides. The glue will soften and you can push the old bushings right out with a short bar into a bucket of water. Clean the sleeve walls with a flapper wheel.