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Offficial Polyurethane bushing group buy!

22676 Views 122 Replies 36 Participants Last post by  ryans13
5
So it is final! The polyurethane control arm and shock bushing kits are ready to start taking orders! My very first call looking for parts for my car was for polyurethane bushings over 2.5 years ago. Nobody made them. I have finally gotten so sick of the wet sponge feel of my cars handling, I have decided to make them! This first group buy is for 1996-2002 GTS and RT/10
For those not familiar with Polyurethane bushings, there is alot of advantages. Polyurethane is chemical resistant, will not break down like rubber, alot firmer than rubber, and in the case of the Viper, you no longer need to buy a full control arm or shock to replace worn bushings!
The stock rubber bushings allow for alignment change and control arm movement when subjected to cornering, braking, and acceleration forces. On cars with skinnier tires, this change is less noticeable. But, the viper being able to create greater forces than most cars, and larger tires then most cars, this alignment changing relates to a car that feels loose or unpredictable when being pushed near the limit. With the poly you get far more predictable handling, and far longer bushing life.
Not only is there the obvious performance gains to the poly bushings, but it can be looked at as a maintenance part also for the Viper. Upon pulling my car apart (97 GTS) i noticed the stock rubber bushings were in far worse shape than originally thought. Every bushing on the entire car was cracked, some even with chunks missing. Even not all of the stock bushings are available without the purchase of a whole new control arm, or new shock. My shock bushings were approx. 1/8" offcenter with no weight on them out of the car. With weight on them, and figuring in where they bolt onto the control arm, this could equate to about 3/4" or more in dropped ride height, and the first 3/4" of rebound being nothing but bushing play! The bushings are not dampened by the shock, so it can induce a slight amount of bounce. Not good for handling!
So in this initial group buy you will recieve all control arm bushings, all shock bushings, related hardware, and an alignment lock kit that is installed once your alignment is set. These are all parts made in short runs specifically for the Viper. All hand made in the U.S.A.!!
I understand some of you already have aftermarket shocks that have uniball or some type of solid mount already. In that case just let me know and i can subtract the price of the shock kit.
Instructions will come with each kit. Some of the stock bushing outer cases are kept, and some inner cases are kept. This is all outlined in the instructions. Polyurethane bushings must be greased, so we include grease taylored to this. A special oil has also been added to all of the bushings to help eliminate sqeeking.

Group buy price is $640 shipped anywhere in the U.S. I will be holding that group buy price for an entire month!! After March 15th, price will go to $700 shipped. They will ship via usps priority. Paypal is preferred method of payment. I have over 330+ positive feedback on Ebay with a 100% score, and about 500 total paypal transactions.
My cell phone # is 503-504-1037 (Scott) and can be reached at that number to help with install questions or tips. The website will be up very shortly and am reviving the name SVRTech (the name of my parts business i had before my day job got too busy!). A quick search and you will find many videos posted by customers about prior products on the 350Z/G35 chassis. As far as i know, I still have the highest bolt on power record for exhaust designs.

Now the pics!!


Full kit you will receive with group buy price


Control arm only kit


Shock only kit


installed upper front control arm


Pic of how bushing goes together for all lower control arms with s.s. washer thrust surfaces.


All alignment lock shims are 304 stainless. All lower control arm bolts are fine thread grade 8 bolts with grade 8 nylock nuts. All thrust washers are also stainless. All center bushing material is drawn over mandrel steel.

This first group by is for all 1996-2002 GTS and RT/10. Gen 3-4 is right around the corner with gen 1 right after that.

Pm me or post questions here!
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jack russel terrorist------I almost snotted beer on my keyboard!
thanks mamba!

i really recommend adding in the solid rack bushings and some poly end links (neither i myself offer but they are easily found) as it really rounds out everything and makes steering very precise.
I have both of the above installed as well. The solid rack bushings were harder of the 2 to install and took a little more time trying to manuver the power steering rack around to slide the bushings in and get a wrench on them, but steering did get more precise.

The poly end links are cheap and installed faster. They are an excellent bang for the buck mod to improve latteral stiffness in transition....big difference than stock there. Its almost a must mod for any viper new or old. The only bushings on my gen 3 that are not poly or solid mount now are the diff mount bushings....and from what i know, no one makes an aftermarket alternative. I'm not really sure if they would be needed though. Of all my bushings that came factory they are the only ones still in good shape.
Stupid question... Where / how to buy these?
I have been installing these bushings in my car, and I have been taking my time as I am documenting how to do it (my way) so others can see what is involved. So far my way of doing things has been pretty slick so far, and I have only had to bug Scott a few times just for clarification on some things.

I will say that changing the bushing on the shock is a pain in the ass compared to the A-arms...but now that I have I figured out a method it is not so bad.
It was a bit of a job to do these bushings. I found a 1-1/4 hole saw works nice on a low speed. The shock bushing collars are very tough to remove, even with an air hammer. I took my body saw and split them, they practically fall out then.
It was a bit of a job to do these bushings. I found a 1-1/4 hole saw works nice on a low speed. The shock bushing collars are very tough to remove, even with an air hammer. I took my body saw and split them, they practically fall out then.
I pressed out the center bushing using a vice, then pressed out the rubber the same way, and then took a hack saw for the outer bushing. I used a propane torch to get the rubber off of the center bushing (heated up the rubber so it becomes brittle...it comes right off with scotchbrite after that). Didn't leave a mark on anything...but it wasn't fun :D
I was just going to put them in a glass parts case in the garage next to my garage queen :)
I pressed out the center bushing using a vice, then pressed out the rubber the same way, and then took a hack saw for the outer bushing. I used a propane torch to get the rubber off of the center bushing (heated up the rubber so it becomes brittle...it comes right off with scotchbrite after that). Didn't leave a mark on anything...but it wasn't fun :D
Nice. I tried using my press a bit and didn't care for it. Either way, I don't want to do another set.. lol

Replaced my front upper ball joints and inner/outer tie rods. Those ball joints are a bitch!
Hi,
Yes polyurethane bushings are really good than the rubber originals.Recently I got BMW bushings done from the ARMSTRONG DISTRIBUTORS Inc. It is really useful in increasing the longevity of your automobile and you get the guarantee also about the installation.
Hi,
Yes polyurethane bushings are really gooder than the rubber original
Fixed that for you. ^^^^^

I assume that you work for the company that you mention?
Hi,
No I don't work for that company.I said I got my BMW bushings done from that company.
Any long-er term updates?? This seems to be my next mod. Can anyone tell me how long it took you to replace the bushings per arm? and per shock? Trying to plan my attack.
Also- anyone have a link to the steering rack bushings and the end links? Any can someone type the name of the grease used? This link to AZ doesnt work. Thanks

Also, after all this is done, I plan to take it to get aligned and corner balanced. Anyone have alignment specs for the car? prefer track specs if someone will share. Double thanks!!
Love mine, no squeaks yet, or downside. Think I have 3 years on mine now.

It seemed like it took me forever to install the bushings, something I don't want to do again. If you did enough of them, I'm sure you could refine the process.

I have access to a new, top of the line, hunter alignment setup, so I can play around with my alignment whenever I want. I have to say it was much easier to adjust after the poly bushing install. Tried some aggressive camber for autoX, but suspect it makes it a little unstable above 140mph.
Also, he does not have the bushings made for the rear upper arms on a Gen 1. He thought they were the same on G1/G2, but they are not. He was working on sourcing an arm to get them made, but that was years ago.
Any can someone type the name of the grease used? This link to AZ doesnt work.
Its named in one of the posts and spelled out in the link text that I think you are referring to.

Here is a working link to what was talked about:
Valvoline Cerulean heavy duty grease
Its named in one of the posts and spelled out in the link text that I think you are referring to.

Here is a working link to what was talked about:
Valvoline Cerulean heavy duty grease
you da man! thanks!!
Love mine, no squeaks yet, or downside. Think I have 3 years on mine now.

It seemed like it took me forever to install the bushings, something I don't want to do again. If you did enough of them, I'm sure you could refine the process.

I have access to a new, top of the line, hunter alignment setup, so I can play around with my alignment whenever I want. I have to say it was much easier to adjust after the poly bushing install. Tried some aggressive camber for autoX, but suspect it makes it a little unstable above 140mph.
Thanks for the feedback. Does forever to install mean like an hour per arm? I do know getting the old ones out can be a bitch. I do have a press and plenty of tools so I know I can do it but I am trying to figure out the time required overall to pull the arms, then R and R the bushings, then reinstall said arms.
Find someone with a Miller Tools 6990 Viper kit. If you can't borrow one, then go to Ebay and buy one for yourself. Use plenty of never seize on the tool threads and the bushings come right out of the wishbones.

On a related note, If you are trying to get the old, worn bushings out of the OEM sleeves, put one in a vise, use a torch and very gently heat the outsides. The glue will soften and you can push the old bushings right out with a short bar into a bucket of water. Clean the sleeve walls with a flapper wheel.
Find someone with a Miller Tools 6990 Viper kit. If you can't borrow one, then go to Ebay and buy one for yourself. Use plenty of never seize on the tool threads and the bushings come right out of the wishbones.

On a related note, If you are trying to get the old, worn bushings out of the OEM sleeves, put one in a vise, use a torch and very gently heat the outsides. The glue will soften and you can push the old bushings right out with a short bar into a bucket of water. Clean the sleeve walls with a flapper wheel.
I am ordering a kit now. and the C-4150 ball joint separator you suggested in another thread- thanks Dean!!!
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