MSD booster help please
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
MKS,
Pull the left rear inner fender and tap into the wires coming from the fuel pump module. You are going to tap into the B+ lead and the pump ground...not the level unit ground. You will bypass the factory fuel pump relay and use the MSD relay for your trigger lead to energize the pump. The harness is strapped to the rail and taped together to form a "T" next to the tank, cut your harness there and splice your MSD wiring to the pump harness. There is exactly enough wiring to run to that spot...make sure you zip-tie the wiring away from the half-shaft and the exhaust. Make sure you use a fuel gauge to set your WOT voltage, otherwise you will run into a rich condition. I set my pressure at 58 psi at idle and start off lean and work my up until I carry at least 52-55 psi at WOT. On most blower applications it is around 16 volts under boost...with that I have carried a good air / fuel reading of 12 to 1 on the dyno. That is what I have done and it seems to work very well...maybe somebody else can chime in and offer a different opinion...
If I can help in any other way feel free to ask...
Later,
Joe
Pull the left rear inner fender and tap into the wires coming from the fuel pump module. You are going to tap into the B+ lead and the pump ground...not the level unit ground. You will bypass the factory fuel pump relay and use the MSD relay for your trigger lead to energize the pump. The harness is strapped to the rail and taped together to form a "T" next to the tank, cut your harness there and splice your MSD wiring to the pump harness. There is exactly enough wiring to run to that spot...make sure you zip-tie the wiring away from the half-shaft and the exhaust. Make sure you use a fuel gauge to set your WOT voltage, otherwise you will run into a rich condition. I set my pressure at 58 psi at idle and start off lean and work my up until I carry at least 52-55 psi at WOT. On most blower applications it is around 16 volts under boost...with that I have carried a good air / fuel reading of 12 to 1 on the dyno. That is what I have done and it seems to work very well...maybe somebody else can chime in and offer a different opinion...
If I can help in any other way feel free to ask...
Later,
Joe
MKS,
That will be a good place to start. When you get on the dyno to tune your cards, watch your air fuel readings. Watch your fuel pressure on your pulls and watch your air fuel to drop off above 5000 rpm. You will most likely turn it up to keep the volume there and not go lean. If it is not turned up enough it will cause your readings to move upwards(lean...etc 13.0 to 1) Try to adjust your fuel pressure like I said above and then you can adjust your fuel trim with your laptop. If you make changes with your program and it does not change your readings, it will most likely be related to fuel volume. I just finished a stock '97 GTS with the 8# kit and I made 618 and 633 at the rear wheels on a 12.0 to 1 reading across the power band. Try to keep your readings in the 11.8 to 12.0 area for a nice safe tune. If you do that, you will have a totally different car....good luck and hang on !!!
Later,
Joe
That will be a good place to start. When you get on the dyno to tune your cards, watch your air fuel readings. Watch your fuel pressure on your pulls and watch your air fuel to drop off above 5000 rpm. You will most likely turn it up to keep the volume there and not go lean. If it is not turned up enough it will cause your readings to move upwards(lean...etc 13.0 to 1) Try to adjust your fuel pressure like I said above and then you can adjust your fuel trim with your laptop. If you make changes with your program and it does not change your readings, it will most likely be related to fuel volume. I just finished a stock '97 GTS with the 8# kit and I made 618 and 633 at the rear wheels on a 12.0 to 1 reading across the power band. Try to keep your readings in the 11.8 to 12.0 area for a nice safe tune. If you do that, you will have a totally different car....good luck and hang on !!!
Later,
Joe
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