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Is the LUK clutch package you can buy on EBAY the same clutch used on a stock Viper? If not, does it have the same quality?

Thanksss!!!
 

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Jack...You aren't gonna hook him up with the "alignment tool fix"...


And what clutch are you running now??? Come on...you can tell me!!!
 

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Is the alignment tool a big deal? I mean, you can see if the clutch is lined up wiht the pilot bearing beore bolting up the tranny.
 

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How big of a job is it to put a new clutch disc into a Gen 1 or Gen 2 viper?
 

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The LUK clutch is exactly the same as a stock one. I believe they are the OEM manufacturer for Chrysler on the clutches. Put them side by side and they look identical. Ive been running this LUK clutch successfully for the last 4K miles putting 775rwhp to the ground.
 

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THOR said:
How big of a job is it to put a new clutch disc into a Gen 1 or Gen 2 viper?
It's a pretty easy job (if you have a lift) and shouldn't take much more than a couple of hours (depending on your skill level).
 

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GaryA:

You are right it is simple, however, God and Santa together on a lift couldn't replace the clutch in two hours. I will bet the flat rate is at least four hours, maybe a dealer/tuner can give us the flat rate. Just take a look at what a dealer charges for a clutch replacement. The cost of parts is not that high, even at list the disk and plate can't be more than $400.
 

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Took me almost 9 hours, but it was my first time EVER doing a clutch. If i had to do it again(knbowing the ins and outs of the install), I could do it easily in 4-5 hours.
 

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It took me and my helper about 3, we learned its easier to take the bell houseing off than wrestle it at an angle bewteen the frame rails.
 

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Another problem, I would think it is almost impossible without a transmission jack. The dry base unit weighs 135 lbs.


Dansauto:
did you drop the trans complete with the bell housing, or did you separate them. I have pulled out the trans by it self, but, you are right you have to massage it out. I don't know why, however, it goes back in a lot easier then it comes out.
 

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We tried to drop it with the bell housing on and I only have a cheap harbor freight trans jack. Rather than muscle it around we then unbolted the bell housing and seporated it to remove. We left it apart then put it togather after we cleared the rails.
 

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If you have the car up on a lift and have two people, the taller one in the front, you just drop the output shaft[rear] end way down to almost perpendicular to the ground. Then you just aim the input shaft to the pilot bearing and raise the rear end as you fit it in. This part takes about 30 seconds. I tried with a trans jack for 2 hours and it would not go in. I think the trans jack is the only way to go to get the trans. out while the dowel pins are still in the bell housing.
 

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Hardest part of the whole job, if you have the right tools that is and a helper, is taking the drive shaft off. Other than that its pretty straight forward. You also must realize how far back the trans does need to come to get the input shaft free. The fron of the trans will go over the ears that hold the rear of the trans.

Tom
SMS Racing
 
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