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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
comments, advice, suggestions, recommendations, etc.

I do know once its adjusted it's need an alignment but what other things should I be aware of?

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I hear its also smart to have the car put on scales and each corner weighted as well.

I was thinking of lowering the car 3/4 to an inch and keeping the shock settings as they came from the factory.
 

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You'll love it lowered - although you definately know it getting in and out of it - as strange as that seems...

I also put a chin guard on mine - you wouldn't think an inch would be that much - but it took me a few drives to be careful on everything...

I noticed the lowered difference immediately... You can see the guard just barely...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How far did you lower yours? Did you change the shock settings?

great picture.
 

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The springs on the later acrs suck according to many - so you may want to change them out pretty quickly. I've heard the ride can actually be dangerous. Call JonB, I know he had a later ACR and he changed his spring rates.

You definitely don't want to lower koni's more than 3/4" - maybe the dynamics can better handle the full 1". I will say that at 3/4", I wouldn't want my car any lower or I'd risk crackin the oil pan on speedbumps. I clear 95% of them now by a very minimal amount (if I bounce the shock at all I hit).

Definitely do the alignment when you drop it.
 

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Its not accurate to start by saying "only lower it by XXX inches" because from the factory the ride heights were all screwed up!

Here is a sweet track/street ride height and alignment. From one of the best, Russ at Archer racing:

FRONT:
Ride Height: 4 1/4"
Camber: - 1.2
Castor: + 6.3
Toe: ZERO

REAR:
Ride Height: 4 1/2"
Camber: - 0.8
Castor: + 6.2
TOE: + 1/16

As for shock settings, these were recommended by one of the best as well, Paul Mumford:

Shock Settings:
BUMP (Compression): 3 FRONT, 3 REAR.
Rebound: 2 FRONT, 4 REAR.

This asssumes you have the Koni 2812 shocks.

I have tried and tested this at VIR, and its a very good neutral setup! Good for the street as well.

- Edit: I noticed you have a 2001 car, so the specific shock settings wont work since you have dynamic suspensions, but the alignment still applies.

Hope this helps!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Great info so far. Keep it coming!

and yes..where do you measure ride height from?


What is meant the springs are dangerous? Are they not keeping the tires on the road over larger bumps or something?

Anyone have recommendations on shock settings for the dynamic suspension?
 

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99,
Ride height floor to frame:
I believe so, but to be positively sure please call John Archer. He'll tell you if you call, if he doesnt know offhand he'll just ask Russ. Google Archer Racing and you will find the number...

The comment about the springs being too dangerous on the later cars is a thought that the rear spring rate of 1100 pounds delivered on the dynamic suspension cars was a bit too much for the stock car. Now, alot of the GT-1 cars have rates like this, but they run those springs on a racetrack, not over railroad tracks! I cannot substantiate these claims personally, since my ACR was a 2000 with Konis.
 

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Toby said:
comments, advice, suggestions, recommendations, etc.

I do know once its adjusted it's need an alignment but what other things should I be aware of?

Thanks.
Your driveway, Toby, your driveway. You'll never be able to drive from your driveway down to the street or from the street up to your driveway without serious modifications to the curb or even more serious scraping of the underside of your Viper. Or get hydraulic lift kits for your Viper to raise it up 2-3".

BTW - Your Viper looks just great the way it is. :nod:
 

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Ride height is measured from the floor to the frame at the axle centerlines. There are reference holes (PLPs) punched in the frame rails at that point. Unless you have a lift, you will not be able to measure this clearance properly.
 
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