[GTS Dean]

The last couple of months, I reinstalled the timing cover after doing some PCV oil control mods and a catch can drain to a remote petcock setup, I rebuilt the water pump and installed a FlowKooler impeller, resealed the steering pump, the steering rack and the front brake calipers. I had damaged the lock catch on the cam sensor trying to get the connector loose, so I bought a new connector housing and moved the wire terminals from old to new and confirmed wire positions. I had spun the motor over a number of times with the fuel pump relay and plugs removed to preoil everything. I got all other fluids refilled and hand bled, then the moment of truth came for the first start since July '22. Plugs in and tight, fuel pump relay back in the socket, cam sensor plug on and tight - crank,crank, crank - I smell fuel, but no fire.

I got the Powertrain Diagnostic Manual and the Shop Manual out and plugged the DRB-3 in and found a no count message for the cam position sensor. I went through the flow chart checking volts and ohms from cam connector to the PCM and 10-way plugs on the D.S. fender and all checked good. The book says bad cam sensor - so I go to my spare parts car and rob the unobtanium sensor off the timing cover and installed it in Blue. Plugged back in and it fired immediately. I ran it 2 seconds, then finished tidying up everything else and went to bed. Next day I'm ready to start it and no fire. Turns out I have some bad/intermittent continuity on one of the 3 cam sensor wires.

Trying to access and replace the wires from the front engine harness is near-impossible to do in place, so I decided to rob the '98 harness and install on the '96. Pulling that crap out is a lot easier than reinstalling - especially behind the steering pump and alternator. At least it was freshly scrubbed with Simple Green, brushes, clear water and compressed air. All the connectors are the same, but the harness pigtails drape & route slightly different between them. After all was reconnected, I fired it up and ran it twice for about a minute each Saturday night, then twice on Sunday morning. I washed and oiled my K&N's for the first time in about 8+ years and completed the engine compartment assembly.

Last May at COTA, I broke a 4th gear trans synchro, so I bought a takeout spare box from Mike to swap and run while repairing the broken one. I cleaned it up, put a new throwout bearing assembly and remote bleeder setup on it. I installed a new yoke seal and a 90* AN drain elbow and cap for the trans. All is ready to swap it out, but I'm out of time before my engine builder's new shop open house this weekend. At least it will drive so I can get a new inspection and license renewal this week. Trans can wait another week, or two.

 

[85vett]

Nice job on the rebuild of the power steering rack and water pump. I'm even more impressed you were able to find the parts (bearings/seals) in order to do it in the first place.

My reading comprehension is pretty bad but I can't tell if you figured out the sensor/wiring issues or if they were still ongoing. I'm pretty sure that I still have the stock sensor from my car from when I did my timing chain cover gasket (I replaced the sensor while in there). More than happy to let you try it if you think it's a sensor issue vs a wiring issue. Also, if it would help you trouble shoot, I'd be happy to drive my 98 down your way to test/trace things to compare possible problem areas.

I'm busy this weekend but pretty sure my calendar is open the following one. I finally got my car registered (my constant EVAP low leak code wound up being the gas tank gasket) and the cars running good again. Only thing I'm still trying to figure out is rear alignment (car drives real loose feeling) but it's good enough for a small road trip while I'm keep trying to get it right.

 

[GTS Dean]

Hey Brad,

Yeah - I'm pretty sure I have some broken wire strands in 1 or 2 of the 3 leads to the sensor. When it's plugged in, it flakes out. When I pull it off and up so I can check pin readings, it all seems to work fine. The old sensor appears to work, but plug won't stay snapped on. I need to pull new home-runs from sensor housing to the wheel well plug connectors. Have to round up the correct terminals and seals for each end and some 18ga conductor. Let's plan a day some weekend soon and we'll have a look at your rear suspension.

 

[85vett]

Sounds like a plan. I think I've got an open weekend coming up in March. I'll PM you when I know for sure and to see when you are free. I'll run by storage to see if I can find that old sensor. I'm pretty sure I kept it but not 100%.

 

[Brickhead]

The last couple of months, I reinstalled the timing cover after doing some PCV oil control mods and a catch can drain to a remote petcock setup, I rebuilt the water pump and installed a FlowKooler impeller, resealed the steering pump, the steering rack and the front brake calipers. I had damaged the lock catch on the cam sensor trying to get the connector loose, so I bought a new connector housing and moved the wire terminals from old to new and confirmed wire positions. I had spun the motor over a number of times with the fuel pump relay and plugs removed to preoil everything. I got all other fluids refilled and hand bled, then the moment of truth came for the first start since July '22. Plugs in and tight, fuel pump relay back in the socket, cam sensor plug on and tight - crank,crank, crank - I smell fuel, but no fire.

I got the Powertrain Diagnostic Manual and the Shop Manual out and plugged the DRB-3 in and found a no count message for the cam position sensor. I went through the flow chart checking volts and ohms from cam connector to the PCM and 10-way plugs on the P.S. fender and all checked good. The book says bad cam sensor - so I go to my spare parts car and rob the unobtanium sensor off the timing cover and installed it in Blue. Plugged back in and it fired immediately. I ran it 2 seconds, then finished tidying up everything else and went to bed. Next day I'm ready to start it and no fire. Turns out I have some bad/intermittent continuity on one of the 3 cam sensor wires.

Trying to access and replace the wires from the front engine harness is near-impossible to do in place, so I decided to rob the '98 harness and install on the '96. Pulling that crap out is a lot easier than reinstalling - especially behind the steering pump and alternator. At least it was freshly scrubbed with Simple Green, brushes, clear water and compressed air. All the connectors are the same, but the harness pigtails drape & route slightly different between them. After all was reconnected, I fired it up and ran it twice for about a minute each Saturday night, then twice on Sunday morning. I washed and oiled my K&N's for the first time in about 8+ years and completed the engine compartment assembly.

Last May at COTA, I broke a 4th gear trans synchro, so I bought a takeout spare from Mike to swap and run while repairing the broken one. I cleaned it up, put a new throwout bearing assembly and remote bleeder setup on it. I installed a new yoke seal and a 90* AN drain elbow and cap for the trans. All is ready to swap it out, but I'm out of time before my engine builder's new shop open house this weekend. At least it will drive so I can get a new inspection and license renewal this week. Trans can wait another week, or two.

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As usual, Deans write ups are the best!