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· Landscaping Professional
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That would be the one...
 
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Any words of wisdom on how to get the pump out past the brace with the underdrive pulley still in place? Heard it was “easy” to feed it out underneath the brace. My experience is not matching what I’ve read.

pulley is already off of the pump.
 

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Honestly, it's easier to just remove the cross brace. It's doable as that's how I've done it in the past. It's definitely a puzzle that requires some movement of the pump. I actually find it harder to get back in for some odd reason.
 
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Gas Machine Auto part Metal Titanium

Was able to get it through without taking off the brace. Just had to get creative with moving the belt tensioner and then going slowly the rest of the way. Supremely dreading getting the new pump in.

Now up close and personal with the weep hole. This looks like the telltale coolant trails from the failing bearing seal that Dean talked about.
 

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Well, at least you know for sure now it was a bad pump.
 
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Going back in was easier. As I saw the direction I should have gone when coming out. Anyone doing this, it can be done easily with the underdrive pulley and x-brace in. On exit, move the pump up toward the PS pulley so the lower hose inlets clear out from the tensioner. Then wiggle the impeller in the space between the underdrive pulley and the bottom of the PS pulley, and then you should be out. Reverse on entry.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Automotive lighting Automotive design
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I’m declaring victory on this. After many heat cycles and miles, coolant level in the secondary tank is stable. Y’all rule for the diagnosis help and parts supply. Special shout out to Mike for raising his hand up to tell me he had a rebuild pump and shipping out fast. Thanks everyone.
 

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And you got the VA discount too!!! Glad it worked and keep the dirty side down!!
 
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If the tank is empty then it's probably not this issue but, especially if you have a pre-99 car, I would check the oil to makes sure their is no coolant in it. It's not uncommon for the timing cover to develop an internal coolant leak to where it goes into the oil pan. Find that issue to late and it's new engine time.

I think it was 99 when that risk level changed.

I too think it's air in the system still but I wanted to offer up one other thing to check for, just in case.

Also, what temp setting is your HVAC system on? When trying to purge the coolant system it's critical you have that set fully to the right (warm side). In a Viper the AC/Heater will go off the heater or AC setting and not the temp dial. So you can still run cold AC with that dial set to full hot. I drive with mine in full hot setting 100% of the time to keep coolant flowing through the heater core too. If your dial is set to cold that make the air bubble possibility even greater IMHO.
So this is interesting to me.

Newbie owner here and I just had the coolant changed and silicone radiator hoses installed and ever since then my heat hasn't worked... EXCEPT for when i put it on defrost mode and have the temp dial turned to heat?

Similar to the OP, I also noticed that my primary reservoir had no coolant that I could see so I filled it up, haven't checked the secondary yet.

The shop i go to is known in DFW for working on vipers so i assume they did it right but maybe not?
 

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It's possible they didn't do it right but if they know Viper they should know to make sure both tanks are filled correctly. The system, when working correctly, self bleeds the air out. But if tank in the bumper ever goes empty or one of the hoses (one right off the tank under the hood is a common problem) isn't air tight it will introduce air vs purge it out.

For me, I've had a lot of good luck with the Lisle funnel (https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY). I fill the system, bleed out as much air as I can through the bleed screw on the thermostat housing and then let the car run to normal operating temp with the Lisle funnel installed and filled about half way. I can sit in the car and watch the air bubble out. That's always gotten me 95%+ of the way there. Then I just drive the car normally while keeping an eye on the overflow tank in the bumper (I keep it half full when cold). After a couple driving cycles it's normally done purging and things stay consistent from their.
 
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Just keep filling the primary reservoir until it no longer needs anymore fluid. Just check it prior to going for a spin. After a few drives it will require less and less until it remains full. Seriously, that's all I do anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
So this is interesting to me.

Newbie owner here and I just had the coolant changed and silicone radiator hoses installed and ever since then my heat hasn't worked... EXCEPT for when i put it on defrost mode and have the temp dial turned to heat?

Similar to the OP, I also noticed that my primary reservoir had no coolant that I could see so I filled it up, haven't checked the secondary yet.

The shop i go to is known in DFW for working on vipers so i assume they did it right but maybe not?
Also be aware that heat only works when the dial is on the right side…wherever the floor vent and defrost positions are. The other direction is cold air through the center console vents.
 

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Also be aware that heat only works when the dial is on the right side…wherever the floor vent and defrost positions are. The other direction is cold air through the center console vents.
Oh, wow. I did not know that, that's probably what the issue was then. Although my primary reservoir was also empty for some reason. I filled it up last weekend and will check again this coming to see if the coolant stayed inside.
 
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