I wasn't trained on any equipment. I learned it all through reading, reasoning, hands-on adjustment and road/track trials.
How radical you go with your alignment is directly related to how many miles you drive, how much camber thrust you are comfortable driving with, and how much tire wear you are willing to accept. I won't accept less than maximum tire life under ALL conditions - road or track. That's why I bought the tools to do it myself in the garage, or at the track.
You can run fairly aggressive camber all around and leave it there if you are willing to break down the tires off the rims and swap them across the car to even out the camber wear when you get several (4-8) thousand miles on them.
A very simple thing I do with my adjustable spring perches is to raise or lower the ride height by a few turns on each corner. People make an awful big fuss about bump steer, but if you're in the middle of the curves to start with, modest changes of ride height will give you the camber settings for most any driving situations with a minimum of lead time. All you have to do then is dial in the toe settings and you're good to go.