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is there any specific alignment setting i need to get done? /images/graemlins/gr_driving3.gif
 

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I'm on Eibachs too...What year is your car?!? Try these specs on if you're sporting a GenII...for the street:

Front
Camber: -1.3
Caster: +6.0
Total Toe: +0.12(+0.06 each side)

Rear
Camber: -1.1
Total Toe: +0.24(+0.12 each side)
 

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I arrived at my alignment settings based off the advice of a total track junky...GTS Dean...He knew I wanted settings to use on the street...maybe he will chime in!
 

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I am sure it will handle well with that much neg. camber in the front, but it will take out the inside of the tires.

It all comes down to what do you want, tire life or handling? If both I would back off on the camber a little.

But what do I know, I was only trained by Hunter Equipment. :nod: Makers of Hunter alignment machines, etc.



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I wasn't trained on any equipment. I learned it all through reading, reasoning, hands-on adjustment and road/track trials.

How radical you go with your alignment is directly related to how many miles you drive, how much camber thrust you are comfortable driving with, and how much tire wear you are willing to accept. I won't accept less than maximum tire life under ALL conditions - road or track. That's why I bought the tools to do it myself in the garage, or at the track.

You can run fairly aggressive camber all around and leave it there if you are willing to break down the tires off the rims and swap them across the car to even out the camber wear when you get several (4-8) thousand miles on them.

A very simple thing I do with my adjustable spring perches is to raise or lower the ride height by a few turns on each corner. People make an awful big fuss about bump steer, but if you're in the middle of the curves to start with, modest changes of ride height will give you the camber settings for most any driving situations with a minimum of lead time. All you have to do then is dial in the toe settings and you're good to go.
 

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This is true. I was just saying that those camber settings will cause faster inside tire wear.

What type of equipment do you have for your doing your alignment? I am looking into buying some just for "check-ups" on the car. I hate borrowing my friends rack or asking him to check it.

I have a friend who is a dealer for Hunter and he will do mine for free if I let him use the car for equipment demos. He usualy does this in Allentown Pa. wear he is based out of.

Only thing I disagree with you on is dismounting the tires to rotate. I was shown that once a tire takes a wear "set" it will always wear the same way. Meaning it will "lean" to the edge that already has the most wear on it.

If you were to rotate like this it would have to be done before any major wear has started to appear.

I run P-Zeros on my VR4 and expect to get about 35,000 miles out of them based on their wear rate so far.



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Jerome Sparich said:
One last ?

Do you scale the car after changing ride height?
Making equal numbers of turns keeps the weights reasonably close. If you run rubber bushings, or even delrin, there can be a substantial amount of sticktion in the links that affect repeatability of the weights.

I use the Smart Camber setup with the Maclanburg-Duncan Smart Tool inclinometer installed. The only accurate way to set rear caster is with the Dodge Viper Service Tools. I use a rotating laser to provide a consistent plane parallel to the car's centerline and measure toe off the rim. This saves the hassle of messing with strings.

[image]http://members.aol.com/gtsdean/photos/smrtcamb.jpg[/image]
 
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