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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I don't know where to start. But here goes.

Six years ago I bought mt 96 GTS. It had 11000 miles and was perfect. It now has 14000 miles. Yeah I know "drive the bitch" but that's part of the problem.

About three years ago I got stupid and attempted a burn out. Severe wheel hop and slight over rev.

Brought it home , raised it up and found I had cracked the bell housing. Got another one and while I was there changed the clutch for the hell of it.

Learned the mounts should be replaced and did that. Used wood house mounts. Buttoned everthing up and started it. This bitch vibrates so bad you can't touch the shifter. Saying WTF Got another set of poly mounts and put them in. Same shit. Took them out and put the original stock mounts back in. No vibration, happy days I thought.

Take the car out for a drive and at 3500 rpm guess what? This thing vibrates like a Hitachi.

Neutral or in gear (any gear) clutch in or out vibrates. Motor run fine, no noises, no misfires.

Now I'm not the manliest man but I'm not a puss either. When I say you can't hold the shifter I'm not exagerating. I've had solid mounts in cars before that never felt like this.
Just to be clear this a vibration not a shake. I'm out of ideas.
 

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Start over. pull trans out and check all the flywheel bolts, then torque all pressure plate bolts making sure the disk is aliened correctly. Bolt back in bellhousing and trans. I would not use Woodhouse unless you are going to wrap them with heat tape. They will melt. Poly's or OEM are better.
 

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Suspended by order of Blacksnake99
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You’ve got something else either damaged or installed improperly. As mentioned above, go back and double check all of your work. If that doesn’t lead you to it, check the rest of the driveline.
 

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Do you know if your car had both 998 and 999 frame recalls done? Severe wheel hop led to cracked or broken pinion mounting boss issues on a few cars.

I agree you need to start with a complete fresh re-torque of the fasteners. While the trans is out, I'd have the driveshaft checked for runout and inspect the diff mount areas very closely.
 

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does it vibrate at 3500 sitting in neutral?
as dean said check for cracking.
jack rear off ground and run the car. make sure one foot is on the brake ready. there is no load on the drivetrain but easier to try then removing and reinstalling tranny and getting the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
does it vibrate at 3500 sitting in neutral?
as dean said check for cracking.
jack rear off ground and run the car. make sure one foot is on the brake ready. there is no load on the drivetrain but easier to try then removing and reinstalling tranny and getting the same thing.
Vibrates at 3500 in neutral,in gear, clutch in, clutch out. Nothing really makes a difference.
 

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That sounds like clutch/FW/input shaft issues to me.
 

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Well shit. you stuck removing and tranny again. All things balanced (flywheel, pressure plate, etc)? They should be from manufacturer.
They should be, but it's not a guarantee. I put a crate motor and transmission in another car a few years back. Everything was fine till I was playing around and passed a Z06 at about 125 MPH. My car had a 700R4 trans. I kicked it into passing gear and heard a loud bang, no power to tires even though engine was still running. Coasted to side of road, looked under car, and see that the bell housing was completely broken off and separated from the block about 2-3" away. Brand new flex plate was out of balance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well it took awhile longer than I thought it would.
Wife was in the hospital for 10 days.
Got the flywheel balance checked it was good.
Said fuck it and ordered a new LUK clutch kit;
Broke the slave cylinder. Ordered a new one.
Got it all back together and still have slight vibration at the same RPM 10% of what it was before. I can rev through it.
Fuck it. I'm driving the bitch.
 

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Did you check the motor mounts? since you had the trans out, i'm sure that mount was good. But a bad motor mount will cause a vibration too.
 
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