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Ace Pounder
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
'01 GTS bumblebee, 15,000 miles. Mostly stock except for a few typical bolt-on items.

I'm trying to get a feel for what the vehicle should be worth (re. insurance payoff) Any info would be appreciated.
 

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Schadenfreude Connoisseur
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The way it is? Whats the condition of the "typical bolt-on items"? :lolcry:

I would expect the insurance company to pay around $60-65K
 

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Banned Since 2003
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oh now the fun really begins.

KBB.com rates your car at 54,165. It seems their figures are more in line than a year or two ago.

Before the #'s were very low compared to actual resale but it seems they are just about right now.
 

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Focus!
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I would shoot for a higher # then 54K - you purchased it new, right? I like what Jason said, shoot for 60-65 - all they can do is turn you down or bring the number down to something they like better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Smokin said:
The way it is? Whats the condition of the "typical bolt-on items"? :lolcry:
/images/graemlins/upyours Hey, wouldja like to come over and kick my dog too?
 

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Before the incident, I would peg the value in the mid $50s. The argument comes between your estimate of "retail" and their estimate of "wholesale." Ask SW what he thought it was worth. He's in the business.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Smokin said:
No, but I can come over and kick you in the nuts /images/graemlins/laughing.gif
How about if I come down to Houston and beat your heap to dust with a broken half-shaft, huh?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
GTS Dean said:
Before the incident, I would peg the value in the mid $50s. The argument comes between your estimate of "retail" and their estimate of "wholesale." Ask SW what he thought it was worth. He's in the business.
I'm afraid to. He'll call me bad names when he finds out what I've done. Although he probably already knows it ... Obi-SW-Kenobi no doubt felt a great cry of agony in the force when it hit the wall.
 

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SW is fast in everything he drives and he NEVER crashes. Maybe he got it out of his system early in life.
 

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I would think you could pull $55-60k out of them. Wholesale is high forties, but let them know that you can't buy wholesale. Make sure they pay you for TT&L! Negotiate that at the end, after you get a number nailed down on the car. It will be a pretty substantial chunk of change on a car that expensive. Good luck, and what the hell happened to you on Sunday? I saw you for 30 seconds and then you vanished!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I was there for the whole deal. Hung out in the stands with my daughter and spectated mostly. Cheered on your hambone 30 sec bye run into the finals. What a clown.
 

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Won't the insurance company just give you a number from some publication and expect you to accept it? Then you fight over the difference between expected and actual payout?

Thankfully, I have yet to experience this...
 

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SeriousEric said:
I was there for the whole deal. Hung out in the stands with my daughter and spectated mostly. Cheered on your hambone 30 sec bye run into the finals. What a clown.
It was 28 seconds! Get it straight! I think I coulda gone 27, but took my hand off to wave out the window and missed a shift! Oh well, maybe next time!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Cherm said:
Won't the insurance company just give you a number from some publication and expect you to accept it? Then you fight over the difference between expected and actual payout?

Thankfully, I have yet to experience this...
They'll throw me a number and then instantly demand salvage of the carcass ... That's where I refuse to release it to them until the number sounds right.
 

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Hey, SeriousEric..............
I'm a recently retired state licenced automoblile appraiser, and I've done work for nearly every ins. company in the world. I would recommend getting their HIGHEST offer, then offer to buy the car back from them for the salvage bid. (Salvage bid is what the ins. companies sell your car to the junkyard for) Normally, that figure is about 15% - 20% of ACV or Actual Cash Value. I/E...if your car is worth a realistic $55k, accept that offer, and then try to "buy it back" for about 10% of that figure, or $5500. Usually, they will go along with that, because they don't have to put the car out for bids, and it's a quick done deal. Also, many of the good adjustors will work with you.....and write the damage up to 70-80% of the value of the vehicle, give you a check for that amount, and let you keep the car. The beauty of this deal is that you keep the car with a clean title, which makes it very easy to sell !! I would also recommend printing out 4 or 5 comparable Viper ads, Autotrader.com, etc. This will give the adjustor a good idea of where he needs to be, and makes his job a bit easier. Easier is the operative word here....most of these guys are very lazy!! If you do part of their job for them, they'll treat you right.
Good luck, Viper Bro!! If you keep the car, let me know if you want to sell it...I may be insterested in a fixer-upper!! Denny
 

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Hey Eric, if you do get rid of the car, I need a new interior trim piece. Surely the ins co. won't notice if a few are missing!? :nod:


And I agree with Denny. Assuming you can house the poor car, buying it back from the insurance company gets you the farthest in the long run. You can part out the car, or sell it to someone to part out themselves, and combined with the money for the car you come out way ahead. Its just a little more effort.
 
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