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Some people take the info. from one dyno pull and hope that this info. will all come true during a 10 sec. blast down the dragstrip. Trust me, it never does. The dyno only tells the story of what your car does sitting still with no air flow and no load for about 7 second in 4th gear.

The dyno is just another tool to give you an indication on the direction you are going with your motor and its state of tune. When we dyno I just as interested in the shape of the curve as I am in the peak power numbers. If you can generate a curve that has strong average rwhp numbers from 4000-6000 rpm then you will see those results at the track.
 

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Different power adders have different pros/cons as they run down the track:

All motor is usually the most predictable and will be less prone to heat soak as opposed to a forced induction car.

Turbo cars with manual trans. usually make no boost off the starting line. And wont make their full power potential til they get a full load on the motor in 4th gear.

Blower cars generate the highest inlet air temps and will be the most prone to heat soak. They can also have belt slippage issues. They do make all their power right off the line.

NOS cars can have all kinds of dynamics of power as their bottles heat/cool and as they emtpy going down the track.

Start mixing and matching the above power adders and it gets real interesting. Throw in an auto trans. and it gets more interesting.
 

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The Dynojet actually measures rw hp and is able to interpolate that info. into torque via the corresponding rpm. F=ma or rw hp = the mass of the dyno roller x its acceleration.

Getting a great dyno queen number is only the first step in getting your car to go fast at the dragstrip or from a roll.
 
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