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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alarm stopped working...I replaced the battery in the transmitter, no response...

tried pressing both buttons simultaneously to reset alarm, no response

tried turning off alarm temporarily via valet key hole in glove box, no response

I can't get a response out of the alarm or car..

Can someone please tell me what I should do as I'm sure someone has encountered a problem similar to this. Thanks everyone.
 

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Do you mean the whole system is shut down or just the remote? Does the car turn over at all? Could be the car battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
corn,

car runs ine...I don't know if it's just the remote or the alarm in the car...is there a way to test if it is either/or? thanks...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
fuse is good.....forgot to mention that. sorry
 

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SS, had this copied down from a prior post.

Programming key fob
1. Ensure the alarm system is not armed.

2. (1996 ~ 1998 GEN II) Ground pin C13 loose green wire taped to harness of EEM connector, which is under dash mounted on the left side of trans tunnel, directly above accelerator. Easy access if you remove knee bolster and rubber bungee cord that holds EEM to tunnel.

2A. (1999 ~ 2000) As #2, but instead of C13 you're grounding Terminal 1 of the DLC. (since I have a 1996 GTS, I have no clue what a DLC is) DLC is the Data Link Connector, i.e. the under dash OBD2 connector which is above your left knee

2B. (ALL GEN I) Ground green "Program" Wire located next to SAM and RKE modules. Is a green wire with a bullet connector on end. Is located under driver's side instrument panel.

Hint, Make sure you're connecting to a solid body ground by testing it with an ohm meter.

3. Turn ignition to run position while green wire is still grounded!

4. EEM acknowledges entry into programming mode by flashing the dash LED. If it doesn't flash, you either:

- Have the wrong wire

- Aren't solidly grounded

- You came off ground after the ignition switch was placed in the run position. Start over.

5. (All GEN II) Press BOTH buttons on the transmitter simultaneously and continuously for 10 seconds. You will hear a triple horn chirp when FOB is accepted by the EEM.

5B. (All GEN I) Press and release the arm or disarm button on either FOB, then same for the next.

Hint: Make sure your transmitter is working, i.e fresh CR2032 battery $1.19 @ Zbattery.com and good clean battery contacts. Many times your problem is an electrically weak connection within the FOB itself.

6. You MUST program all FOBS during the same programming process. You can program up to 4 on a GEN II and I think only 2 on a GEN I.

That's it. Turn the ignition off and remove green wire from ground, then test the arm and disarm functions.
 

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According to my 2000 manual, "Ground C13 of EEM J3 connector (6inch green pigtail wire located at EEM)"

You have 60 sec between FOBs or you have to start over (out of synch).

You can push either button for 10 seconds during the programming.

Causes for going out of synch: Pushing a fob button while disconnecting battery or power to EEM, Pressing both buttons for 5 sec while out of range or when power has been disconnected from EEM., pressing fob button >255 times when out of range or when power disconnected, taking a fob apart (and putting it back together) and pushing the button >10 times when power disconnected.

Has someone been playing with their buttons?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'll give it a shot....
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
alarm worky now, thanks everyone...appeared as if I needed to to reset it about 3 times??????????????????????????? I unplug the fuse, put it back, reset it a few times, replaced battery in remote, etc. Finally did the trick.
 
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