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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My dr door needs a lot of TLC. The window and latches work ok but the outer stanchion while nice on the outside was only held on the door by the plastic door handle nut. All three original nutserts had come loose and one was missing. The window seal was missing but later found inside the door. The old glue will be removed from both pieces to reattach it. I’ll be using 10-24 T-nuts glued to the 3 inside stanchion locations per the pic below. I’ll keep y’all posted how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I plan on doing the same with a 2 part high psi machinable epoxy or try to 3D print one on my cheap 3D printer.
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I’ll be using JB Weld’s Plasticweld for gluing all of the items. Problem is we have a heat index in the upper 90’s with lots of humidity here and this stuff stinks like rotten eggs while it’s curing. A cold front tonight will bring much cooler temps tomorrow. I’ll be ready to bond every thing then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
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The top image shows the old nutserts and the 10/24 T-nuts I’m using. The flat surface of the OEM one goes up against a sail like vertical sheet metal piece on the door with three larger thru holes for the two screws connecting the two stanchions. This is so when tightened, it would prevent stressing or worse cracking the outer stanchion. On the right side you can see that the OEM ones can’t be reused since the brittle 20 yr old plastic on the stanchion is cracked and gone. The lower pic shows the cut down T-nut next to the OEM nutsert where I’m using the spikes to dupe the function of the plate on the old ones. Make sure to completely wrap the glossy part of the outer stanchion in painters tape while you’re removing old glue, prepping, sanding and to keep glue from getting on it. The epoxy chemically melts the plastics to ‘weld’ them together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Isn't the difficulty not with the plastic part of the stanchion and more with the weather stripping?
Yes! That is why you need JB weld’s Plasticweld, a two part epoxy specifically for all types of plastics that chemically welds them together. I found the grey traces of regular JB weld, super glue and even RTV when prepping mine. None of them will permanently bond to the stanchion’s ABS and the weather strip’s hard plastic seam.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
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Update: Bonded the t-nuts yesterday and they are solid! Just glued and clamped the window seal to the stanchion today. Although packaging says it can be handled in an hour I’m leaving it clamped for 24 hrs to make sure it is fully cured. Not wanting to do this again except on the pass side which was also loose when I bought the car.
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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Some background info: I tediously scraped all of the remnants of old adhesives from the surfaces.
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Caution: There should be some nubs on the stanchion that fit into the little obround holes (shown above) in the weather seal. Be careful not to cut these off when removing old adhesives and sanding since they help align the two pieces. I used 100 grit sand paper on both surfaces to rough them up for the adhesive to bond to them. I then used Googone Pro-power remover to remove whatever adhesive residue remained. Finally, I used isopropyl alcohol to get both totally clean prior to mixing and applying adhesive. Do a dry run with plenty of clamps so you know what you’re doing and have them ready since the 2 part adhesive will start hardening fast once you stir them in a disposable cup. I used a plastic shot glass to mix them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
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The finished outer stanchion ready to go back on the door. Inside view and also screwed to the inner stanchion. I have some minor work to do to tie the outer stanchion top rubber piece to the inner stanchion window seal once both are secured to the door. Now next is the pass side. Any questions just ask.
Cheers! 🍻
 
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