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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My dr door needs a lot of TLC. The window and latches work ok but the outer stanchion while nice on the outside was only held on the door by the plastic door handle nut. All three original nutserts had come loose and one was missing. The window seal was missing but later found inside the door. The old glue will be removed from both pieces to reattach it. I’ll be using 10-24 T-nuts glued to the 3 inside stanchion locations per the pic below. I’ll keep y’all posted how it goes.
 

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Join the club. I lot of us are in the same situation. Some have put deposits on repos but that has been 2+ years in the making and still 0 produced plus not cheap.

So for future people:
If you lost the window seal, first check inside the door panel. High probability it has fallen in there.

I plan on doing the same with a 2 part high psi machinable epoxy or try to 3D print one on my cheap 3D printer.
 

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Mark's Meritorious Service Award ceremony is in the planning stages as he bravely works alone through this harrowing mission.
 

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I have the absolute tops in terms of 3d printers-multiple MJF 5210 machines if anyone wants to deep dive.

I can, and will make these parts, but need some stanchions to 3d scan and reverse engineer.

Another member here said he would send me stanchions, but he has went MIA on the topic.

The prints I produce are similar to injection molds. They won't be a gloss black, but they'll look nice, a smooth satin black.
 

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Isn't the difficulty not with the plastic part of the stanchion and more with the weather stripping?
 
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Isn't the difficulty not with the plastic part of the stanchion and more with the weather stripping?
Right but let's say you can 3D print your own piece with its own unique style of attachments that is more common and easier to be replaced. Maybe some sort of hook and slide at the top so when they separate with the 3M, they can just be unhooked with the door open and pulled up and out.

I see a lot of utility and 3D printing. You could even 3D print a sanction that's two piece so that you can separate it at the door top and create a serviceable piece.

Only your imagination limits you.

Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I plan on doing the same with a 2 part high psi machinable epoxy or try to 3D print one on my cheap 3D printer.
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I’ll be using JB Weld’s Plasticweld for gluing all of the items. Problem is we have a heat index in the upper 90’s with lots of humidity here and this stuff stinks like rotten eggs while it’s curing. A cold front tonight will bring much cooler temps tomorrow. I’ll be ready to bond every thing then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
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The top image shows the old nutserts and the 10/24 T-nuts I’m using. The flat surface of the OEM one goes up against a sail like vertical sheet metal piece on the door with three larger thru holes for the two screws connecting the two stanchions. This is so when tightened, it would prevent stressing or worse cracking the outer stanchion. On the right side you can see that the OEM ones can’t be reused since the brittle 20 yr old plastic on the stanchion is cracked and gone. The lower pic shows the cut down T-nut next to the OEM nutsert where I’m using the spikes to dupe the function of the plate on the old ones. Make sure to completely wrap the glossy part of the outer stanchion in painters tape while you’re removing old glue, prepping, sanding and to keep glue from getting on it. The epoxy chemically melts the plastics to ‘weld’ them together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Isn't the difficulty not with the plastic part of the stanchion and more with the weather stripping?
Yes! That is why you need JB weld’s Plasticweld, a two part epoxy specifically for all types of plastics that chemically welds them together. I found the grey traces of regular JB weld, super glue and even RTV when prepping mine. None of them will permanently bond to the stanchion’s ABS and the weather strip’s hard plastic seam.
 

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Seals can be printed from another material. Although, not doing that would certainly be optimal, as it's WAY more expensive than utilizing something existing.

If you guys want this method to move forward, bug away to whoever has a stanchion! I would like to get one in hand, scan, reverse engineer, then figure out how we can optimize for existing seals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
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Update: Bonded the t-nuts yesterday and they are solid! Just glued and clamped the window seal to the stanchion today. Although packaging says it can be handled in an hour I’m leaving it clamped for 24 hrs to make sure it is fully cured. Not wanting to do this again except on the pass side which was also loose when I bought the car.
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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Some background info: I tediously scraped all of the remnants of old adhesives from the surfaces.
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Caution: There should be some nubs on the stanchion that fit into the little obround holes (shown above) in the weather seal. Be careful not to cut these off when removing old adhesives and sanding since they help align the two pieces. I used 100 grit sand paper on both surfaces to rough them up for the adhesive to bond to them. I then used Googone Pro-power remover to remove whatever adhesive residue remained. Finally, I used isopropyl alcohol to get both totally clean prior to mixing and applying adhesive. Do a dry run with plenty of clamps so you know what you’re doing and have them ready since the 2 part adhesive will start hardening fast once you stir them in a disposable cup. I used a plastic shot glass to mix them.
 

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Outstanding process and documentation!
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
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The finished outer stanchion ready to go back on the door. Inside view and also screwed to the inner stanchion. I have some minor work to do to tie the outer stanchion top rubber piece to the inner stanchion window seal once both are secured to the door. Now next is the pass side. Any questions just ask.
Cheers! 🍻
 

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I don't mean to derail the thread, but if anyone needs a mint, passenger side stanchion with perfect seals, I listed one a few days ago. It was taken off my GTS under warranty in 1996 (Yeah, they were a crappy design even when new). Comes with the window-to-door belt line seal included. Lots of detail photos in the listing. Thanks, Steve
 
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