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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
has anyone gotten the front fascia resprayed? If so, what kinda moolah are we talking here. I realize it varies, but ballpark figures anyone?
 

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$150 - painted from the "seam" down. No bodywork required - just touching up some scratches. I was also getting my sidesills done too though ($300 per side) so I guess they already had the paint and materials handy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
srt mike, thanks, I plan on getting my side sills done as well. Shit that gets costly.
 

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Actually I forgot to mention I had a "ding" in my right sidesill, so their price included fixing that. It was $300 for the right sill, I belive they charged me $150 for the other sill, and $150 for the fascia. All together it came to about $600 or so.

Thing is, this was a reputable shop, supposedly one of the best around. Bad thing is the morons didn't put the flex agent (or didn't use enough) and within 2 months my front fascia had quarter-sized divots of paint flaking off. Of course they re-did it no charge, but MAKE SURE you tell them you are the pickiest SOB they will EVER see and you MUST have it perfect or you will be back /images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'll just show them your avatar and they'll know just how serious I am!!!!!!
How would you feel about using the dealership? As you may have read in previous threads, my relationship with them is abnormal...it's incredibly good. they have closed the service for me for alone time with me and the tech, they've given me new parts for everything I've questioned and filed the warranty...so I do trust them.
 

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Makaha said:
I'll just show them your avatar and they'll know just how serious I am!!!!!!
How would you feel about using the dealership? As you may have read in previous threads, my relationship with them is abnormal...it's incredibly good. they have closed the service for me for alone time with me and the tech, they've given me new parts for everything I've questioned and filed the warranty...so I do trust them.
My experience is a good shop can do bad work and vice versa... so unless you have heard anything bad, I'd be up for giving them a shot.

Thing is - I would make sure I got the guy doing the painting and the manager of the body shop, and I would bring them to my car and say "see the glossy paint? See how it's glass-smooth with no overspray, no drip marks... even when I look underneath or behind the panel or when I run my hands over it, it's glass smooth? that's how it needs to look when it's done, or it's coming back".

Just set expectations. To be honest, I have *never* had body work done I was satisfied with - ever. To me, good bodywork is the same as it was from the factory, and Vipers are exceptionally good. Most body guys rush, and there is always something that goes wrong - whether it's overspray, runs, bad masking or whatever. Just tell them you want it "show car perfect" and they should do a job as good as if it was their own car. And make sure they know you're a picky bastard and you WILL take it under a flourescent light and look at EVERY SQUARE MILLIMETER of the paint and if there is ONE SPECK of dust embedded in it, they can start over.

Also tell them you'll pay for quality... if they dont' want the job, then you have your answer /images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I will go to clayton. I was going to go across the street to dodge, but if you guys say clayton is good, he's close to me. will he need to have my car for a weekend or so?
 

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SRT Mike-Sprayed a lot of cars have you? I don't know anyone that uses flex agent with a urtehane base/clear system. Sounds like bad surface prep. Note if you hit something it will flake not matter what. It's OK to be picky, just expect to pay for perfection.
 

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dansauto said:
SRT Mike-Sprayed a lot of cars have you? I don't know anyone that uses flex agent with a urtehane base/clear system. Sounds like bad surface prep. Note if you hit something it will flake not matter what. It's OK to be picky, just expect to pay for perfection.
When I took it back, the guy who owned the shop (a fellow Viper guy) told me that the guy who sprayed it must have forgotten to put the flex agent in. What do I know? But nothing was ever hit after painting.... I took it to get sprayed because I hit a raccoon on the highway and the clearcoat was all spiderweb-cracked.

Regarding use of flex agent, several people would seem to disagree with you:

http://www.autobodypro.com/wwwboard/messages/5370.shtml
(tech rep for paint company recommending use of flex agent in urethane paint)

http://www.crestauto.com/products/paints.htm
(Crest Auto flex agent for urethane paints)

So obviously some are doing it. I don't know what paint was used, but I believe it was Sikkens (and some of their paints are said to have the flex stuff in it already - again just what I've read). Bottom line is the paint flaked off, and whether it was due to bad surface prep or failure to use an additive, it meant it needed re-done and was a pain in the ass for me. I still think anyone that is an automotive painter and can't paint a bumper without the paint flaking off is a moron /images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

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If you can get the work done for as cheaply as Mike did then you're doing pretty good. Prep is 90% of a good paint job and to do it right is a lot of work. Finishing is the remaining 10% and somewhere in between is the application which is negligible.

Done correctly it's a lot of work.
 

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dansauto said:
SRT Mike-Sprayed a lot of cars have you? I don't know anyone that uses flex agent with a urtehane base/clear system. Sounds like bad surface prep. Note if you hit something it will flake not matter what. It's OK to be picky, just expect to pay for perfection.
Dan, I assume you use DuPont paint.
Log onto their website and pull up the 'painting plastic or semi-flexable parts'

They list a series of products for their ChromaSystem urethane finishes applied on semi-flexible parts.
Plas-stick 2350S Flex additive - is listed as a flex-additive for use in
undercoat, single stage & clearcoat products applied over semi-flexible and
fully flexible plastic parts.
Plas-stick 2360S - flexible matting additive for ChromaClear (clear-coat)
said to 'flexibilize' the clearcoat so it will withstand light impacts without
cracking.

I understand what you are saying about general guidelines on auto finishes
not mentioning a 'flex' additive - because in most cases if you prep the
surface right and incorporate the right amount of reducer/activator, watch
the temperature of part and paint, etc - THEN you probably could get by
without any other additive.
But I had to post this to set the record straight. /images/graemlins/supergrin.gif
 

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I had mine done (I took the facia off the car and reinstalled it), lots of prep work. Total cost was $380. Too bad a week after I got it back on, I scaped it again :pissed: :pissed:
 

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no I use PPG DBC and PPG Global. They offer a flex agent, but it is "not recommended on multiple coats over plastic. (so you would have to strip all the paint before refinishing) It also may cause slight discolor. The bumper cover is urthane, the paint is urethane. It will not flake off it preped correctly using a 100% urethane system. Flex agents were developed in the 70's when they began using hard plastics on cars in combination with single stage catalized enamel. The enamel was so brittle it craked easily when the plasic flexed under it. The only time I have used flex additive is when I painted a plastic windshield on a yamaha R1. The guy wanted it the same color as the bike. This is a "hard plastic part not urethane. I think DC factory does use a "slow dry" or flex agent in the paint, but then they bake the finish for flow out, so the added benefit is deleted. I went to the Corvette tour in bowling green and they were doing the same on the C4's
 
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