EVAP Purge Monitor Failure

3867 Views 21 Replies 8 Participants Last post by CottonMouth, Jul 15, 2012

Silver Snake

Discussion Starter · Apr 30, 2004

This is the code that set off my check engine light. I believe this
is the second time. The first time the light came on it was the
same thing, if not something similar, however, the code and light
were cleared and now a month later it's back. Anyone have any idea
what this is? It is at the dealer right now and they say the front
facia has to come off in order for them to proceed. Everything will
be covered under warranty as long as the problem ends up being an
item covered, otherwise I gotta pay over $400 for this. Thanks.

Mark

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Gerald

· #2 · Apr 30, 2004

mine came on once. Takes about 20 mins to take fascia off. I noticed a hose came off on the EVAP.. Put it back on, cleared the code and all's well. This is definatley something you can check yourself and not have your car held up in the shop all day or a couple days..

G

Smokin

· #3 · Apr 30, 2004

Ive thrown this code before. pulled the inside access cover off from inside the wheel wells, reached in there (its VERY TIGHT) and reconnected the hose.

txlen

· #4 · Apr 30, 2004

or if thats tite check your gas cap!!!..i've seen a bad cap throw the same code!!!...jus my 2cents here....

Silver Snake

Discussion Starter · #5 · Apr 30, 2004

Thanks for the help so far. Here is the actual code.

P0441 - EVAP PURGE MONITOR FLOW FAILURE

I guess there is a solenoid that purges the fuel vapor into the
intake and then checks the O2 sensors to verify the vapor got
released into the intake or not. John Hine thinks that it is either
the solenoid that is not working or there is a leak in one of the
hoses got to or from the solenoid. I asked them to manually
activate the solenoid to see if they could hear it. They are going
to get back to me.

So, what do you all think about this. Could it still be the gas
cap, or should I let them pull the nose off the car and find a
cracked or leaky hose (that is not covered under warranty). Is it
likely that it is the solenoid (that is covered under warranty)?

Also, if you could give me more detailed instructions on how to fix this myself via the access hole OR by removing the front facia.

Thanks again.
Mark

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txlen

· #6 · Apr 30, 2004

i'd pull the acsess cover in frt of the left frt tire and reach in and see if you have a hose off or a connector loose or fell off the pump or solenoid..if you don't feel anything take the gas cap to your dealer and ask them to test it real quick...takes about 10 mins...if it's ok take the nose off the car...5 bolts in frt of each wheel and bolts under the frt bumper behind the lower air dam..then pull the clips between the headlites with the hood slightly open and pull forward...prob have to start with one sire or the other and work your way around the frt..have a friend help you...it's a little easier so you don't drop it and scratch the facia...then you'll be pissd!!..lol....lemme know if you see a hose or anything off...it's usually the purge solenoid..not the pump...if no hoses are loose or anything...Len

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Silver Snake

Discussion Starter · #7 · Apr 30, 2004

Thank you very much for your help. I will take these steps over the weekend.

Mark
/images/graemlins/smiles

txlen said:
i'd pull the acsess cover in frt of the left frt tire and reach in and see if you have a hose off or a connector loose or fell off the pump or solenoid..if you don't feel anything take the gas cap to your dealer and ask them to test it real quick...takes about 10 mins...if it's ok take the nose off the car...5 bolts in frt of each wheel and bolts under the frt bumper behind the lower air dam..then pull the clips between the headlites with the hood slightly open and pull forward...prob have to start with one sire or the other and work your way around the frt..have a friend help you...it's a little easier so you don't drop it and scratch the facia...then you'll be pissd!!..lol....lemme know if you see a hose or anything off...it's usually the purge solenoid..not the pump...if no hoses are loose or anything...Len

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GTS Dean

· #8 · May 1, 2004

The canister was moved to the rear bumper in '00 or '01. If it's working, you should hear a light "tock-tock-tock-tock-tock" coming from either the left front or the rear.

Silver Snake

Discussion Starter · #9 · May 1, 2004

txlen said:
i'd pull the acsess cover in frt of the left frt tire and reach in and see if you have a hose off or a connector loose or fell off the pump or solenoid..if you don't feel anything take the gas cap to your dealer and ask them to test it real quick...takes about 10 mins...if it's ok take the nose off the car...5 bolts in frt of each wheel and bolts under the frt bumper behind the lower air dam..then pull the clips between the headlites with the hood slightly open and pull forward...prob have to start with one sire or the other and work your way around the frt..have a friend help you...it's a little easier so you don't drop it and scratch the facia...then you'll be pissd!!..lol....lemme know if you see a hose or anything off...it's usually the purge solenoid..not the pump...if no hoses are loose or anything...Len

Ok, so I have the access cover pulled off and the fog light blank as well. I can feel all around inside there and everything seems ok. The problem is, I have no idea what I am looking for. Besides the obvious.

If anyone here can help me out at this point I would greatly appreciate it. I am about to pull off the front facia to have a better look. It seems like if you could remove the headlight assembly you would have a bird's eye view of the thing, but I have no idea how to remove that.

I will check this thread now and then. Otherwise perhaps someone wouldn't mind calling me. 858-735-9230

Thanks

Mark
/images/graemlins/smiles

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txlen

· #10 · May 2, 2004

lol...mark...don't remove the headlite...if ya do you're in for more work than you believe..go ahead and remove the frt facia..

Silver Snake

Discussion Starter · #11 · May 2, 2004

txlen said:
lol...mark...don't remove the headlite...if ya do you're in for more work than you believe..go ahead and remove the frt facia..

I pulled the facia off earlier today. I noticed the solenoid was mounted upside down. Thus the connections going to the solenoid were upside down. There
are two hoses that connect to the solenoid they were backward.
Anyway, I remounted the solenoid and reconnected the hoses. We will
see tomorrow if that was the problem.

Thanks for all the help everyone.

Mark
/images/graemlins/smiles

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Drlee50

· #12 · Jul 14, 2012

Bringing this back to the top. I have my purge valve off. I am trying to determine how it's supposed to be connected. Mine just had one air line attached. Doesn't look right...

Mine is set up like so:
The hard line from the rear, attached to the leak detection pump and canister I assume, comes forward and had a rubber line attached to it that ends in the green screw on access fitting . That rubber hose had a Tee installed in it and that tee went into the purge valve, into the VAC side. The other side of the solenoid was open to the atmosphere. Doesn't seem correct. Anyone have a picture of theirs with the lines attached factory style??? My Chrysler service manual has just one picture in it and it looks like only one line goes into the solenoid , perhaps from the intake, and the line from the rear isn't attached at all to the solenoid. That can't be right.
Help! Trying to pass emissions
Thanks

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GTS Dean

· #13 · Jul 14, 2012

I think the line from the rear goes to the canister. Then, there should be one from the canister to the solenoid, and out from there to a tee between the TBs into the intake.

Drlee50

· #14 · Jul 14, 2012

Thanks dean. That's how I just put it back together. I just stuck it to one side of the intake, not both though. I was wondering why there were so many ports on the intake not used! Lol
I'll have to go drive it tonight when kids go to bed and hope she clears that obd readiness code.
Thanks !

GTS Dean

· #15 · Jul 14, 2012

It probably splits to both sides so one bank doesn't run rich and screw up the adaptives.

Drlee50

· #16 · Jul 14, 2012

GTS Dean said:
It probably splits to both sides so one bank doesn't run rich and screw up the adaptives.

I have the extra line and a tee so I'll split it

Do you think boost going from the intake to that solenoid, and thus, the fuel tank, will be a problem? should I put in a one way valve, or does that solenoid need to see the VAC to prevent a code?

GTS Dean

· #17 · Jul 14, 2012

I suggest re-reading the tank pressure thread. If you aren't boosting, it shouldn't be a problem.

VIPERRACING

· #18 · Jul 14, 2012 (Edited)

How about just bypassing the entire evap system if possible??? Im getting code p1494 after having UGR's 3 pump fuel system installed and my tank is pressurizing so badly that its spitting HOT BOILING fuel out of the filler neck all over my paint.

GTS Dean

· #19 · Jul 15, 2012

Because the pumps never stop running, they never rest and they get hot. If you have 2 or 3 pumps, they make that many times the heat. The fuel is supposed to cool the pump, but that isn't happening. Since everyone shitcans the evap control system and plugs all the lines, hot fuel makes lots of vapor pressure and it has no way to dissipate. The safety pressure bypass vent in the gas cap is keeping things from blowing up.

What's needed is a functioning evap control system and demand-driven fuel booster pumps. It isn't that hard to figure out.

Drlee50

· #20 · Jul 15, 2012

I have triple pumps too and I'm not having that problem...yet. Never had the system connected to my intake tho. That's why I asked about the one way valve. I run about 11-12 psi boost.

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