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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Getting the little lightning bolt indicator, and then the car will not go above 3000rpm...but it is erratic as when it happens. I bought a new battery as the one in the car was pretty old and it needed to be replaced soon anyway thinking that maybe it could be relted. Have not driven the car since changing the battery but was wondering if the automatic shutdown relay could also be a culprit?

The other day the car started up fine, ran about a block or so and started acting up with the indicator light showing up. Then it went away and drove fine for about 1/2 hour. All of a sudden it started to do the same thing again. Stock car with the exception of prefix Mopar performance PCM which has been in place for years with no problems.

When I swapped the battery I did a throttle relearn, and the car fired up fine. Just asking in case I take it out and it acts up again to any other possible things that would cause this?
 

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Buy a scan tool that shows live data!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Buy a scan tool that shows live data!
I got one...will have to take it for a drive with it plugged in. Just thought it might be something that is a known issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So here is the dealio...

Replaced the battery, and did the throttle relearn.
Car fired up, and ran great for about 1 hour...and then...

The lightning bolt thingy came on after the car bucked a few times.
The check engine light came on just before I was pulling in the driveway.
Grabbed the OBD tool and got the following codes...

P0562 - PCM detects low voltage

P0335 - PCM fails to detect crankshaft sensor A

P0337 - Crankshaft sensor A low input

P0338 - Crankshaft sensor A high input

P0339 - Crankshaft sensor A intermittent

P2104 - Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Engine Idle

Car only has 8300 miles on it.

Only mod is Mopar performance PCM.

Battery is at 12.6 volts, and alternator is putting out 14.5 volts.

So is this a crankshaft sensor issue?
 

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I would recheck the battery, battery cables, and grounds...

If its a AGM battery take it back and get it checked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Replaced the crankshaft position sensor, took for a drive and no more issues. Took 10 min. to replace, and having a lift made that possible. I do not think it can be changed without a lift as it is tucked just behind the header on the right side of the motor. $16.00 part and all better now so far.
 

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You should see the crank sensor signal bouncing. Bunch of codes pointing to the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You should see the crank sensor signal bouncing. Bunch of codes pointing to the issue.
You would have thought? Car would drive fine with no issues for about 1/2 hour, the car would start bucking, lightning bolt thingy popped up limiting the car to 2K rpms. Then the check engine light would come on. I think there was also a problem with the ASD relay as when I checked the relay the prongs were discolored as in they had been heated. They were blueish on some of the prongs where they met at the relay itself.

If you look at the host of codes at the beginning of this thread I think it was partially the ASD relay and partially the crankshaft sensor. Wires were fine going to the crankshaft sensor as the whole sensor and wiring is protected by a flexible heat shield. I have read the ASD relay can cause some weird shit as far as codes and how the car can run. I first replaced the ASD relay and ran the car after clearing the codes, and the car ran fine for 20min...started bucking, lightning bolt indicator came on, and the check engine light.

After the ASD relay was changed then there was only 1 code that was popping up, and that 1 code pointed to the crankshaft sensor...P0339 - Crankshaft sensor A intermittent. There were no other codes showing up as I noted in the previous post above. So after changing the ASD relay I went from multiple fault codes to just 1 fault code. Replaced the crankshaft position sensor and then had no codes. Ran the piss out of the car for about 1/2 hour and it ran great.
 

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Easy to catch on a scan tool with live data. On an instance like that, I would put my scan tool into movie mood. Soon as it starts happening, I hit the button, and it starts recording that instant. Saves from constantly watching while driving. Then go back and look at the recorded sensor graphs.
 
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