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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
take a look at my setup. im gonna post a pic tonite of it along with the dyno sheet. but here is a description of the plumbing at the rear of the car..

2-10 lb bottles,each have a 6" -4 braided line to a -4 "Y",1- 5" -4 braided line to a blue manifold that has the transducer,to another manifold that has the gauge, to the 5" long NX filter out to the -4 main line that has a slight bend in it, straight under the car thru the intake and under the solenoid.
coming out are 2 -4 braided lines to the shark nozzles.

602/820 on first pull with a really rich A/F. the initial hit had a big, quick drop in power & A/F got richer

we installed a 32 fuel jet and took out a ton of fuel at the injectors. sean roe thought we should have put in a bigger nitrous jet. it seems to be starving for fuel. unless i have a major amount of fuel which aint likely.

ended up at 554/700 and a A/F of 10.8

what do you guys think of my loss in power? is the problem in this area or a solenoid. im also thinking maybe a voltage drop??? id like to get it back over 600/800 but i need to figure this problem out first.
 

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Do you have a nitrous pressure gauge mounted to a junction block on
the front of the motor - to verify the pressure is the same as off the bottle?
Fuel = HP ..... so maybe Sean's advice to up the nitrous is the best call.
 

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How full are the nitrous bottles? What is the pressure reading at the bottles?
Are you using bottle heaters? Can you hear the solenoids click when power is
applied. If the electrical connections are good and the wire is equal gauge
as that on the solenoids, and the power tap is within 6' - there should be
negligible power drop. How about the ground connections?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
gauge is at the back of the car. reading a steady 925-950 the whole time. im thinking of installing a gauge soon that reads off the front near the solenoid.

yes, solenoids work fine it seems, wire is same gauge,lead is less than 6' away. ground is on the engine near the front. seems ok. heaters are working.

spoke to josh at nitrous express today and he agreed with sean and said i should go up to a 57 on the nitrous jet since i have no fuel problems and can obviously use more nitrous. next time on the dyno im gonna try that out and see what happens.

i guess if ya have to have a problem with this stuff i have a good problem in too much fuel..:)
 

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Because you asked......

Whollllly Gadgets Batboy!!!!

Every time you insert a fitting downstream from the bottle you create a
restriction, which can reduce pressure. I count 9 Freakin fittings in the
above picture....who knows whats further downstream.

A few FREE Suggestions from a dumbass nitrous dealer with no knowledge of
how to go fast.......

1. Remove the "t" fitting and connect your lines to ONE bottle at a time
you can only use one bottle anyway.

2. Mount the pressure gauge on the valve of the bottle neck and remove that
adapter.

3. Mount the pressure switch directly onto the NX bottle adapter nut using
the # 4 fitting that it is currently attached to. This will eliminate all
of the fittings in your picture except for the filter.

4. Use ONE 16' Feed line and route it FORWARD to the front of the car..your
current set up has the nitrous traveling backwards, then forwards....??? looks
neat works shitty.

5. Route main feed line to solenoid under the car...AWAY FROM THE HEAT OF THE
ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE.....HOT nitrous will not perform
as well.

6. IN THE EVENT THAT YOU ARE IN LOVE WITH THE NASA SETUP THAT YOU HAVE,
CHECK PRESSURE BY MOUNTING A NITROUS GAUGE AT THE SOLENOID AND FLOW TEST THE
SYSTEM THROUGH THE NITROUS JETS WHILE READING THE GAUGE THAT IS LOCATED AT
THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE!!! DO THIS TEST AT NORMAL ENGINE TEMPERATURE..WITH
THE ENGINE OFF OF COURSE.

Also, the filter must be checked often. THE NITROUS SOLENOID HAS A FILTER
INSIDE OF THE "IN" PORT THAT IS RARELY CHECKED. THIS FILTER WILL CLOG WITH
DEBRIS, ESPECIALLY IF THE LINES ARE NOT CLEANED OUT PROPERLY BEFORE THE INITIAL
INSTALLATION. THIS IS A HIDDEN KILLER OF PERFORMANCE. A 25% CLOG OF THIS FILTER SCREEN WILL SEVERELY IMPACT PERFORMANCE!!

On a sidenote; my Viper which a few weeks ago made 805 RWHP and 1033 RWTQ
uses the exact setup that I described above. It uses NX shark nozzles with
a single # 4 feed line. The car makes about 510 RWHP on motor. There should be no excuses with regards to system performance..simple fluid dynamics and electricity.

Best of luck
 

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ViperJEDI said:
Because you asked......

Whollllly Gadgets Batboy!!!!

Every time you insert a fitting downstream from the bottle you create a
restriction, which can reduce pressure. I count 9 Freakin fittings in the
above picture....who knows whats further downstream.

A few FREE Suggestions from a dumbass nitrous dealer with no knowledge of
how to go fast.......

1. Remove the "t" fitting and connect your lines to ONE bottle at a time
you can only use one bottle anyway.

2. Mount the pressure gauge on the valve of the bottle neck and remove that
adapter.

3. Mount the pressure switch directly onto the NX bottle adapter nut using
the # 4 fitting that it is currently attached to. This will eliminate all
of the fittings in your picture except for the filter.

4. Use ONE 16' Feed line and route it FORWARD to the front of the car..your
current set up has the nitrous traveling backwards, then forwards....??? looks
neat works shitty.

5. Route main feed line to solenoid under the car...AWAY FROM THE HEAT OF THE
ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE.....HOT nitrous will not perform
as well.

6. IN THE EVENT THAT YOU ARE IN LOVE WITH THE NASA SETUP THAT YOU HAVE,
CHECK PRESSURE BY MOUNTING A NITROUS GAUGE AT THE SOLENOID AND FLOW TEST THE
SYSTEM THROUGH THE NITROUS JETS WHILE READING THE GAUGE THAT IS LOCATED AT
THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE!!! DO THIS TEST AT NORMAL ENGINE TEMPERATURE..WITH
THE ENGINE OFF OF COURSE.

Also, the filter must be checked often. THE NITROUS SOLENOID HAS A FILTER
INSIDE OF THE "IN" PORT THAT IS RARELY CHECKED. THIS FILTER WILL CLOG WITH
DEBRIS, ESPECIALLY IF THE LINES ARE NOT CLEANED OUT PROPERLY BEFORE THE INITIAL
INSTALLATION. THIS IS A HIDDEN KILLER OF PERFORMANCE. A 25% CLOG OF THIS FILTER SCREEN WILL SEVERELY IMPACT PERFORMANCE!!

On a sidenote; my Viper which a few weeks ago made 805 RWHP and 1033 RWTQ
uses the exact setup that I described above. It uses NX shark nozzles with
a single # 4 feed line. The car makes about 510 RWHP on motor. There should be no excuses with regards to system performance..simple fluid dynamics and electricity.

Best of luck

You need to listen as the master has spoke. :bowdown:
After reading BTR TOM's reply I think that you need to start at the beginning again. Trash what you have installed and do exactly how the instructions from Tom's post read.
:thumb:
 

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I think I would ditch the nitrous filter too....wait, I know I would ditch it. Did you use any teflon tape to seal anything ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
tony, no teflon tape. i also thought of ditching the filter...thanx.

the only reason i ran the main line it is, because of the length of it. it does go under the car like jedi said, away from heat as much as possible.

1. ok
2. got it
3. ok
4. if i can i will.
5. done
6. ordering a gauge for that this am.

thanx a lot for the help. i had a feeling the plumbing in the back was a reason.
 
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