Could be. The EEM is diagnosed under a different menu option using the DRB-III. Good to see you still at it - hope your ECU problems are getting sorted out.
Doors won't open while parked and engine running
I went through the body diagnostics manual trying to find a solution for this, but no luck.
Both the driver and passenger doors won't open using the normal 'door open' latches if the engine is running, even if I'm not moving. Only the emergency door open latches work.
One other thing that doesn't work as the manual says it should, is that the door LED's go out as soon as the engine is started- the manual says they should only go off once it's moving at 10 mph or higher. Might be related?
Bad EEM?
Both the driver and passenger doors won't open using the normal 'door open' latches if the engine is running, even if I'm not moving. Only the emergency door open latches work.
One other thing that doesn't work as the manual says it should, is that the door LED's go out as soon as the engine is started- the manual says they should only go off once it's moving at 10 mph or higher. Might be related?
Bad EEM?
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ECU problems are fixed, still having intermittent low fuel pressure, but that's a different thread... 
So the electronic latch clicks/works with the car off but not with the car running and stationary?
There's a speed sensor input, right?
I have the same problem - and it just started happening. I started the car, got out to do something and closed the door. Came back and I couldn't open the doors. The windows were open so I reached in and the inner door latches would not work either. I was able to reach the keys and hit the "unlock" button on the key fob and still the outside handles would not work. I finally got the inside latch to work. Turned the car off and the outside door latches worked fine. My door LED's also went out.
I haven't checked the outer locks while it's running, but yes, that's correct. The inner electronic latches don't open the door while it's running and stationary.So the electronic latch clicks/works with the car off but not with the car running and stationary?
Yes there is- not direct, the speedometer signal is used. Normally the PCM takes the vehicle speed signal and uses that to create the signal for the speedometer (I'm surmising, not 100% sure about this). However the PCM does have a wire coming out from the speedometer pin, and since the speedo does work, the Infinity must be making that signal. The body diagnostics manual says to check that input to the EEM and it should read 5V. It doesn't, it seems to be typically near 0V but moves around. I just used a DMM to check, I'll put a scope on it today to get a better understanding. However, since my speedo works, I assume that it is working correctly- that may be a bad assumption. I did check that the speedo connection to the EEM has continuity to the PCM connector. I'll also look at the Infinity programming to see how the speedo output is setup.There's a speed sensor input, right?
The speedo output is a square wave with frequency 0.85 Hz when the car is parked. 0-4V amplitude. That doesn't exactly match what the diagnostics manual says, it said it should be 5V DC. I'll try changing the programming of the Infinity to put out 4V DC when parked, then switch to the linear frequency curve.
Thinking more, I don't know that those changes would help. Maybe I'll try just for the hell of it.
Check to see if there are different speedo signals/outputs on the infinity
My guess is after 10mph the signal is 0 going to the eem but i don't have a body diag manual (neither pdf nor printed). I can like at the service manual.
Quivk look at the service manual, the pcm has 1 speedo output that goes to speedo, radio and eem. So will not go to 0. Guessing the eem looks at the frequency. Once greater than xHz it cuts the switches off.
I connected the stock PCM speedo output to the EEM, still doesn't work. The stock PCM is putting out 5V like the manual said it should. I think the EEM has a screw loose.
I hope you already hard reset the eem before starting to swap stuff (i.e. removed power to it), else you cracking open the eem.
Uh, no I didn't. I still works as it did before I disconnected it though.
I think I found a cheap (free) way to fix this- I disconnected the ignition RUN-ST input to the EEM (C1-D15). This way it never thinks the car is running and now the doors open when parked.
I drove it around today and the fix works. The doors will open when it's parked, either from the inside electronic latch or the outside button. No more locking myself out!
Now back to the low fuel pressure issue...
Now back to the low fuel pressure issue...
C1-D15 is the FUSED IGN. (ST-RUN) fed by fuse 11. Check to see if you have voltage on that line in the key off position.
I don't, and that's good.
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