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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've ran some searches on this forum,and cant seem to find anything that helps.. I have a 99 RT10, and my door lock button is dead, I brought it to the dealership, and they said the actuator (selonoid) is shot, and its $700 for a new one, BUT that part is on a nationwide backorder, so I cant even order it.:cursin:

Anyone have any clue where I may find one, used or new? Or have suggestions to fix (or even temporarly fix) this thing without it until I can get one from dodge?
 

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isnt it the door lock actuator wiring that is notorious (or at least common) to have break in the door jam where it flexes back and forth as the door opens? Or am i confusing that with something else?
 

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I've ran some searches on this forum,and cant seem to find anything that helps.. I have a 99 RT10, and my door lock button is dead, I brought it to the dealership, and they said the actuator (selonoid) is shot, and its $700 for a new one, BUT that part is on a nationwide backorder, so I cant even order it.:cursin:

Anyone have any clue where I may find one, used or new? Or have suggestions to fix (or even temporarly fix) this thing without it until I can get one from dodge?
I'd suggest a second opinion on the diagnosis. I really can't remember replacing any Viper door latches, but I've replaced plenty of door switches and fixed a few wires.

Do you mean the lock button on the inside or the actual "open" button on the outside?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the comments guys... I'm in iowa, and I dont think they work on many vipers... So a second opinion is a good idea... I'm starting to wonder if it is the wires or something else.....

And yes the button on the outside of the car, and the metal door latch (that your supposed to use on the inside) both do nothing... So I have to use the emergency plastic door opener on the inside to get the door to open...
 

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sounds like the wiring issue i mentioned. i know its a decently common issue, and unless my memory is way off, im pretty sure i fixed this on a GTS a couple years ago... i wanna say that the broken wire was very easy to spot.

perhaps try and get the rubber protector off the wiring that goes thru the door jam and take off any plastic in the way on the inside (cant remember whats there) and look for broken/frayed wires. should be a very easy fix if this is the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK, I'll take that rubber boot off the wires today inbetween the door, and dig in there, and will let you guys know what I see, thanks for the tips
 

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Never fear - I'll carry the ball.
 

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FIXED! I spent time in the garage last night listening to the Spurs game splicing wires and buttoning-up everything.

Getting a look at the bad wires requires dislodging the ends of the boot from the toe box and door hinge area with a small screwdriver or plastic trim stick. Door panel removal is not necessary, but makes repairs a little easier.

To get to the green 16 pin connector to the door, you need to remove the knee blocker panel (trim and structural) pieces. The connector is practically impossible to separate without doing this. I took the seat out for easier access to everything. (The pedal adjuster knob pulls straight off, remove the trim panel and use a 3/4" or 19mm deep socket to remove the locknut.)



Next, I pulled back the flex boot and inspected all the wires that weren't already broken. I found 3 that were kinked hard enough to break inside the insulation so the total was 6 wires to repair. I cut them and laid everything back against both side of the harness. I used a primer feed tube from my reloading bench as a guide to snake the new wires through the boot. It's very difficult to do without something like this.



This photo shows all the new wires run through the flex boot, ready for stripping, butt connectors (non-coated 18 ga.) and heat shrink tubing. DON'T FORGET TO SLIP HEAT SHRINK OVER THE WIRES BEFORE SPLICING.



I used kitchen matches to activate the heat shrink material on each individual wire. A heat gun is hard to concentrate that small and you are likely to shrink everything else you aren't ready for. I looped the repaired areas back away from the stress point in the boot so there would be fresh conductors in the flex boot.



Everything works like a champ, the Spurs won, and I'm Vipering again! :D
 

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speaker wires

Lost sound from radio in passenger door. Drivers door cuts in and out. The plug at rear of radio seems ok.

Could my problem be frayed wires that go through door and give same problem as door lock actuator??

Could it be bad ground or can the radio just have a bad channel?
Anyone else have that problem and can advise where I look before stripping all wires back??:cursin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
wow, i just realized I started this thread forever ago, and never finished it... well for what its worth for future people who read this, the recommended fix above worked, there were frayed wires in the door that were loose, we removed the conduit, found the bad connection, sodered it and it was fixed!

Thx for your help guys...
 

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good thread, Ill be using this when i get back home
 

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Why has no one developed a kit to solve this problem once and for all? I need to do this too LOL.

If you heat shrink or tape all the wires, (end to end) wouldn't that help prevent any future breaking?
 

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The problem isn't always every wire though so a general "kit" might not be feasible. The location and nature of the issue isn't really convenient for a "wiring kit" either. It's still a chore to fix.

Ideally, the harness would be lengthened enough to take some of the stress off the wires when the door is opened all the way up and the wires are stretched.
 

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my last viper had the same problem with the actuator not working and as it turned out the little spring that pushed the button back was broken. put a new spring in that i had lying around and good to go.
 

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I have a simular issue with 09 but only with the driver outside door opener, would this issue i am having be from the actuator or is it from the wiring ? The door was fine yesterday morning when i dropped the car at the dealer for a tune up and when i received the window was down and i didnt think anything of it and open in from the inside and drove off, now it wont open from the outside!
 

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I have a 02 Viper RT/10 and the door lock actuators need to be replaced and I can not find parts anywhere. It has been at a dealership for 14 weeks. I do know the part numbers needed yet they are unavailable. Any thoughts? I appreciate anyone's help.
 
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