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Have a reputable radiator shop de-solder the tanks from the core and evaluate all the pieces. You may just get away with rodding the tubes, dip/clean the core, reassemble and pressure test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Calling around DC area. 3/4 shops said no way, 4th shop was skeptical they could get it done. Its a lost art around here 🤦🏾‍♂️. The hunt continues.
 

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Do you know anybody that owns big trucks/construction/excavating equipment? Check with their shop foreman/mechanic and see if you can parlay that relationship into a done deal.
 
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I have a couple of OEM replacement radiators. Also aftermarket if you want to go that route. The best one out there for cooling capability is the Howe triple pass. You can buy them at Roeracing.com or RSI
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
After 7 fails, finally found a radiator shop that recores. Pulled the rad this afternoon and it is definitely dead 😂. Good intel on the howe triple. Roe is my fallback if the recore is more expensive than a new unit.
Wood Mesh Gas Grille Audio equipment
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
well, the shop I found was awesome. Guy really knew his stuff, even went so far as to calculate heat rejection efficiency for a 3 row. Unfortunately price to recore was higher than a the aluminum 3 row for Roe, so, went with the Roe unit.
 

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Brass is a high-copper alloy. The cost of brass vs aluminum as a heat transfer medium is not insignificant. Brass is a stronger material and more tolerant of bumps and twists over time vs aluminum. You are right to make your own value decisions. Hope you get up and running soon!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Dean

In your opinion is there a significant difference in longevity between an aluminum rad and brass? I got 20-21 years out of my stock radiator before it showed signs of death.
 

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The aluminum tend to leak after some years. They crack and possible galvanic reactions. I would be adding a grounding lead for sure and/or a sacrificial anode(maybe) too it.

What are you going to do with the old rad?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well, honestly y’all got me second guessing the value proposition for aluminum now. Rebuild was around $1000, but it sounds like the lower price on aluminum also comes with less longevity and more necessary controls (ground, sacrificing anode cap). Has me thinking the extra $$ might payoff with less frequent repairs or replacement. 🧐
 

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Post #6.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Rob, Dean. Ok, reading you, getting out of my head, staying good with the aluminum radiator. Planning to hang onto my stock unit in case I need to rebuild and can find a reasonable price. Unless there is a market to sell old radiators in need to rebuild….
 

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FWIW...I had my perfectly fine and functioning OEM radiator recored to the three core after I removed it and saw Dodge used some three core end tanks with a two core core..who knows Dodge's rationale at the time. Regardless, my Tampa radiator shop said this is about the easiest thing to do from a shop perspective. All they did was measure the OEM core, got out one of those HUGE old parts catalogue with radiator core measurements and who makes it, and matched the size up, figured the cost, ordered the core, and done deal. Under $600 later I had a shiny new black three core OEM radiator pressure tested and guaranteed. That was four years ago or so, but there are shops capable of actual radiator work.
 
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