[dootime]

First off, 94 RT stock with K&N filters. I dont want to dump a TON of coin into the car. I want it to be dependable for weekend trips and shit like that. I do want to step up HP & torque. Motor or drivetrain first? To the big dogs remember back to your first viper and the stuff that worked. Also should I have the car dynoed to see what I'm starting with. Any input is appreciated

 

[Nole]

NITROUS and half shafts.

 

[City]

Mother of God /images/graemlins/freak
[size=+5]SEARCH

 

[NOITALL]

NOS is for cheaters :leaving:

 

[VIPERn94FIVE0]

lol Craig.....

...but in all seriousness the cheapest way to make BIG power is always going to be nitrous....of course it starts to add up if you spray ALL THE TIME and are constantly filling the bottle


Anthony

 

[_Mark_]

Rent a neon and drive it around all day. After that, your Viper feels like the fastest thing on the planet and it only costs you what, $100 or so?


(nitrous is cheapest, see btrviper.com)

 

[Slow Eddie]

If you want power all the time, I'm going to say heads and cam. It'll run you a few grand but thats the cheapest I can think of. There are not many little mods that make a difference on the viper motor. Even headers and exhaust don't help a stock motor much.

And mods are not cheap. Headers, high flow cats, and and exhaust can run you $3000-$3500. This aint Billy Bob's chevy.

Eddie

 

[V10 MOJO]

the worst damn question to hit the viper community /images/graemlins/toothy


My .02 worth; if you want dependable and daily driver with little expense then go nitrous (100-200 shot), halfshafts, and gears (3:55)

about $2500 bucks for the above and youll have one bad ass street machine for not a shitload of coin. specially a gen I, tons of torque to start with

always dyno first. many products (tuners and dealers) claim numbers they cannot back up

 

[Slow Eddie]

Gears! YES!!! I forgot gears. Great seat of the pants improvement for the money.

Eddie

 

[V10 MOJO]

heads/cam great upgrade but you will be opening check book a shitload more than nitrous. nothing like a true all motor car though, its truly the only way to go /images/graemlins/toothy

 

[socalrebell]

Hahaha, heads, cam & 1.7 roller rockers = $10K installed Eddie :nod:

.

 

[XS TORQ]

For "cheap" upgrades, and assuming you do not choose to go the nitros route, I would go with (in this order, having been through it)

K&N + smooth tubes. ~$100-200 = 5-15HP

Short shifter or shorter shift knob: $25-300. SVSI and B&M have short shifters, Rich Detert (sp?) sells a shorter shifter shaft, and MGW has beautiful shift knobs that also shorten the throw.

Muffler swap: You will be surprised how much HP you gain, and how much better it sounds when you get rid of the 28 # of back pressure in the stock mufflers. Go w/ glass packs (yes, glass packs) and you can likely stay under $100-200 depending on labor. = 10-25HP

Rear gear swap: you can buy a rear end from a Gen I OR 2 - both fit in the 94 - with gears of your choice already in it. Cost $750 - $1200 depending on how much time you spend looking for the rear end. You can then keep the stock rear end, or sell it to recoup much/most of your money. I went w/ 3.54, and am quite happy. = 0 HP, but feels like 35-50

Complete exhaust: Easy to spend $3k here. Probably better off spending some more and doing heads and cam instead. 25-50HP

Roller Rockers: $1500+ w/ installation. ~15HP

Heads and Cam: Heffner, DLM, Elite, BTR, Dan Cragin. At least $5k plus labor. 50-100+ HP

Blower: Roe, DLM, Cragin, Heffner, etc. $8k-$30k+. 150-500+ HP

That's my $.02

 

[_Mark_]

I think everyone is forgetting the Vipair. /images/graemlins/toothy

 

[txlen]

ahh...the old saying..."speed cost money....how fast ya wanna go????"...always comes to mind in a question like this...Len

 

[socalrebell]

I think everyone is forgetting the Vipair. /images/graemlins/toothy

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:


Mark did you see my post about the 40% off Hoosier R3S03 tires?


.

 

[viper spray]

Get some take off headers from a newer viper,flowmax,kill the cats,tubes&filters,B&M ripper shifter,Kumhos,new plugs and wires and the NOS 5180 kit for the Gen. I viper.

 

[viper spray]

My first Viper , a 95 made 521.5 HP and 610.7 torque. [image]http://www.viperalley.com/attach/data/1/374391-DSC00153.JPG[/image]

 

[_Mark_]

I think everyone is forgetting the Vipair. /images/graemlins/toothy

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:


Mark did you see my post about the 40% off Hoosier R3S03 tires?
.

I did indeed, but I don't trailer to the track, I drive, and the current RS303s aren't steel belted right? (i'm a little nervous driving 4 hours to and from the track on raw race rubber) Somebody told me Hoosier is coming out with a newer version that is steel belted - I imagine to answer the sport cup threat.

 

[socalrebell]

I think everyone is forgetting the Vipair. /images/graemlins/toothy

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:


Mark did you see my post about the 40% off Hoosier R3S03 tires?
.

I did indeed, but I don't trailer to the track, I drive, and the current RS303s aren't steel belted right? (i'm a little nervous driving 4 hours to and from the track on raw race rubber) Somebody told me Hoosier is coming out with a newer version that is steel belted - I imagine to answer the sport cup threat.

R3S03s are not steel belted but are street legal, the newer R3S04s that replace them are steel belted and also street legal. I do not advise driving 4 hrs. to the track on these either as it is a huge waste of rubber & $$$. $1,200 for a set and you'll be lucky to get 2 weekends out of them when you trailer the car, I can buy a brand new trailer for close to that :nod:

BTW, R3S03s are at least 2 seconds quicker the Cup tires at most tracks :smooch:

.

 

[_Mark_]

I think everyone is forgetting the Vipair. /images/graemlins/toothy

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:


Mark did you see my post about the 40% off Hoosier R3S03 tires?
.

I did indeed, but I don't trailer to the track, I drive, and the current RS303s aren't steel belted right? (i'm a little nervous driving 4 hours to and from the track on raw race rubber) Somebody told me Hoosier is coming out with a newer version that is steel belted - I imagine to answer the sport cup threat.

R3S03s are not steel belted but are street legal, the newer R3S04s that replace them are steel belted and also street legal. I do not advise driving 4 hrs. to the track on these either as it is a huge waste of rubber & $$$. $1,200 for a set and you'll be lucky to get 2 weekends out of them when you trailer the car, I can buy a brand new trailer for close to that :nod:

BTW, R3S03s are at least 2 seconds quicker the Cup tires at most tracks :smooch:

.

That's okay. I'm still 10 seconds slower than I should be on pilots. Maybe I should do more than one track event per year :idea:

I'm gonna burn my current pilots too the cords and then get a set of sport cups I think. I still have tread left but they're getting really hard.