The trick setup for racing is the B&M with the stock knob. B&M + MGW knob simply doesn't give enough leverage for snappy shifts.
I've tried every combination out there. Stock, stock shifter + MGW, stock shifter + momo, SVSi + stock knob, SVSi + momo, SVSi + MGW, B&M + momo, and B&M + MGW, and of them all, the best IMO is B&M with the stock knob.
If you just put an MGW knob on the stock shifter, it will give you 80% of what the B&M will give you. You will be removing the "dampened" feel of the stock knob, BUT, you still have the somewhat sloppy and dampened shifter. The B&M will "click" into the gears more than the stock + MGW will. The B&M shortens the throw, but it also gives a more positive feel, and is harder to move from the 1-2 gate to the 3-4 gate (stiffer springs), so you won't be wondering if you're going into 3rd or 5th, etc. It helps with the 2-3 shift also.
The B&M isn't too hard to install. They say you need to drill out the bottom of the ashtray compartment but you don't really need to. I f-ed up the measurement and the hole was 1/2" off where it was supposed to be - rather than drill another hole or enlarge it, I just used all the u-joints, extension bars I had in 1/4" size and I was able to tighten it just fine from the stock shifter cutout. In retrospect I wish I never drilled out that ashtray area in the first place.
Only thing to BE SURE is to put that little plastic thing on the ball of the B&M. I didn't notice that mine had come out and the grease stuck it to the bottom of the stock shifter. Put it all back together and it felt REALLY sloppy.. thought I f-ed up the install but I had to take it all apart to put that stupid plastic thing in.
I ended up breaking 2 of the B&M's - so I had to do the shifter install so many times. I bet I could do it in 1/2 hour now. I was the guy that discovered the problem with the shifters, according to B&M. When I called them they said they never heard of the problem before, and so I sent my shifter back, I worked with one of their engineers for a few weeks to identify the problem - which was a weak bond between the upright bar and the horizontal bar coming out of the shifter. They had used some sort of chemical weld shit - like JB Weld or something and it just wasn't strong enough. That area gets a LOT of rotational force when you slam the gears, and it would break.
Supposedly it's fixed 100% now.