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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New to this forum and hoping you guys can help!

1. How do you get the lower bolt out?
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2. Are there supposed to be two bolts sandwiching the ground of the alternator? Or just one bolt?
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Well, I took the timing chain cover out but that would be a bit extreme for you. I had to as I was changing the gasket.

But, without doing that you'll need to remove the cross brace or at least I would have had to.

Also, I don't believe that is a ground wire and yes their should be two. You only remove the outer one but be advised you need to hold that inner one with something or it will come loose too. I had to trim some of the boot grommet holder a bit to get a small wrench on it. Boot came back on just fine after trimming it a small bit.

While doing this job I would strongly suggest changing the tensioner, belt and probably the belt idle pulley too. My car is still pretty low milage (17K) but all 3 were ready to be changed. Pretty easy with the alternator already out too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, I took the timing chain cover out but that would be a bit extreme for you. I had to as I was changing the gasket.

But, without doing that you'll need to remove the cross brace or at least I would have had to.

Also, I don't believe that is a ground wire and yes their should be two. You only remove the outer one but be advised you need to hold that inner one with something or it will come loose too. I had to trim some of the boot grommet holder a bit to get a small wrench on it. Boot came back on just fine after trimming it a small bit.

While doing this job I would strongly suggest changing the tensioner, belt and probably the belt idle pulley too. My car is still pretty low milage (17K) but all 3 were ready to be changed. Pretty easy with the alternator already out too.
Thank you for your knowledge! I thought there were only supposed to be one nut, not two.

Do you think if I removed the throttle bodies I could lift the alternator up from the back?

I bought a belt from O'Reilly and it didn't look like the one on the car. It had cuts in the belt like a serrated knife. The one from O'Reilly was just straight strands with no serration. Should I order one from MOPAR?
 

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Thank you for your knowledge! I thought there were only supposed to be one nut, not two.

Do you think if I removed the throttle bodies I could lift the alternator up from the back?

I bought a belt from O'Reilly and it didn't look like the one on the car. It had cuts in the belt like a serrated knife. The one from O'Reilly was just straight strands with no serration. Should I order one from MOPAR?
I think that the reason for two nuts may be so that the cable lug has a conductive path through both the top and bottom contact surfaces with the two nuts, and then through their threads. This would lower the resistance over what you would get with only one nut, and therefore reduce any voltage drop and heat. That is important, given the number of amps being delivered by the alternator.

If the serpentine belt is a Gates Micro-V, that is a respected brand as far as I know and I would have no second thoughts about using it.
 

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Taking the TB off will not help on getting that bolt out. My intake wasn't even on when I did mine, as a FYI.

The belt should be smooth on one side and grooved on the other side (to match pulleys like your alternator pulley). If it's smooth on both sides then they gave you the wrong belt. You should have got a belt like this (correct belt for a 98 with AC as an example) : https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/.../automotive-car-1998-dodge-viper?q=belt&pos=0
 
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The reason for 2 nuts is simply one to hold the stud and isolator in place and one to clamp the cable.( are you certain that’s the ground?😀)
 

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The plug is the field control for the output and the large cable attached to the stud is the positive to the battery.
Th ground is made by the fasteners bolting it to the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
END RESULT: What should have been a simple replacement ended up taking hours more (typical). I removed the throttle body and tried lifting up. But found out later there was still too much of the lower bolt holding in the alternator to pull it up and out. (Though removing the throttle body was easy and I would recommend it to give yourself more room to access the alternator's wire harness.)

Ultimately the strut tower bar needed to be removed. First I lifted the car off the ground and put it on 4 jack stands to relieve pressure on the towers. There are a total of 5 bolts. I remove 2 of the black ones and one of the silver bolts that connect to the passenger side wheel well and the one under the car. So total of 4 bolts. I was able to lift the brace high enough to unscrew the lower bolt and pull the alternator out. The black bolts are 60ft lb torque. the black bolt on the passenger side is too narrow for a torque wrench. Just use a marker and mark it. The other nuts and bolts I was unable to measure. It's easier to remove the black bolts, loosen the silver bolt on the driver's side, remove the passenger side silver bolt, then the one under the car. When reinstalling it, do the one under the car first, then go backwards. If you screw in the ones on top, you'll have a hard time aligning the one under the car.

Hope that helps someone else!
 

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END RESULT: What should have been a simple replacement ended up taking hours more (typical). I removed the throttle body and tried lifting up. But found out later there was still too much of the lower bolt holding in the alternator to pull it up and out. (Though removing the throttle body was easy and I would recommend it to give yourself more room to access the alternator's wire harness.)

Taking the TB off will not help on getting that bolt out. My intake wasn't even on when I did mine, as a FYI.
Cliff notes - You don't like to listen to advice or thought I was a liar and wasted your time ;) Glad you got in replaced though.
 

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Taking the TB off will not help on getting that bolt out. My intake wasn't even on when I did mine, as a FYI.

The belt should be smooth on one side and grooved on the other side (to match pulleys like your alternator pulley). If it's smooth on both sides then they gave you the wrong belt. You should have got a belt like this (correct belt for a 98 with AC as an example) : https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/.../automotive-car-1998-dodge-viper?q=belt&pos=0
Alright, we will consider that belt when start working on uncle's new '98 Viper project, need to finish first the installation of the bumper, winch and tonneau covers on the truck before we can clear the garage.
 
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