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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got Mikes install wrapped up. Along with the bushings we ended up replacing ball joint boots, swapping out the ball joint grease for better stuff, and a total clean up and fresh coat of paint!!
I am finding out that unless you are pretty handy and do them yourself, you will be good money ahead to just send your control arms to me for the install. Shops charging $100 an hour and not familiar with a quick way to remove old bushings can add up quick! This will also make sure they are greased properly. I can swap these out in about 4 hours.

These are for the gen 2. Gen 3-4 are the same except for the fronts. Gen 3-4 uses basically the same upper rear, as the front, as far as bushings go. Still waiting on gen 1 lowers to get wrapped up though.





 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ball joint boots run about $17 each, replacement is literally 15 seconds, so just the price of parts. To get them clean before install, I have to scotch brite everything which leaves it perfect prep for a new coat of paint. If you just wanted an aluminum color using engine enamel, extra cost is $75. Custom powder coating or something would be more. Cost to just install is $225. So, $300, plus cost of bushings. Shipping not included.
At some point, I am going to try and have a set or 2 on hand so there won't be much downtime at all.

Btw- the control arms are not raw alum to start with. So a respray with alum color, will basically bring them back to original condition.
 

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Ball joint boots run about $17 each, replacement is literally 15 seconds, so just the price of parts. To get them clean before install, I have to scotch brite everything which leaves it perfect prep for a new coat of paint. If you just wanted an aluminum color using engine enamel, extra cost is $75. Custom powder coating or something would be more. Cost to just install is $225. So, $300, plus cost of bushings. Shipping not included.
At some point, I am going to try and have a set or 2 on hand so there won't be much downtime at all.
so $300 plus shipping both ways plus the bushings kit. what are we talking about in total? How difficult is it to remove the parts to send them to you? I am in Northern California so I imagine shipping wouldnt be as expensive correct?
 

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Nice. Interested in hearing the reviews on this product. It’s a shame you live so far away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
so $300 plus shipping both ways plus the bushings kit. what are we talking about in total? How difficult is it to remove the parts to send them to you? I am in Northern California so I imagine shipping wouldnt be as expensive correct?
Removal isn't all that bad. Separating the ball joints can be though. Use of a ball joint removal tool will help, but likely to shred the boot. Boot replacement may be a good idea anyways though.
I would figure shipping to be around $100 or less for both ways. The shock bushings are easier to do, and may be cheaper to do yourself rather than shipping them to me. I can send shock bushings to you and you can crack away at those, while I take care of all control arms.
Control arm and shock set with alignment lock kit would be $640. That was intro price, but if you have me do install, I will look at it as quantity discount. Normal price to go to $675 for above kit. $465 for control arm and alignment lock kit only and no shocks.
Someone could have a shop pull everything apart and send it to me, but, since they can't set car down till parts are recieved, you may run into a "lift rental" charge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Nice. Interested in hearing the reviews on this product. It’s a shame you live so far away.
Most purchasers so far I think do not get on the forums much. I have posted up looking for feedback, but don't think anyone has seen it yet. Only phone calls I have received have just been install questions, no problems or complaints at all.
So far I know 2 cars have been track cars, another car at 1000rwhp, and another at 1200rwhp, and then Mikes car (though not sure which one he is putting them on). Other purchasers I am not sure about. So they will be getting track time this season and hoping to get some verified results on that.


It seems there has been some confusion by people about the product. Confusion coming in about poly vs. delrin. Polyurethane CAN conform to the slight variations of the vipers outer bushing casing. Delrin, cannot, and does need to have alot tighter tolerances as far as these variations are concerned.
We are using a nearly 100% solid polyurethane mix with no additives ( like graphite or excessive impregnated lubricating oil) to bring integrity of the compound down. You end up with a mix that has the best abrasion resistance (=wear) available and installed with our grease, will not sqeek!
I spent months researching polyurethanes before approaching a manufacturer with over 50 years experience in polyurethane to make the bushings. That way I could understand and communicate with them exactly what i was looking for.


So yes, I am patiently waiting for feedback. Install can be time consumming, but that is understandable. All the molds are made and paid for, so patience I can afford. ;)
 

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Just did this whole setup on my X a couple of weeks ago. Couple things were a PITA due to having an X and some parts being a little different. Overall I think this will make a big difference on track though. Will be taking it out in a couple of weeks to Daytona to try it all out.
 

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I just did TKO control arm bushings on my Gen4 and noticed the shock bushings looked like melted and burned marshmallows.

The shock bushings pictured above look very similar, did they stay the same throughout the years?

I have looked all across the internet and this is the first time I've seen poly rear mounts.

Anyone know if there are other options or if these are still available?
 

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Ryan Hagan was selling a full kit. He is on most of the Viper FB forums.
 
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