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550 CID Motor

2153 Views 36 Replies 18 Participants Last post by  GARY J
I have been getting emails from people regarding a thread at the m.org asking what the deal is on 550 CID motors. This is specific to Gen 2 blocks.

I have never built a 550 CID motor as it requires a 4.060 in. piston. 60 over is too much in my opinion. The bottom of the liners is very thin at that point. One thing is for sure, if you have a problem at 60 over, you will not be able to go to 65 over or 70 over. So what does that mean? Well you cant just replace liners like you can on a Gen 1. So if you can go any bigger and you cant replace the liners, then that requires you to get another engine block.

The very first time I heard of someone doing a 550 CID Gen 2, I really wondered if they knew what they were getting into. But I just did think that 7 CID from another 10 over was worth the risk.

Anyway, these details may help some people to understand what is being discussed.

John
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What ci is APEX stroker? Because I'm too lazy to do the math, what is
the max amount from just stroke alone.
Yeah I think Apex is the only one (I know of) that has done a 550 stroker.
I saw the post on VCA - I guess I really never thought about where
the extra ci. came from, I assumed it was all stroke.
Before now, all the questions were about the increased stroke and flex problems
with that. I wonder why the bore is just now being questioned.
Did something happen?
The issue that v8huntr brought up has nothing to do with the displacement of the motor. Since his message was somewhat cryptic, there's speculation that the engine developed fatal problems due to it's being stroked. That is not the case.
Anyone gotta link?
enough already, let the fucking cat out of the bag /images/graemlins/soapbox.gif
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viper club . com under RT/10 and GTS forum.

I'm a great believer in keeping the maths good with a motor re adequate bore wall thickness, bore center clearance, rod stroke ratio etc. 550 cubes doesn't seem a good idea to me - far better to spend the money on boost - get more power and a lot more stable block.
I've seen that thread but it's the same, nothing concrete /images/graemlins/supergay.gif
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4.25 in. stroke x 4.060 bore = 550 CID
4.25 in. stroke x 4.030 bore = 543 CID
4.00 in. stroke x 4.030 bore = 510 CID

and in HP's case, you can safely take a Gen 1 to 60 over as it has thicker (and replaceable) liners:

4.00 in. stroke x 4.060 in. bore = 514 CID

I dont know any of the particulars of the motor being discussed, Im just passing along my opinion on going too big on bore size.


BTW - Torque - aint nothing wrong with a big motor, 510, 543, etc. as long as it is built correctly.

John
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hey John how big can you take a gen1 motor? Is 550 the max?
could you give me a rough guess as to cost? If done right what kind of HP and Torque # would I be looking at?
543; one bad ass all motor car thats for sure.
so if you check out the morgue it says who the builder of the 550 was. Cats out of the bag /images/graemlins/lurk.gif
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SmokinV10 said:
so if you check out the morgue it says who the builder of the 550 was. Cats out of the bag /images/graemlins/lurk.gif
I did a little search and let the cat out of the bag, too easy imo :bonk: Wow not only was the thread pulled (which I agree with) so was the review :slap: Anyhow it was about Apex Motorsports /images/graemlins/lurk.gif
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Gary A seems to have the scoop. Out with it Gary....If it was something of mine you would not hesitate!

Jedi

P.S. Its no secret that we have 550 ci stroker motors in production, but none are driving yet. I will say that If you do NOT replace the factory liners, the motor will not live long. The stroke is long enough to bring the piston down near the base of the liner. Building a 510 stroker is a no brainer.......542 and up is a completely different story.
you have to look at cylinder wall thickness as well... with such a high hp motor the cylinder walls can and do flex, this can cause blow by or blown rings... there is a point of negative returns from the thinner walls... IMO a stroker is a great motor, why bore the block needlessly... even .030, a few extra CI for what... if you have any probs down the road it's now a 10cl paper weight. keep stock bore, stroke it and if you want add a blower... it's not worth the risk.
whoever said anything about the cylinder walls being the problem???
ViperJEDI said:
Gary A seems to have the scoop. Out with it Gary....If it was something of mine you would not hesitate!

Jedi
There are a number of people on both boards that have the "scoop". My understanding was that it was pulled on the .org site because the owner of the vehicle in question did not post his story (and he can't because he's out of the country). My only problem with that is you don't have to be the owner of the vehicle to see exactly what happened and know what the cause was.

I do believe that the parties involved should be given the chance to do the right thing and straighten this out before it's aired in public.

Everybody in business has made mistakes, it's how they're handled that makes the difference between a good businessman and one that is destined for failure.

Tom, actually I have hesitated posting stuff about some of your products and even decided not to post anything. I think the only thing I've posted about any of your products (other than my opinion about Nitrous) was about the two halfshafts of yours that broke on my car.
Looks like the issue has started to surface. As a stroker engine producer I am very interested in longevity of these expensive and time consuming projects and hope that there is a reasonable answer to what has happened to this particular car. We have one engine being installed at present.

As for Gary, I believe that you were covered and warrantied under your guarantee for your halfshafts. Thats more than any of the other manufacturers would or have ever offered. I myself have used and broke brand x shafts in the past. Never one of my own. Needless to say over a hundred of my customers have not broken theirs. Any who have or possibly will in the future may also be covered under our guarantee. Regardless of what half shaft is purchased, the U-Joint is the weak link and all halfshaft manufacturers use the same spicer 1350 solid core joint. Poor driving and subsequent wheel hop are the usual culprit of broken u-joints which fail halfshafts.

Just to set things straight without changing the topic too much.

Have a great evening all.

Tom
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