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does this make a noticeable difference? Anyone?
180 thermostat
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Sweet. I'm considering one.
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I have the roe 180 degree and at speed it keeps it well below the lower of the three middle lines. Well worth it for the $ I think, just make sure you buy the three gaskets from a dealership *cough* tator *cough*.
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does it cool the cockpit...How does it actually work?
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Hey, you might want to get that cough checked out, it sounds like you got a tator stuck in your throat.Buckeye Viper said:
What's required to change this, any draining of fluid and refilling? I gather that for Gen2s, the intake manifold cover needs to be removed?
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Mak...you're getting sloppy here. The 180 degree therm works within the engine's cooling system ONLY. It is designed to open, thereby allowing full water flow through the engine's cooling system when the water in that system reaches 180 degrees, as opposed to opening at a higher temperature. I sincerely doubt there would be any noticeable change in the car interior's temperature as a direct result of a change in the engine thermostat. At idle (or low rpm) even the low temp thermostat will not affect the engine's operating temp as the volume of water flowing through the cooling system system (even with the thermostat wide open) is insufficient to cool the engine below say around 210-220 degrees.Makaha said:
If the car is overheating with a functioning stock t-stat, a lower temp t-stat will not help that problem at all.
If the car is going to run at 220 degrees normal operating temperature with the stock t-stat wide open, it will run 220 degrees with a 180, 160, 140, or lower t-stat because they will all be wide open letting the water circulate.
What you will notice with putting in a lower t-stat is a bit longer time to reach normal operating temps and larger temp SWINGS on the gauge.
Highway driving on a cool morning will have the temp needle left of center but when you hit stop and go traffic it will get just as hot as when you had the stock t-stat in. Highway driving in cold weather may yield a colder running car than it was designed for. Remember, this device regulates how cold the engine will run, it does not regulate how hot it runs. That is done by fans and heat exchanger (radiator).
Also, with the exception of the Mopar Performance Parts 180 t-stat , the aftermarket t-stats I have seen from Stanton and Cat. do not look nearly as well made as the oem unit and some have had a sticking closed problem.
*** Also, I saw a catapillar brand that was 70*C that is actually a 160*F the vendor was selling as a 180*F. That might run a bit too cool.
But if you do go with one: Installation tips are: using a bit of Water pump grease aka(lithium grease, and drilling 2 small opposing holes in the shell to keep air an pocket from building up.
To change the t-stat in the Gen 2 isn't all that bad. You do NOT have to completely unbolt everything from the IM and actually remove it from the car. Remove only what is necessary that will allow you to lift the im up about 8" or so and put some soda cans or something else under it to hold it up while you change the t-stat and use new im gaskets.
If the car is going to run at 220 degrees normal operating temperature with the stock t-stat wide open, it will run 220 degrees with a 180, 160, 140, or lower t-stat because they will all be wide open letting the water circulate.
What you will notice with putting in a lower t-stat is a bit longer time to reach normal operating temps and larger temp SWINGS on the gauge.
Highway driving on a cool morning will have the temp needle left of center but when you hit stop and go traffic it will get just as hot as when you had the stock t-stat in. Highway driving in cold weather may yield a colder running car than it was designed for. Remember, this device regulates how cold the engine will run, it does not regulate how hot it runs. That is done by fans and heat exchanger (radiator).
Also, with the exception of the Mopar Performance Parts 180 t-stat , the aftermarket t-stats I have seen from Stanton and Cat. do not look nearly as well made as the oem unit and some have had a sticking closed problem.
*** Also, I saw a catapillar brand that was 70*C that is actually a 160*F the vendor was selling as a 180*F. That might run a bit too cool.
But if you do go with one: Installation tips are: using a bit of Water pump grease aka(lithium grease, and drilling 2 small opposing holes in the shell to keep air an pocket from building up.
To change the t-stat in the Gen 2 isn't all that bad. You do NOT have to completely unbolt everything from the IM and actually remove it from the car. Remove only what is necessary that will allow you to lift the im up about 8" or so and put some soda cans or something else under it to hold it up while you change the t-stat and use new im gaskets.
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citysnake,
I didn't know if allowing an engine to run a bit cooler could affect cockpit...I don't understand the "you're getting sloppy" statement, but whatever. I guess I don't understand everything, that's why I ask.
I didn't know if allowing an engine to run a bit cooler could affect cockpit...I don't understand the "you're getting sloppy" statement, but whatever. I guess I don't understand everything, that's why I ask.
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Makaha, my take could be wrong, but I understand the thermostat to not change your normal vehicle operating temperature.. The only difference a lower degree thermostat will make is that it will take longer for the engine to reach its operating temperature as the thermostat opens earlier. I recently had to change the crossover gaskets on my genI and talked to both Tator and my vipertech about going to the 180 tstat. Tator said the car might have a bit more pep at the lower operating temperatures (before the car heats up to normal operating temps) and my viper tech suggested it wasn't worth it so i just stuck with the stock tstat.
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Sorry Mak! I just thought the answer to your question was a bit obvious. Guess my pompous side won out for a moment. Keep asking! :thumb:Makaha said:
For a forced induction engine, the 180 degree t-stat is a good mod. For a n/a engine, it's really a pick 'em. Cold climate prob not. Warm climate, prob good.
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Citysnake,
You don't understand, I'm an idiot when it comes to understanding these things, BUT I'm learning. Would that Forced Fed include Nitrous? Thanks for the info.
Thanks guys. I need the education. That's how bad it is...I didn't even know I was sloppy. Sad.
You don't understand, I'm an idiot when it comes to understanding these things, BUT I'm learning. Would that Forced Fed include Nitrous? Thanks for the info.
Thanks guys. I need the education. That's how bad it is...I didn't even know I was sloppy. Sad.
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A normally aspirated (induction) engine "breathes" air directly from outside the car. Forced induction comes from a supercharger or turbo charger which compresses intake air (each differently) and forces it into the cylinders which allows more fuel to be added to the increased amount of air. More air + more fuel = larger "explosion" in the cylinder = greater force and HP.
Nitrous, to the best of my knowledge, would not be considered "forced" induction. It is simply another way to increase the appropriate amount of fuel by increasing the density and ultimately the volatility of the air (I think since I've never utilized this additive).
Hope that serves to help rather than confuse.
Nitrous, to the best of my knowledge, would not be considered "forced" induction. It is simply another way to increase the appropriate amount of fuel by increasing the density and ultimately the volatility of the air (I think since I've never utilized this additive).
Hope that serves to help rather than confuse.
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citysnake, thanks.
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I bought a 180 degree thermostat almost 2 years ago, and I still haven't installed it yet. It's a pain that you have to disconnect the injectors and pull the whole intake (needing to replace all of the gaskets).
It should make a small improvement, and I'll definitely install the tstat if I have the intake off for any other reason (porting?), but until then I'll wait.
It should make a small improvement, and I'll definitely install the tstat if I have the intake off for any other reason (porting?), but until then I'll wait.
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LOL Gary J, I didn't notice that myself-HA! At least he can't get FLAMED for not searching first
I run a 172 from Roe Racing and I used their gaskets and they worked fine. My highway temps even with a blower cruising in 6th is just barely 172 or slighly above. In traffic of course it goes higher, but it DOES allow me to beat on it more before coming to temp. I also installed the Roe fan kit to turn the fans on if the temp is above 220 after I turn the car off. I'm using Water Wetter too, but I know I need a new rad if I want to get cooler, but frankly even with my SC in New Jersey, I am cool enough-well at least my car is
I run a 172 from Roe Racing and I used their gaskets and they worked fine. My highway temps even with a blower cruising in 6th is just barely 172 or slighly above. In traffic of course it goes higher, but it DOES allow me to beat on it more before coming to temp. I also installed the Roe fan kit to turn the fans on if the temp is above 220 after I turn the car off. I'm using Water Wetter too, but I know I need a new rad if I want to get cooler, but frankly even with my SC in New Jersey, I am cool enough-well at least my car is
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