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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys, I need some help. I don't have manual, and I'm not paying someone to adjust my bone stock 01 acr's suspension. It's more fun to do it yourself anyway. I have WAY too much finder gap. So here is my qestion,

How do I adjust the ride hight/shocks settings and what are good settings for street use. My viper will not see any track use untill I get used to it. (last car was a neon.) I don't want to wreck the darn thing before I get to show it off.


Thanks,

Tanked.
 

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If you want to adjust ride height and don't want to spend all day doing the alignment yourself, just have a shop do it. Costs me $250 for a race shop to do it and they do them all day long.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I like to do my own work. I hate other people I don't know working on my cars. Even when I was racing a neon...I wouldn't let people touch it. I don't mind giving rides...I enjoy that. But as far as working on my car...I can do it. I just want to be careful.


Who here does their own work?
 

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I think what Mark is saying is if you adjust the ride height and lower the car, it will throw your alignment off and you will have to have the car realigned.
C~
 

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Yes, that is what I was saying. If you do your own alignment and corner balancing too, then go for it.

I work on my own car too, when it makes sense to. To do that job myself would probably take me a full weekend and I don't even have the scales nor the shock tools. I have a great race shop though here that specializes in just suspension setup though, and they can do it in half a day for $250.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the replays. I found a manual online just for the "dynamic" suspension and had it fedex to me next day. Good info in it. It tells you "how to". I'll mess with it next weekend, then post more about it. I'll agree it will need to be re-align. I can't do that...but there is a shop not too far away that says they'll do it.

I'm thinking of taking it down only 1/2" to start with. Any lower then that and I may not be able to drive it on the streets here in Seattle...they are very rough. I NEVER want this car to be trailered to the track. I bought it so I can drive it there and then drive it home (assuming I don't break it.):thumb:


What are some shock and rebound settings you recogmend. Because this is an ACR I can adjust them when I get to the track then set it back to stock. It's just ride hight that I don't want to mess arould too much. What about toe in and toe out? Keep them at 0? I want to know what are some good street/track setting...something that isn't too twichy on the street but ok on the track.



Thanks for the help thus far guys...please keep it comming. I'm getting much more help here then with the VCA.
 

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Tanked,
if you are going to change the ride height yourself see if you can rent a set of load cells to check on corner weights. 3 points determine a plane and you could end up with a suspension "teetering" on the front-left/rear-right or front-right/rear-left wheel pairs by a hundred pounds. As stiff as the '01 ACR suspension is, it wouldn't take being too far off to have this unbalance. Park on a flat and level surface when checking corner weights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Good point. I didn't think of setting up for better balance L/R or F/R. I wasn't even thinking of the "teetering" I'll have to see if I can find some scales. I'll check with the local race shops for them.


When I do the corner weight adjustments, should I check the corner weight with me in the car? (I'll need a 2nd person to help). Would this provide the best handling of the car?


Clearly...I need lots of set time, before I'm ready to track this beast.
 

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i have a 01 acr. i left the ride height at stock height because i drive my acr on the street. the spring rate in the front is 550 lbs. and the spring rate in the rear is 1100 lbs. as a result i have my compression dampning backed all the way out to the softest setting for street use which is the way it came from the factory when i bought it new. i left the rear rebound dampning adjustment where they were from the factory and adjusted the front rebound dampning 4 cliks because it was not properly adjusted. when i start road racing i will increase compression dampning and set rebound accordingly. i will be using road racing slicks for the road course. if i lower the car for the track i will lower the car like 1 inch and put more negative camber into the front. i will be using a 1 inch wider wheel and slick in the front for the road course than the stock wheel and tire size.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I was chaning my oil today (I don't think who had the car last took very good care of it 6500mi and still the mopar filter...and the oil was burned bad.) After changing the oil (moble 1 10-30 and a new filter fram XG16) Oil pressure was up to 50-60psi (vs 40-50psi). Also the frame on these cars is STIFF!!! Holy Cow! When I was taking the car down off the jack stands, I removed the one on the passanger side, the entire car was on the rear driver's side wheel and the jackstand on the front was behind the was perfectly balanced. I have NEVER seen a frame this stiff. I like the car more and more everyday. It did cost me $60 for an oil change though...eeekkk.

Oh yea...anyway.


After changing the oil today...I think I'll leave the ride hight alone. I could barly get a jack under the darn thing. But that finder gab bugs the poop out of me. Yes, I think I'll leave the shock and rebound settings the same. I do drive it on the streets here and it's stiff enough. Seattle roads suck...big time. One day, after much street driving, I'll take this car to the track. It's the most powerful and best handling car I've ever had. I need lots of time to get used to it so I don't wreck it the 1st time out.

Any driving tips guys? Other then

1.) Don't drive in the rain (done that...not doing it again.)

2.) Don't floor it in 1st gear going arould a corner. (yea...did that too...not doing that again either.)
 

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Tanked said:
Good point. I didn't think of setting up for better balance L/R or F/R. I wasn't even thinking of the "teetering" I'll have to see if I can find some scales. I'll check with the local race shops for them.


When I do the corner weight adjustments, should I check the corner weight with me in the car? (I'll need a 2nd person to help). Would this provide the best handling of the car?


Clearly...I need lots of set time, before I'm ready to track this beast.
Getting a Viper corner-weighted properly without the driver is not a difficult undertaking. You will probably not be able to get your car corner-weighted to an unwedged condition with driver mass aboard. The battery placement and the driver conspire to unload the right front tire, which is why it is always the first one to lock up under braking. In some rare instances where I can take a passenger on-track, I have found it easier to keep the car balanced and smooth than when running solo. Part of that is because somebody's watching in case I screw up... /images/graemlins/laughing.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That's funny....when I would run STS with my neon....I seemed to to just a tad better...with a rider. I never did corner weight the car. I just showed up at the track removed some useless junk out of the car and had fun. :smile:
 

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If you track, you may want to call and talk to JonB about spring rates. I have a freind with a saphire acr and he said the spring rates are almost dangerous - and the first thing he did was swap them out with something better. I'm no expert because I have a '99, but I know JonB has a yellow acr and he's familiar with the issue.

Just another datapoint.
 

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I have a 01 ACR.Just bought a set of springs for the rear from JonB at Parts Rack and they made all the difference in the world.Went from 1100 to 800 and they are the same brand as org.I did the install myself and took about 2 1/2 hrs total.Give JohB a call he will set you up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'm thinking that would help with the street drive too then? That's a 300 less then stock.
 
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