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(PICS) M&M Header Install Gen 3 (PICS)

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(PICS) M&M Header Install Gen 3 (PICS)
Old May 5th, 2012, 07:45 PM   #1
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(PICS) M&M Header Install Gen 3 (PICS)

Well I want to first off say thanks for the Gen III header install doc here on the VCA. I picked up this set from the guys at M&M here on the board and got them installed this last week. All in all I'm very happy with the construction, price, performance, and fit and finish of the headers. The customer service I experienced was exceptional and install was a breeze as far as header installs go.

I went ahead and took a few pics during the install, nothing to detailed as we already had an install document on the site but thought I would comment on the things that worked well and or things I did differently.

First a few things I did before getting started. The M&M turnouts are 3 inch and my Corsa has the 2 1/2 inch inlets so I needed to get a reducer made at a local exhaust shop. Super cheap and quick. I went ahead and threw the catback in my Jeep along with both turnouts to make sure the fit was as tight as possible. I would later weld the reducer to the turnouts once cut to length but for adjustment purposes need these to be movable.



Next per our install doc here I went ahead and ordered new Mopar exhaust manifold gaskets just incase my stockers separated upon removal (which they did.) These are cheap anyways roughly 36$.



Next I went ahead and called up Summit and ordered new ARP hardware (not necessary, but recommended) along with some copper gaskets for the collectors. These are also not mandatory but they don't cost much and do the job well.





Once everything came in, I went to work. I ended up doing the install alone which is doable, but I took my time over the coarse of a week to get everything done right. First things first, got the side sills removed and the catback off.



Next I removed the windshield cowling, airbox, and the cabin airfilter plastic housing at the base of the passenger side windshield cowl.



Here I kind of skip ahead in the pictures so i'll give a quick breakdown. Removed the wires, valve covers, loosened the coolant overflow and secured it out of the way. Removed and marked the throttle cable position, removed the break booster line and folded out of the way. Basically try and create as much clearance as you need to remove the old exhaust manifolds and install the new headers. I secured the fusebox heat-shield back with a long piece of blue painters tape secured to the fender (I know it looks hillbilly, but it works great.) From here, protect your rocker arms and cylinder heads from damage as you remove the stock manifolds and install the new headers. I didn't take any pics but I used tape and rags which worked fine. Here it is all torn down.





From here I inserted a couple of set screws into the head to hold the new gasket in place and to hang the new headers on (more detail on that in the original install doc.) Use antisieze, and the proper torque specs and procedure when installing the new headers. At this point everything was left loose for adjustment purposes.



Drivers side went in easier than the passenger side. On both sides I needed to remove the motor mount bolts and slightly raise the motor to get the headers past the frame rails. Really easy to do. Here's the passenger side with the valve covers back on.



At this point I went ahead and torqued everything to the head and started working down stream, first with the collectors and the rear O2's. I grabbed a couple O2 block offs from the exhaust shop I used and used some loctite to secure them in the collector as they can come loose.



Next I rigged up the rear O2's via a trick from Andres (345's Spinnin, Thanks Buddy for your help). I secured the rear O2's up and out of the way and used spark plug anti-fowlers to insulate them to not only protect them, but also to allow them to properly heat making the system "ready" so it wouldn't throw any codes, and still pass emissions. The rear O2's read plenty of oxygen in the outside air so the system thinks everything is great. So far so good, it works great! You have to drill out a significant portion out of the end to get them to accept the O2 but it works.

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Old May 5th, 2012, 07:46 PM   #2
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After bolting up the collectors I moved on to the turnout pipes. These are supplied basically to cut to length for the customer. As with all things measure twice and cut once, or in my case do this a million times because your afraid to remove to much lol. I would simply mark the turnout where I wanted the cut, mark it, then mask it and cut it with a sawzall. The sawzall worked well even with the jet hot coating being so hard. After each cut I would de-burr it with the grinder or dremel and test fit.







After that get everything tightened up with the supplied hardware and your done! I took the time to really insulate and or wrap anything that I thought might possibly get to hot with reflective heat tape. I also ordered a set of Koolsox (same as the ACRX wire boot covers minus the word "Viper") through Koolmat.com.

Here's the finished install!





I put a few heat cycles on everything and went over all of the fasteners again. I also decided to move the passenger side O2 wire back and away from the rear passenger side primary just to be safe, there's plenty of room to tap the frame rail and install a nice hoseclamp out of the way.

Andy Wheeler
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Old May 5th, 2012, 08:01 PM   #3
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Looks AWESOME Andy. Love it.
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Old May 5th, 2012, 08:04 PM   #4
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Looks AWESOME Andy. Love it.
Thanks Brother I appreciate it.
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Old May 5th, 2012, 08:33 PM   #5
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Looks great Andy. Glad you like them. You can put the rear o2 in the bung you blocked off. It will not set off the CEL as the defouler is built in.
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Old May 5th, 2012, 08:44 PM   #6
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Looks great Andy. Glad you like them. You can put the rear o2 in the bung you blocked off. It will not set off the CEL as the defouler is built in.
Well shit. I guess I should have called you for something lol. Thanks you guys were great to work with!
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Old May 6th, 2012, 12:12 AM   #7
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Are you selling the stock manifolds, sir?
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Old May 6th, 2012, 12:22 AM   #8
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Noticed the aftermarket connecting pipes have no flex section in them. Is that how all aftermarket exhaust is supplied?

I'll buy the stock cats if you want to part with them.
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Old May 6th, 2012, 07:20 AM   #9
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Very nice job, Andy. I appreciate the pictorial as well. Everything looks great!
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Old May 6th, 2012, 08:18 AM   #10
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Are you selling the stock manifolds, sir?
Sure if you're interested I have everything from the hardware to the heat shields if your interested. Send a pm and we'll see if we can decide on a price.

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Noticed the aftermarket connecting pipes have no flex section in them. Is that how all aftermarket exhaust is supplied?

I'll buy the stock cats if you want to part with them.

Some do, some don't. I'm going to add the Woodhouse motor and trans mounts to decrease the flex wich will help with the longevity of the system.

Yep I can certainly sell the cats, and the clamps. All four worked great and perfomed fine on the car when removed. Good set of stockers,if someone wants the set.

Shoot me a pm guys!

Andy
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Old May 6th, 2012, 08:23 AM   #11
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Very nice job, Andy. I appreciate the pictorial as well. Everything looks great!
Thanks man I used to do more of these a few years ago and on some past builds so it was fun to do.

I know it's not Rocket Surgery compared to what some guys can do but it's fun.
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Old May 6th, 2012, 11:31 AM   #12
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Looks great man,and thank's for sharing..
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Old May 6th, 2012, 11:52 AM   #13
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Great install Andy, when you get a moment, post up a sound clip so we can hear the V10 rumble through your new exhaust "speakers".
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Old May 6th, 2012, 07:48 PM   #14
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Looks great man,and thank's for sharing..
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Great install Andy, when you get a moment, post up a sound clip so we can hear the V10 rumble through your new exhaust "speakers".
Thanks Guys,

I'll try and get a quick video of it ripping through the gears in the next week or so.

Andy
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Old May 13th, 2012, 07:20 PM   #15
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Nice work...I'm still loving the CF wheels!
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Old May 14th, 2012, 08:23 AM   #16
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Great Job !! Nice and clean install.

How does it sound now in comparison to stock ?
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Old May 14th, 2012, 04:42 PM   #17
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Nice work...I'm still loving the CF wheels!
I'm still pretty partial to them myself
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Great Job !! Nice and clean install.

How does it sound now in comparison to stock ?
Thanks Ripper, it's loud as shit but no noticeable drone which really helps. I should have some time soon to get a sound clip done.

Andy
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Old May 16th, 2012, 03:30 PM   #18
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I'm still pretty partial to them myself


Thanks Ripper, it's loud as shit but no noticeable drone which really helps. I should have some time soon to get a sound clip done.

Andy
Very Cool ! Look forward to seeing/hearing it.


Jerry~
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Old May 29th, 2012, 02:06 PM   #19
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Im also trying to install my headers but I can not get them in on the passenger side.
How much did you raise the engine?
Any other tip?
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Old May 29th, 2012, 05:07 PM   #20
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Im also trying to install my headers but I can not get them in on the passenger side.
How much did you raise the engine?
Any other tip?
That's the toughest part of the entire install. I removed the nuts on the motor mounts and raised it as much as it could until it finally slipped in. Try and position a floor jack with a 2x6 on the passenger side of the oil pan and gently raise it slightly tilting it giving you more room to get it in. Once you get that in it's smooth sailing
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