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Noob with plenty of questions...don't ya hate me already!! Lol

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Old September 2nd, 2020, 07:52 AM   #21
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...the fucking service manual is on its way!
You're going to love it. It's written well and easy to understand, any idiot can fix their Viper with it and when you run into a wall: the guys here fill in the blanks.

I'll pick up the service manual just to read it every now and then.

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Old September 4th, 2020, 10:02 AM   #22
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Update: So.....i was up til around midnight:30 last night. My PS hoses came in and I wanted to get them done and out of the way. The "upgraded" ones with the adapter fittings to AN and solid braided line. Let me just ask one question so everybody can get where im coming from.....
Was it evil of me to be sitting there having pleasurable thoughts of meeting one of the engineers of our fine cars(or the one who designed the "upgraded hoses")....and horse whipping the fuck out of him with every tool, hose, and fitting i had in my hands??!!!! Enough said...???? Thought that would make my point clearer! Lol

And Ramtuff......if that "fucking service manual" doesn't hurry up and get here, you damn well better!! (Ya know I'm throwing you a wink and messing with ya when saying that right?!😉 I dont expect you to actually come to my house. Phone calls work just fine...COVID has taught us that!)
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Old September 4th, 2020, 10:11 PM   #23
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Old September 5th, 2020, 06:29 AM   #24
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Lol! Yeah.....why, did I sound a little frustrated in my last post?!

Btw, I forgot to mention I ordered the MC from a local dealership. $194. They said there were only 2 left in the US. Maybe thats why it was so hard for me to find one, or thats just what they say to get you to hurry and buy one?! Either way, i will wait to start the fluid flush until it comes in and I can do it all at one time. If those two items don't fix the problem, I will pull the transmission and see what the SC and clutch/PP looks like. Just don't have it in me this weekend to have any more frustrations. In the meantime, if anyone thinks they need a MC...better hurry and jump on the last one left!
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Old September 12th, 2020, 02:59 AM   #25
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Update: the MC came in today. I just got the inner splash guard removed and about to call it a night. I will try to install, flush and bleed the system tomorrow, but this one was shipped dry and I understand it can be a pain. I may have to order the bleeder systems I hear yall talking about.

Two questions not covered in the manuals:
1. When removing the line from the slave, do you actually need the special tool or can something else more common in a toolbox be used to slide the plastic release collar?

2. Is this system a self-bleed type where if any air bubbles are left they will purge to the reservoir? Or is it completely sealed and I need the bleeder system to get all the air out?

Thanks,
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Old September 12th, 2020, 06:44 AM   #26
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I honestly can’t remember if the fitting has the little tabs to push and release or if I used my tool.
It’s not self bleeding.
Get a vacuum bleeder, (mityvac etc) you will thank yourself.
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Old September 12th, 2020, 06:33 PM   #27
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Beer time!!! I don't think this is supposed to be in my hands!!! Fucking Mickey Mouse service manual!!!! And I am 6'1 270 lbs but now I have to shrink to fit under there far enough to reattach this?! Where's that beer....
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Old September 12th, 2020, 09:21 PM   #28
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Yea... that master is a bitch. Not a lot of room. Thatís one reason why it was suggested to try and bleed first. If the slave is leaky you may not even see any fluid dripping.
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Old September 13th, 2020, 01:45 AM   #29
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I managed to get it all back together. I added some length of wire to the connector so it will be easier if I ever had to fold that small again. And the ref to the service manuals was that they didn't give a good depiction if separating that particular pin, combined with the retaining clip being left unlocked from install. When I shifted it to the other position it actually locked and was a pita to get undone. For anyone who never done this themselves, there isn't a whole lot of skack on the supply wires to the clutch interlock switch that has to be disconnected when changing the MC. But also, as I found today, trying to pull any slack or being overly aggressive will leave both ends of the plugs in your hands if not careful.

I stopped tonight once I spliced the pigtail back under the clutch pedal. I will remove and try to install the new one tomorrow.

And for those who saw my post today asking for fluid clarification, the dealer supplied OEM MC did in fact come pre-filled with fluid. But on that I have a question....what do I do with the old fluid in the SC? Should I bleed that out until new fluid appears? I ask because I bought the mityvac as I see everyone suggest, but not sure if I am going to need it tomorrow to purge the system of any traces of old fluid. Is it okay to mix dot 4 and dot 5.1? I bought 5.1 today before I realized the system was already filled. I'm assuming they shipped dot 4 since that's what OEM recommended. Would no more than what is in the SC be critical to purge?

Now I only have left the MC, proper bleed if required, hopefully problem solved and running again, install skip shift MIL, consider installing 2nd PS hose to rad fan, retorque the rear end snubber arm to stop clunking I thought was coming from rear end, fluid top off, wash/wax, and a good once over. But I'm not there yet. Half a day wasted today on a pin plug alone. But the beer is on ice right beside the car right now.

Thanks,
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Old September 13th, 2020, 09:17 PM   #30
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Flush all out with you new fluid.
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Old September 14th, 2020, 04:55 PM   #31
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Well, it wasn't the fluid or the mc. Just installed today and bled the rest of the old fluid out of the sc. I had a friend work the clutch and we had a helluva time getting it to bleed. I noticed the line plugged into the side for the sc had a lot of slack(wiggle) but I am certain it went in properly. I pushed until I heard it click and no matter how much I push it doesn't go any further. Also, I noticed my flywheel is flexing when the clutch is pushed. The pp is moving some, but not before the flywheel moves first. There was also some clunky slack in the flywheel, so I'm guessing the bolts may have backed out, at least on one side. It still doesn't release.

Next step is what I feared. Without my shop anymore because of my divorce I have to pull the transmission laying on my back. Oh well, if it was easy....right? Stay tuned for updates...

BTW, I may be off the board for a bit. I'm staying with my mom and she just tested positive for Corona. She and 3 other ladies from her church. And I'm on my way to get tested now with the same symptoms...ugh, it never stops!!
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Old September 17th, 2020, 05:28 PM   #32
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Old September 18th, 2020, 01:59 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cdover73 View Post
Update: So.....i was up til around midnight:30 last night. My PS hoses came in and I wanted to get them done and out of the way. The "upgraded" ones with the adapter fittings to AN and solid braided line. Let me just ask one question so everybody can get where im coming from.....
Was it evil of me to be sitting there having pleasurable thoughts of meeting one of the engineers of our fine cars(or the one who designed the "upgraded hoses")....and horse whipping the fuck out of him with every tool, hose, and fitting i had in my hands??!!!! Enough said...???? Thought that would make my point clearer! Lol

And Ramtuff......if that "fucking service manual" doesn't hurry up and get here, you damn well better!! (Ya know I'm throwing you a wink and messing with ya when saying that right?!😉 I dont expect you to actually come to my house. Phone calls work just fine...COVID has taught us that!)
Your going to fit in fine here
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Old September 23rd, 2020, 02:01 PM   #34
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Which is a better SC to go with? OEM/Luk/Roe/other?? I have the trans out and still not sure what the problem is. A lot of rust on the PP internals, slack in the hydraulic line hook up from the SC, residue around the TOB, and dry bearings in the TOB. I will be replacing the assembly regardless, so which one should I go with?
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Old September 23rd, 2020, 05:39 PM   #35
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I have the trans out and still not sure what the problem is.
I don't see that anyone mentioning pilot bearing. Is it possible something was screwed up which "seized" the pilot bearing and its fit to the transmission input shaft such that the input shaft was being driven by the crank shaft no matter whether the pressure plate was disengaged or not? That's the only thing left that I can think of if nothing else was actually bad or stuck.
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Old September 28th, 2020, 02:10 PM   #36
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Well...found my problem. I didn't have an alignment tool so I almost wasn't going to pull the pp and clutch. But I couldn't be that far in and not pull it, so I did. And this is what I found. The disc is welded to the pressure plate. And looks pretty well worn. The flywheel has hot spots galore. And the pilot bearing has thrown needles. All this in 12000 miles/5 years. Should this have happened in that short amount of distance?* And before you say it, this car only sees car shows, not drag strips.* I'm not sure if I want to go back with another Spec.
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Old September 28th, 2020, 04:18 PM   #37
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Re-read post #13.

https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...-07083756.html
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Old October 1st, 2020, 10:23 PM   #38
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Well, SPEC worked very fairly with me so I went with another one. We went with a Stage 1 this time with organic disc material instead of kevlar. The tech I spoke to said he thinks somebody beat the hell out of it, from the hotspots that are fresh and crisp on the flywheel instead of faded around the edges of the spots. I assume that means if the hotspot is fresh the edges are sharp and if they were old the edges would have appeared to be sanded from the clutch disc over time. I will be installing it tomorrow. He cut a very good discount for me since the setup only lasted 12000 miles. Fair enough for me. Now I have a completely new setup from the MC to the flywheel. Cant wait to get it going again.

Thanks to everyone for the insight, brutal honesty, humor, and most of all patience with me. I appreciate all your input. Thanks!
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Old October 9th, 2020, 09:12 AM   #39
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New problem!!!! The pilot bearing must have gotten hot too because it literally fell apart and now the outer race is adhered to the i.d. of the crank. Just a thin layer if metal but I am boogering the inner surface of the crank bad!! Having to use hammer and chisel because all other methods didn't work. Anybody got any ideas before I have to replace or rebushing my crank??!!

I started with a mini pry tool. The needles and cage fell out. Then I stopped and rented a pil8t remover. Anything/everything to grav is now flat and smooth. Grease method isn't an option either. Using chisel now. Thinking about using my mig welder to make very small arcs to see if can get the band to roll up. It is split completely in half on the top side, but I can't roll it chisels. Very worried!!!
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Old October 9th, 2020, 11:29 PM   #40
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Got it out. Not as much damage as I thought once it came out . I had to use a CNC burr bit to cut through in a couple spots then chisel it out. Just got it all back together. Hurricane Delta missed us to the west, so I'm gonna do a few mechanical checks in the morning and head over to Biloxi for Cruising the Coast. Hopefully I am done with this thread. I appreciate everybody that helped me get through it.
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