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air idle control motor issue ug!

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air idle control motor issue ug!
Old May 11th, 2009, 12:46 PM   #1
 
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air idle control motor issue ug!

I have a 99 RT10 Twin Turbo, and have gone thru 3 air idle control motor's THIS YEAR , has anyone else had this problem? wondering if there is an upgrade, i dont know why i keep killing these things...
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Old May 11th, 2009, 01:38 PM   #2
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What would actually destroy an idle air sensor? Heat? Vibration? I can't see any tuning issues damaging an IAC.... For it to need 3 replacements, I wonder if the problem lies around the IAC and it's not the IAC itself?
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Old May 11th, 2009, 01:56 PM   #3
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Carbon buildup is a common failure of IAC's also. You could have a IAC wiring issue problem also, not neccecarily the valve

Last edited by Ricketts; May 11th, 2009 at 02:03 PM.
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Old May 11th, 2009, 01:58 PM   #4
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yea, just clean them out, I have to clean mine once a year.
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Old May 11th, 2009, 03:20 PM   #5
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Mike (99RT10TT), I emailed you this, but will post it here for tech too...

We did the twin kit setup on this car. We didn't route the atmosphere side of the idle control valve back into the intake tubes like factory...we just capped it off with a small K&N filter. Under boost, there is pressure on the intake side of the valve and probably puts a load on the stepper motor or gear or whatever is inside it regulating air and "closing" under power. That's probably what wears out and fails inside the valve.

Routing the other side of this valve (where the K&N is at) back into the intake tubes(ahead of the throttleboies) would show equal pressure on both sides under boost, thus equalizing the load on the valve. That should remedy the problem while still allowing the idle valve to idle the car correctly.

-Matt.
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Old May 11th, 2009, 03:24 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99RT10TT View Post
I have a 99 RT10 Twin Turbo, and have gone thru 3 air idle control motor's THIS YEAR , has anyone else had this problem? wondering if there is an upgrade, i dont know why i keep killing these things...
Very strange. I have only ever seen one of those have a problem and it was on a NA car.
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Old May 11th, 2009, 03:43 PM   #7
 
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Thanks for everyones comments, and thanks Matt, we'll give that a whirl, and see if we can stop killing these damn things

-Mike
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Old May 11th, 2009, 04:49 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coupe View Post
Mike (99RT10TT), I emailed you this, but will post it here for tech too...

We did the twin kit setup on this car. We didn't route the atmosphere side of the idle control valve back into the intake tubes like factory...we just capped it off with a small K&N filter. Under boost, there is pressure on the intake side of the valve and probably puts a load on the stepper motor or gear or whatever is inside it regulating air and "closing" under power. That's probably what wears out and fails inside the valve.

Routing the other side of this valve (where the K&N is at) back into the intake tubes(ahead of the throttle bodies) would show equal pressure on both sides under boost, thus equalizing the load on the valve. That should remedy the problem while still allowing the idle valve to idle the car correctly.

-Matt.
that is how I have mine routed and most boosted cars are this way, I have never had and issue other than carbon build up and that is easily cleaned.
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Old May 11th, 2009, 05:13 PM   #9
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Just curious but what symptoms does the car have when the IAC goes out?
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Old May 11th, 2009, 05:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Snake View Post
Just curious but what symptoms does the car have when the IAC goes out?
i doenst IAC right anymore.
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Old May 11th, 2009, 06:01 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99RT10TT View Post
Thanks for everyones comments, and thanks Matt, we'll give that a whirl, and see if we can stop killing these damn things

-Mike
What is your engine management? If the IAC is moving to a stalled position, and the controller keeps driving it, it will kill it. Maybe your idle values need to be reset by your tuner.
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Old May 11th, 2009, 08:09 PM   #12
 
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Red Snake - I can tell when the IAC motor goes out because the boost just slams in at a certain RPM when its not working, normally the boost will ease in as i give it gas, but when its not working it will get up to about 3500+ rpms or so, (i cant remember exactly,) and just hit at once, and throw me back...

Monzsta - The shop that TT'd my car for me used "Split Second" from what I remember its a piggyback fuel and timing signal controller that works with the stock computer...
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Old May 11th, 2009, 09:16 PM   #13
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Pictures of the TT system????????????????
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Old May 12th, 2009, 11:14 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99 RT/10
Pictures of the TT system????????????????
It's the black RT/10 you saw at Montgomery Motorsports Park at the track-rental last year. (Wasn't that you in the red RT/10?) I drove it down to fine-tune some highway drivability.

We started with one of those "ebay" twin turbo kits, since 99RT10TT got it for almost nothing. The intercooler was actually the best fitting item in the kit, but none of the piping was remotely close so we cut it up for use with some other materials and made the best of it. Sold the cheapo-chinese turbos and built some 61mm Garrett-based units (our primary work is building turbochargers). Drilled and tapped intake to become a "return-style" system, added 60# side-feed injectors, triple-pumps in the tank, and a Split Second piggy-back fuel/timing controller. Not a whole lot to look at since everything is under the car, but I think 99RT10TT would agree it all came together pretty well.

Here's a couple shots:












Last edited by coupe; May 12th, 2009 at 12:30 PM.
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Old May 12th, 2009, 12:39 PM   #15
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Ah, I thought that car looked familiar. Have you gotten any dyno runs or 1/4 mile runs on it yet? What size side feeds injectors did you go with? A buddy of mine could use a set. Are you guys going up to th eDragon drive at the end of the month in Tenn.?
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Old May 12th, 2009, 12:48 PM   #16
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Have someone scan the IAC counts at idle. If the throttle bodies aren't synced, or out of adjustment or you have a vacuum leak, the pcm can't control the idle and may be killing the motors in an attempt. The stepper counts should be around 50 IIRC.
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Old May 12th, 2009, 01:15 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99 RT/10
Ah, I thought that car looked familiar. Have you gotten any dyno runs or 1/4 mile runs on it yet? What size side feeds injectors did you go with? A buddy of mine could use a set. Are you guys going up to th eDragon drive at the end of the month in Tenn.?
I was in Wears Valley (and did the Dragon) last month in a friend's Z06, but this Viper is in Iowa...belongs to my friend and the original poster 99RT10TT.

Injectors are 60lb/hr. Pretty sure we got them from Sean @ Roe. The combo did a safe 746rwhp and 745rwtq on a dynojet at 13psi boost (my laptop died so we called it quits). Probably has 800+ in it with a couple clicks of the boost controller (and some racegas)...but 746 felt pretty good to me. We didn't open the engine other than modifying the intake manifold for return-fuel setup and adding a fitting in each valvecover for oil-returns from the turbo-scavenge pumps.


What did you end up doing with your red RT/10? I noticed the big power numbers so you must've changed something!

-Matt.
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Old May 12th, 2009, 01:42 PM   #18
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Just a touch more nitrous.................................

Great numbers for the build, still a stock block too?
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Old May 12th, 2009, 02:36 PM   #19
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A common problem with standalone's is people miss set the parking of the IACV after the car is turned off. If it parks out of speck it can damage the valve. It looks like you have the stock ECU but it could be due to a similar issue.
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Old May 12th, 2009, 03:00 PM   #20
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A common problem with standalone's is people miss set the parking of the IACV after the car is turned off. If it parks out of speck it can damage the valve. It looks like you have the stock ECU but it could be due to a similar issue.
Agreed...but this "Split second" is just a signal interceptor and doesn't change anything like idle control, cold enrichment, etc... all those parameters stay stock. This thing just intercepts crank signal and MAP sensor (has its own on-board MAP sensor) and "fools" the computer into a new fuel and timing curve based on the MAP sensor. Basically a stock computer and behavior until boost comes in.
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