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Viper Noob here... first mods for light track duty?

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Viper Noob here... first mods for light track duty?
Old June 18th, 2020, 02:33 PM   #1
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Viper Noob here... first mods for light track duty?

Long time Corvette guy...
Recently bought a Gen2 viper.
Has upgraded wheels with good tires... stock otherwise.

I will use it for mainly leisure/enjoyment (not going ot be daily driver) and also light track days... Tire Rack track night in America kind of stuff... just to get out there and have fun, but not push the car beyond like 80% capability.

What are some of the first upgrades people do that make sense?

First for common issues, reliability... if there are any? I seem to see P/S pulley and bracket mentioned a lot.

Then performance:
I assume most people do cat-back exhaust system... which I will do for sure.
High flow cats help?
the dual cone K&N intake?
Are the handheld tuners common/recomended? Seems like ROE claims +25hp/tq on their handheld for relatively cheap.

I was thinking of doing these three for some extra power and noise, but not go much beyond this. No Cam or anything.

Do coilovers help much? I see BC makes an affordable set. but if the ride isn't going to be much better than the stock setup, then no point.

open to any facts/opinions
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Old June 18th, 2020, 03:10 PM   #2
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The FIRST thing you do is spend money on the best brake fluid you can afford. Carefully learn how much of a lap you can drive without your foot on the brake pedal so they have time to cool between applications.

Next, you get a high quality tire gauge and IR gun to tune your tire pressures and a notepad to meticulously record temps across the face of the tires and pressure gain with temperature.

K&N flat panel filters and smooth tubes are best bang for buck HP.

Get all the track time you can afford.

THEN you start adding go-fast goodies.
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Old June 18th, 2020, 03:34 PM   #3
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what year is your gen2? heads up on water pump issues on the 2001's.
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Old June 18th, 2020, 04:03 PM   #4
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Old June 18th, 2020, 05:08 PM   #5
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It's a 98 model
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Old June 18th, 2020, 05:12 PM   #6
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What Dean said. I only use Castrol SRF. I used other shit and didn't like any of them.

PS bracket and pulley and replace the high pressure hose with new. I lost a pulley at the track. I've also sprung a leak in the hose at the track. Those are expensive days to give up when a simple and affordable upgrade would have kept me on the track.

I did the same upgrades on my street Viper.

There is a diff drain plug upgrade that I do on all my vehicles. Well worth it IMO. And the fill plug for the diff and tranny are the same threads, so I got an AN fitting and attached a long clear plastic hose to it. Makes filling much, much easier than any other ways of doing it.
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Old June 18th, 2020, 08:01 PM   #7
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okay that is helpful. so just do the PS bracket and pulley and be done with it... can you explain the diff drain plug?
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Old June 18th, 2020, 08:11 PM   #8
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just so I'm clear...
RoeRacing "BILLET ALUMINUM POWER STEERING BRACKET 92-02 VIPER & TAPER LOCK PULLEY FOR 96-02 GTS & RT/10"


$221 for the bracket and the pulley... this is what I want?

Is there a better option, and/or the same options but cheaper from elsewhere?
RoeRacing is the only Viper company that I know of
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Old June 18th, 2020, 08:23 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jriley9922 View Post
just so I'm clear...
RoeRacing "BILLET ALUMINUM POWER STEERING BRACKET 92-02 VIPER & TAPER LOCK PULLEY FOR 96-02 GTS & RT/10"


$221 for the bracket and the pulley... this is what I want?

Is there a better option, and/or the same options but cheaper from elsewhere?
RoeRacing is the only Viper company that I know of

https://www.ipsco.org/Viper.htm
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Old June 19th, 2020, 05:47 AM   #10
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okay that is helpful. so just do the PS bracket and pulley and be done with it... can you explain the diff drain plug?
ipsco or roe. Both are good. But also change the high pressure hose. It is close to the header and gets brittle and will crack.

There is a writeup about the diff drain plug somewhere here or on the Viper club site. I think I started with a small plug in case I screwed up, 1/8 pipe threads I think. You need a tap and the correct tap drill size. Remember - pipe thread tap, not regular tap. Take the diff cover off, locate were to drill the hole, drill then tap. I suggest tap a bit then screw the plug in to see how far it goes, then tap, screw, tap, screw until you reach the point where you want it to be.
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Old June 19th, 2020, 10:33 AM   #11
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Am I wrong here or shouldn't the first real mod (not preventative like fluid and the PS stuff) be a bigger brake set-up? Maybe my 98 is messed up but it stops like shit compared to what I think a car of this caliber should be able to do.

I know I've been looking at the kit where you put your front calipers on the rear and use a G3+ caliper on the front. And I don't track my car but when some jackass pulls out in front of me without looking or caring I want to be able to stop before ramming them in the back. Already happened more than once which almost ended in a total Viper and this is while going the speed limit.
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Old June 19th, 2020, 11:25 AM   #12
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Am I wrong here or shouldn't the first real mod (not preventative like fluid and the PS stuff) be a bigger brake set-up? Maybe my 98 is messed up but it stops like shit compared to what I think a car of this caliber should be able to do.

I know I've been looking at the kit where you put your front calipers on the rear and use a G3+ caliper on the front. And I don't track my car but when some jackass pulls out in front of me without looking or caring I want to be able to stop before ramming them in the back. Already happened more than once which almost ended in a total Viper and this is while going the speed limit.

Just doing Tom's 40mm breaks help,($600), but.......

have a set of G3 calipers and rotors for sale.....
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Old June 19th, 2020, 11:46 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by 85vett View Post
Am I wrong here or shouldn't the first real mod (not preventative like fluid and the PS stuff) be a bigger brake set-up? Maybe my 98 is messed up but it stops like shit compared to what I think a car of this caliber should be able to do.

I know I've been looking at the kit where you put your front calipers on the rear and use a G3+ caliper on the front. And I don't track my car but when some jackass pulls out in front of me without looking or caring I want to be able to stop before ramming them in the back. Already happened more than once which almost ended in a total Viper and this is while going the speed limit.
I would experiment with pads first or go with Tom's rear calipers. Bigger brakes are beneficial for keeping cool at the track. No need for keeping cool on the street unless you rob banks for a living.
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Old June 19th, 2020, 12:14 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99RT10>S View Post
Just doing Tom's 40mm breaks help,($600), but.......

have a set of G3 calipers and rotors for sale.....
What's required to install gen3 brake setup on a gen2 RT-10?
It already has Gen3 wheels, so clearance shouldn't be an issue.
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Old June 19th, 2020, 12:22 PM   #15
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Are the long tube 'cold air' intakes good?
Or no real difference from teh much cheaper option of just getting some high flow K&N drop in filters?
+ on the VIPAIR cold air device?
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Old June 19th, 2020, 01:37 PM   #16
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Quote:
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What's required to install gen3 brake setup on a gen2 RT-10?
It already has Gen3 wheels, so clearance shouldn't be an issue.
Front Gen3+ calipers, Pads and rotors and the IPSCO mounting kit. You will also want the emergency brake kit as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jriley9922 View Post
Are the long tube 'cold air' intakes good?
Or no real difference from teh much cheaper option of just getting some high flow K&N drop in filters?
+ on the VIPAIR cold air device?
https://jmbperformance.com/product/v...d-air-setup-4/
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Old June 19th, 2020, 01:44 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck 98 RT10 View Post
I would experiment with pads first or go with Tom's rear calipers. Bigger brakes are beneficial for keeping cool at the track. No need for keeping cool on the street unless you rob banks for a living.
I did the StopTech rotors and pads on my car. Really didn't notice much of any real improvement.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 99RT10>S View Post
Just doing Tom's 40mm breaks help,($600), but.......

have a set of G3 calipers and rotors for sale.....
I'll diffidently let you know if I go the G3 route. Letting the bank account recoup after the most recent fiasco with the cars suspension.
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Old June 19th, 2020, 04:59 PM   #18
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The only brake upgrades you need for a predominately street driven Viper is pads and fluid. About the only time you'll find them somewhat lacking is during extended lapping sessions on a road course. I've run literally thousands of track miles at a lot of tracks including some real He-Man venues with 1-piece rotors with lots of trophies and low lap times.

Yeah, the 2 piece rotors look neat-o, but totally unnecessary unless you are tracking. Just be realistic that without ABS, you can't stop as well as most cars with it. It's a G1-2 Viper simple fact of life.
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Last edited by GTS Dean; June 19th, 2020 at 05:05 PM.
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Old June 19th, 2020, 06:18 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jriley9922 View Post
just so I'm clear...
RoeRacing "BILLET ALUMINUM POWER STEERING BRACKET 92-02 VIPER & TAPER LOCK PULLEY FOR 96-02 GTS & RT/10"


$221 for the bracket and the pulley... this is what I want?

Is there a better option, and/or the same options but cheaper from elsewhere?
RoeRacing is the only Viper company that I know of


I have seen a detailed post that reported that an inexpensive steel pulley replacement bought from rockauto fit perfectly. Cardone part number SP31647. This is a fairly new offering. At one time the billet aluminum was the only alternative to the plastic OEM pulley. Way back when, Roe Racing offered both the billet pulley and a steel pulley option; but that steel pulley required using some bracket spacers to compensate for a different offset. (I bought and installed their steel pulley because I didn't see any advantage to spending x times as much for the billet pulley.)

Last edited by jslimm; June 19th, 2020 at 06:24 PM.
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Old June 19th, 2020, 06:42 PM   #20
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Crap. I have it all wrong.

First things I would suggest:

Well done on new tires.

A good car not motorcycle helmet.

Pull the fuse for the air bags on track. It is cheaper if you smack and they hit a helmet hard.

Fire extinguisher under your legs.

Coaching. great coaching.

Competition belts.

Tow hook front and back so when, not if, you get towed in they don't hurt the car.

Hans device for your competition belts and your helmet so you don't win the Dale Earnhardt SR. award.

Now if you want to go much faster than the guy who buys faster equipment, upgrade the driver, not the car. Driving schools and coaching stay with you long after you sell the car.

Oh, and the pulley and hoses and power steering cap and fluids.

A great driver can crash doing everything right if he hits oil on the track so safety equipment is your best investment.

Now the sneakiest upgrade is lighter wheels. Every pound of unsprung weight is like 8 lbs off the chassis.
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