Listen, I get it, there are a billion threads on coilovers. I'm asking anyway...are the MCS coilovers worth the extra money over BC coilovers? 99% street driving, occasional HDPE (less than 1 / year). I'm interested in performance (ride quality, handling precision, overall stability, etc...). I don't really care all that much about lowering the ride height.
You won't get into double-adjustable Penskes for less than about $700 per corner. I'm running highly custom-valved 3-ways that cost over $4k 19 years ago.
MCS is a very good alternative to Penske with a lot of installations on frequently tracked Vipers.
BC has got a very flexible design that fits a surprising number of applications without having to do a lot of mix&match of components. A lot of Viper owners run them and I don't think anybody has had a bad thing to say about them.
For your intended application, I would recommend the BC without reservation.
96 GTS - some exhaust, brake and handling mods.
I appreciate the feedback so far. I’ve read bad things about BC in other forums, and generally good things about BCs on viper forums. I keep reading ‘you get what you pay for’ when it comes to coilovers making me think there is some drastically noticeable difference between BCs and the next level in the $3k range. I’ve not experienced the performance of any other shocks other than the stock konis so I’m unable to wrap my head around possible differences. Good to hear more positive feedback for the BCs in this kind of usage.
I put 30k miles on my BC's, ran down new exotics in the canyons, daily drove the car, tracked it. Nothing can touch them for the dollar. If you're frequently tracking the car and want the most consistency, bump to swift springs or go with a more track oriented coilover (MCS). BC does have 2-way coilovers with external reservoirs available as well.
Have one, didn't consult it yet re bushing pre-load. I had new control arm bushings put on about 2 months ago and didn't notice any ride height differences (i.e. wheel gap differences), although I wasn't really looking for it either until I put the BCs on. The reason I went for BCs to begin with was I was feeling scary rear end yaw after the new bushings were put in on severe highway bumps. I went back to the shop a few times to check over the work and make sure the alignment was right / everything torqued down correctly. After it was confirmed everything was torqued down right and alignment hadnt shifted, my next suspicion was that the shocks were starting to go bad, hence BCs.
I had assumed the shop would have preloaded and fully loaded the control arm bushings correctly as its a common thing, not a viper specific thing. Definitely possible that there was a lapse in judgment on their part.
Either way I'm going back to get new tires installed, and will have an alignment done at that time. I'm going to ask them to de-torque and re-torque the bolts with the control arms compressed just to check this off the list.
You won't need to worry about the front shocks or the rear uppers since you don't have bushings in them any longer. The upper wishbones are definitely a problem for getting at. What I did was pull the tires and put jackstands on slip plates under the wheel studs (nuts on backwards). This allows upper wishbone access.
Torquing the bushings at a ballasted condition improves rebound control. One of the main reasons for using the factory height checking bars is that regardless of tire sidewall height, all readings are done relative to the inner wheel lips across the car. If you're in full compression in the worst of conditions with blown tires, your frame should never hit the pavement causing loss of steering control.
Yeah I did something similar when torquing the shock bolts. I used the jack under the lower control arm and slow raised until just after the point the car lifted a bit from the nearest jack stand. Then did all my torquing. My dumdum self didn't have a 23mm socket or whatever the the hell size for the upper control arm bolts, so I moved on and delayed bushing "re-load" to the forthcoming alignment.
P.s. 140 ft-lbs on the rear lower shock bolt was a real MF'er.
Well, it wasn't an issue with incorrect preload on the bushings as far as I could tell. I spent the afternoon unloading and retorquing the rear control arm bushings. Before retorquing I compressed the control arm assembly back to ride height. No change in rear ride height difference after going for a drive and letting the shocks settle.
Guessing that was my last move and time to increase the length the left rear shock to compensate for that 3/8” height difference.
The car is now riding at even height right to left. However, I had to adjust the drivers rear shock collar length (Defining as distance between ride height locking collar to spring perch collar) to be ~7/8” longer than the passenger rear.
The main issue was that, at an equal shock collar length, the drivers rear wheel gap was ~3/8” lower, and the drivers side sill was ~1/4” lower than passenger side.
Yesterday I reset the load on my rear control arm bushings following feedback that incorrect preload could be a contributor. There was no change in ride difference after this.
Last night I reset all my spring preloads to 2mm just to make sure I wasn't dealing with confounding measurements in shock collar length. With consistent preload settings and accurate + equal shock collar length, the drivers rear still ran low.
So today, out of other ideas, I just went ahead and adjusted the rears independently until the car was riding at the same height from driver to passenger side, with ~ 3/8” rake front to back. With the driver rear shock collar length 7/8” longer than passenger rear, my rear wheel well gap, rear side sill height, and rear frame rail to ground height are now equal.
So...WTF... I don’t get it. Also, I’m hoping one of you can tell me if this is a problematic or dangerous set up. Ultimately there is full shock threading visible through the lower sight holes on both rear shocks.
Last edited by Mrama004; July 13th, 2020 at 04:47 AM.
Sometimes you do have to work diagonally to get things evened out. Are you certain that the lower adjustable cups are all set to the same length? Except for the BCs, I there isn't another shock I know of with that extra variable in the equation. Also, not very likely but possible, is that you may have a mis-matched spring in the set.
by diagonal do you mean, for example, adjust front left to modify right rear?
re: cups, I didnt count the threads during initial set up. Reason I did not do that is that I measured shock length from top bolt eye to bottom bolt eye and the length was the same. My assumption was that if the total shock length was the same then the bottom cups would have been set close enough that I'd be in the window of fine tuning.
Re: spring set, my thought was that if the code on the springs match, the springs should be the same rates right?
I get the feeling that I need to suck it up, pull the lower rear shock bolts, undo the lower cups, and match the thread count before re-installing and setting ride height.
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