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Got a gremlin in my 94’RT/Roadster

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Got a gremlin in my 94’RT/Roadster
Old May 26th, 2020, 06:28 AM   #1
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Got a gremlin in my 94’RT/Roadster

Hey there fellas my name is Steve, I’m brand new to the site and still fairly new to the Ownership of my Gen 1 Roadster.... my car is a 94’ RT/10 Roadster with a little over 50K Miles. the only bolt on thing I’ve done was install a duel CAI so far. Upon my purchase as I started to drive her more often to familiarize myself with the car.... she Sounded nice, ran out nice then started to go into limp mode or simply shutting off. Didn’t matter what gear, RPM, or speed but mostly seemed to do it after getting warmer or hard acceleration... this sometimes comes with some sputtering and backfire before or as it shuts off... I could restart and it would drive fine for a bit then same thing happens, for starters I jumped on a few random forums and listened in on some very similar issues other guys were trying to figure out.... so with what I read I started in this order replacing basic parts and sensors... first I replaced the battery then both downstream O2 sensors, no luck.... then was pulling a code 14 map sensors voltage to high/low, so replaced the map sensor no luck... found some areas of wear in the oem air intake baffle tube and discovered the Hood was pushing the tube down onto the drive pulleys/belt. Belt and pullys undamaged, so I ordered the aftermarket duel intake setup and installed. I fixed the rubbing on the pully but issue still there... I then replaced all plugs with NGK plugs, and No 4 NGK Silicon wires... note: plugs I pulled out were highly covered in carbon and just plain ugly for the majority of them at least... took off the air intake tubes and did the throttle body cleaning procedures and sprayed about a half can of throttle body cleaner through both TB’s also replaced the PCV valve. THEN It ran awesome with the acception of a rough or irratic idle not rite away but mostly once the car warmed up. Still ran great! No more shutting off or backfires or even sounding like it wants to turn off. I took it on a few road trips and drove her for a couple more months without any issues. Put her to bed for the winter and didn’t think about putting a battery charger or tender on the battery as it sat for a few months. Went to fire her up one day and the battery was dead. So I got the battery tested and it was telling auto parts store it was still good. So I recharged it up got it to hold a consistent charge and installed it... drove it about a half dozen times without issue... then one day I was navigating through a roundabout and when I went to apply the throttle it was air... it had turned off on me for the 1st time since the previous summer. Upon reading more posts on these cars I saw a guy had identical issues with a 93’ so same generation as what I have. His solution was to replace both the camshaft positioning and crankshaft positioning sensors. I checked to see what codes It was throwing by using the ignition on off cycle since I don’t have an obd1 scanner and nobody local shop wise has this type of plug to get a scan done with the acception of my local Dodge dealership and the wait is rediculously long and they want a ton of money just to run a scan. So the ignition cycle kicks out 12, and 14 codes, I believe the 12 code is battery or power related and figured it might have triggered the 14 map code again... so at $200 each I decided to start with the crankshaft positioning sensor and swapped out with a new one. I’m not sure if the relearn process is correct of approximately 4-6 cold to warm start up and drive with the A/C or defrost unit turned on to relearn the pcm with the replaced parts? So I disconnected the positive battery cable and let sit for an hour or so to clear stored codes.... I drove the car upon replacing the crankshaft positioning sensor and it did it again, but as it dies briefly shows the battery icon followed by the engine light.... upon trying to restart it acts like it doesn’t wanna stay on and shuts off immediately. So I disconnected the battery positive cable to clear out again and drove it and after it warmed up around 190• it did it again only throwing the 12 code this time without the 14 code... am I not clearing out my PCM properly or running the relearn process correctly??? Should I mess with replacing the camshaft positioning sensor?? Or that along with the Throttle body positioning sensors?? Or could this be Alternator malfunction or maybe the battery running voltage is simply too low now after it drained down and I recharged it?? Maybe someone could give me a better or more accurate direction or steps to locate this annoying gremlin in my ride?? I love this car and really wanna figure it out as I feel like I’ve had it over a year and still have yet to really enjoy it... I have lots of visual ideas and personal ideas to make the car more my style and looks on the interior and outside body but can’t seem to get it running the way it should be! If anyone out there had issues early on in owning one of these earlier years of vipers then I know you feel me! Any suggestions or experienced ideas would be more than appreciated! Thanks for reading my message I look forward to reading what you guys think! Thanks again...

Steve from Burbank, Wa....
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Old May 26th, 2020, 07:49 AM   #2
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Asd
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Old May 26th, 2020, 09:05 AM   #3
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Is that one big long sentence? My eyes got blurry immediately.
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Old May 26th, 2020, 10:20 AM   #4
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ASD or perhaps fuel pump. RT's require a jigsaw to cut an access hole in the trunk closeout panel for pump access.

'92-95 were OBD-I. I think the Gen 1s used blinky-codes on the message center for diagnostic trouble codes. Early Gen 2s did as well.

Procedure: Key in ... on/off, on/off, on/off, on. Have a piece of paper and pencil handy to write the number of red blinks for first and second digits of stored codes. Codes will increment lowest to highest. I think when it's done you will get either 5 or 6 flashes indicating end of data. It doesn't hurt to do it twice to make sure you got them all.

You may also have cats coming apart and randomly obstructing the exhaust.
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Old June 6th, 2020, 01:35 PM   #5
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???
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Old June 6th, 2020, 01:45 PM   #6
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I have already pulled the code and it gives me a 12 each time and the Diagnostic code book says these are all 4 digit codes so it it telling me that it’s a 0012 or 1200??? Or even 0120?
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Old June 6th, 2020, 04:57 PM   #7
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Your car is OBD1 and therefore not a 4 digit code but a 2 digit. Code 12 retrieved by cycling the key means the battery was disconnected within the last 50 key cycles. As Dean stated code 55 is "end of message". There should be a dedicated diagnostic port somewhere under the hood as other Chrysler vehicles of that era and a dedicated scan tool will retrieve those codes and allow real time viewing of important data stream from sensors that include but not limited to the following: TPS, MAP, CTS, IAT, CRANK/CAM, VSS, IAC.
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Old June 6th, 2020, 05:56 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teebizzle32 View Post
I have already pulled the code and it gives me a 12 each time..?
More pieces to the puzzle!

Everything I find on code 12:

"This code shows up when power to the computer has been interrupted as when the computer has been reset by disconnecting the battery"

"Direct Battery input to PCM disconnected within last 50 ignition key-on cycles. Normal if battery has been disconnected, otherwise check battery power and ground connections."

"Computer lost power recently. Nothing to worry about if you disconnected your battery for some reason."


"Battery or power line recently disconnected - This code is normal if the electrical system has been worked on or the battery has recently been disconnected. It will be removed after 50 ignition switch on/off cycles."

"Low system voltage, bad battery or battery terminals - If the system recently had a power drop (due to a dead battery or bad alternator), this code will appear. If the battery terminals are bad and the engine was jumped, this code will appear."

"Bad connection or wiring - Check the wiring and connections between the battery, power module, and logic module (or SMEC). Check all fusible links and power connectors to the battery. Clean and regrease any corroded connectors with dielectric grease and repair any shorts"

So, I'd start with your battery and work your way to the PDC. Good luck man.

Also, don't forget your original post said:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Teebizzle32 View Post
Or could this be Alternator malfunction or maybe the battery running voltage is simply too low now after it drained down and I recharged it??
Maybe you already figured it.
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