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Couple questions for our seasoned viper owners

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Couple questions for our seasoned viper owners
Old May 5th, 2020, 03:40 PM   #1
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Couple questions for our seasoned viper owners

Howdy all! It has been just shy of two months owning my GTS, and just over 3000 miles travelled (From Texas to Louisiana, and then back home to Colorado). I am currently in a mandated 14 day quarantine, so I won't be able to work on her, but I would like to bounce some questions off y'all so I can get some sort of a game plan going for when I return to the world.

1. I had perfect function of my windows when I bought it and for the entire first month of ownership. One day, I put the windows down while I was driving (no problem), and then raised them (no problem) when I parked at a Lowes. When I got back on the road, my driver's side window would not roll down. I can hear the motor "click" when I press the button, and can see the window shift but not move up or down. From what I read, it might not be a bum regulator but just a plastic tab broken? I didn't want to screw with anything or take the door apart because I would much prefer my windows stuck up than down when driving across the country.

2. I had a strange noise start in the rear. It was a fairly steady tone around 400Hz, and couldn't have been the differential because it made the noise while parked. Maybe exhaust? It came after a long day of driving, and was gone the next morning.

3. From what I understand, the AC in these cars isn't the best. So I shouldn't be worried about my AC system choosing when it wants to blow cold at random, correct?

I will be doing the whole laundry list of maintenance once I am out of quarantine, but I'd love to hear whether I should be gearing up for more?

Thanks!
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Old May 5th, 2020, 04:10 PM   #2
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1. Remove door panel, inspect power window motor and corresponding assembly. Good fucking luck with THAT.

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Originally Posted by xxmetal View Post
3. From what I understand, the AC in these cars isn't the best. So I shouldn't be worried about my AC system choosing when it wants to blow cold at random, correct?
There are a number of reasons why your AC is intermittent. Assuming it's charged and holding charge (no rotted orings, pinhole leaks in piping a fat cat in blower box, etc)

Including but not limited to:

The power train control module (PCM) monitors the AC compressor discharge on the high side pressure through the air conditioning pressure transducer. The transducer supplies an input to the PCM. The PCM engauges the AC compressor clutch if pressure is sufficient for AC systems operation.

When the PCM senses a wide open throttle condition through the throttle body position sensor (TPS) it de-energizes the AC compressor clutch relay. This disables the air conditioning system.

When coolant temp reaches 235F, the power to the AC compressor clutch is turned off.
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Last edited by 8.0L>1.8T; May 5th, 2020 at 04:19 PM. Reason: Fat-fingered every last fucking key...
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Old May 5th, 2020, 04:13 PM   #3
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2. I had a strange noise start in the rear. It was a fairly steady tone around 400Hz, and couldn't have been the differential because it made the noise while parked. Maybe exhaust? It came after a long day of driving, and was gone the next morning.
The only thing back there that's gonna be hissing would be your battery???

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Originally Posted by xxmetal View Post
Howdy all!
....Thanks!
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Last edited by 8.0L>1.8T; May 5th, 2020 at 04:19 PM. Reason: Day-drinking but non-abrasive!!!
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Old May 6th, 2020, 08:48 AM   #4
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Old May 6th, 2020, 11:41 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8.0L>1.8T View Post
1. Remove door panel, inspect power window motor and corresponding assembly. Good fucking luck with THAT.



There are a number of reasons why your AC is intermittent. Assuming it's charged and holding charge (no rotted orings, pinhole leaks in piping a fat cat in blower box, etc)

Including but not limited to:

The power train control module (PCM) monitors the AC compressor discharge on the high side pressure through the air conditioning pressure transducer. The transducer supplies an input to the PCM. The PCM engauges the AC compressor clutch if pressure is sufficient for AC systems operation.

When the PCM senses a wide open throttle condition through the throttle body position sensor (TPS) it de-energizes the AC compressor clutch relay. This disables the air conditioning system.

When coolant temp reaches 235F, the power to the AC compressor clutch is turned off.

I took both window regulator assemblies out of the doors and repaired/replaced them. I bought two of the plastic clips for a Plymouth mini-van that were the same as the ones in the Viper. The whole process took me about 1/2 a day per door and the windows were still working perfectly 2 years later when I sold the car. As for the A/C---there is a check valve in the line from the pass side rear of the intake manifold that can fail, causing the A/C to shift from blowing cold air from the A/C vents to blowing hot air from the defroster. I replaced this check valve and my A/C worked better under heavy throttle. I replaced the compressor (due to a leak), filter/drier and all the O-rings on my "02, and the A/C worked fine.
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Old May 6th, 2020, 03:34 PM   #6
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Anybody know where to get the regulator motor? There is a Viper "friendly" site that repairs the whole assembly but last time I checked they charged $900. Ouch. The motor is less than $100. I found a site a while back that listed a bunch of motors but can't find them now.
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Old May 6th, 2020, 03:55 PM   #7
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Anybody know where to get the regulator motor? There is a Viper "friendly" site that repairs the whole assembly but last time I checked they charged $900. Ouch. The motor is less than $100. I found a site a while back that listed a bunch of motors but can't find them now.

These dudes take your regulator motor and refurbish for less at least.

For information consolidation:
OEM parts #: 04763282/04763283
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Old May 6th, 2020, 07:25 PM   #8
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I got one on exchange from a little hole in the wall auto electric shop on Grapevine highway, south of north loop 820 in Ft. Worth. Can't remember the name though. Pretty sure I found him on the web. That was just the motor.

Last edited by AJ02; May 6th, 2020 at 07:30 PM.
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Old May 6th, 2020, 09:00 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8.0L>1.8T View Post
These dudes take your regulator motor and refurbish for less at least.

For information consolidation:
OEM parts #: 04763282/04763283
Great. No name, no website, no phone. But thanks for the pic.
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Old May 7th, 2020, 06:09 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck 98 RT10 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8.0L>1.8T View Post
These dudes take your regulator motor and refurbish for less at least.

For information consolidation:
OEM parts #: 04763282/04763283
Great. No name, no website, no phone. But thanks for the pic.
Ball buster!
Enter the part number into eBay search field and profit!
This isn't Sears!
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Old May 7th, 2020, 08:54 AM   #11
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Old May 8th, 2020, 08:17 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8.0L>1.8T View Post
The only thing back there that's gonna be hissing would be your battery???
Hopefully not, good things never come from batteries making noise!

Quote:
Originally Posted by AJ02 View Post
I took both window regulator assemblies out of the doors and repaired/replaced them. I bought two of the plastic clips for a Plymouth mini-van that were the same as the ones in the Viper. The whole process took me about 1/2 a day per door and the windows were still working perfectly 2 years later when I sold the car. As for the A/C---there is a check valve in the line from the pass side rear of the intake manifold that can fail, causing the A/C to shift from blowing cold air from the A/C vents to blowing hot air from the defroster. I replaced this check valve and my A/C worked better under heavy throttle. I replaced the compressor (due to a leak), filter/drier and all the O-rings on my "02, and the A/C worked fine.
I'm going to try doing the same--I can't imagine that that motor failed immediately after running strong 20 minutes previously. It's gotta be a mechanical issue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 8.0L>1.8T View Post
The power train control module (PCM) monitors the AC compressor discharge on the high side pressure through the air conditioning pressure transducer. The transducer supplies an input to the PCM. The PCM engauges the AC compressor clutch if pressure is sufficient for AC systems operation.

When the PCM senses a wide open throttle condition through the throttle body position sensor (TPS) it de-energizes the AC compressor clutch relay. This disables the air conditioning system.

When coolant temp reaches 235F, the power to the AC compressor clutch is turned off.
I'm thinking I might have a bad coolant temp sensor? A couple times in the morning, I was having an issue where the cold engine didn't want to hold idle. If the PCM thinks the engine is warmer than it is, that would explain both the idle and the AC issues. But then again, my temp gauge has always shown normal operating temperatures, so maybe not. . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by 8.0L>1.8T View Post
Welcome to hell.
Never knew hell could be this friendly!

Thanks all for your insight. Hopefully she doesn't take too much time to get sorted
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Old May 8th, 2020, 08:56 PM   #13
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Quote:
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When the PCM senses a wide open throttle condition through the throttle body position sensor (TPS) it de-energizes the AC compressor clutch relay. This disables the air conditioning system.
Are you quoting from a manual on that? I have read people post that; but, I haven't read that anyone has verified it and I can't find it in the service manual. In any event, I would think that a person would never notice any effect on the AC air temperature unless maybe they were racing at WOT and were using the AC.

However, I have had the issue where the vacuum check valve was not good enough to keep the blend door in the AC position at heavy throttle and low vacuum. I replaced the one in the line behind the radio with one with a larger reservoir as someone suggested and fixed my issue of instantaneous loss of AC cold air on 2002 GTS
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Old May 8th, 2020, 09:41 PM   #14
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When the PCM senses a wide open throttle condition through the throttle body position sensor (TPS) it de-energizes the AC compressor clutch relay. This disables the air conditioning system.
Are you quoting from a manual on that
Practically verbatim.
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Old May 10th, 2020, 11:35 AM   #15
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AC stuff- This might be real basic but I wouldn't be surprised if a few new owners don't realize this, or see this mentioned in the owners manual. AC only works when the selector knob is turned to the left of the off setting. AC will not turn on for anything to the right of the off setting.

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